Okay, I ended up printing with the “Christmas tree” green, and it looks nice.
The filament needs drying, as it has absorbed moisture over the years, so that is why it has that surface finish.
A member had a problem, his light was turning on and doing funky things when he screwed the head on?
It happened 2-3 times with the XP-L HI I have and I traced it back to the nubin….well actually the rubber boot and nubin…
I modified it with a mechanical switch… no probs…
The first 3 of my lights the driver pocket had a very tight fit, zero slop, the stainless steel retainer had clearance and it was never an issue with retainer ring making contact with the signal trace?
. Then I took one of the Nichia’s apart……and found I could re-create the problem of the light turning ON simply by screwing the head back on due to the amount of slop in the driver pocket to driver board…
I champhered the back of the retaining ring to clear the signal trace…
That looks like the driver is probably not rotated correctly, which throws off the centering. It may have just needed to be rotated to align the flat edge.
No, it’s in the pocket, that is the problem (with this one) the driver is too small for the pocket. This shows how much I can rotate the driver in the pocket.
I don’t suppose you can hold the driver in a centered position while tightening the retaining ring? I’ve had to do that sometimes, especially on the tail PCB. Once it’s tightened in position though, it should stay pretty well.
Oh it’s back together, centered and working fine, trashed the nichia’s and put some NW V2’s in it and trits. The pipe fitter at work LOVES IT! Wants another…. :+1:
I just inverted the position of the rubber cap + nubin below the metal cap and it started being more silent while clicking.
It didn’t fully overcome the somewhat delayed turn OFF after clicking but it also helped on that.
If so, yes, that is what I did
I flipped the silicon cap and the nubbin is now touching the metal cap.
I found out that, at least on mine, the curve (dome) on the silicon cap needed to be pushed down to make pressure more evenly to avoid noise due to a single pressure point.
After trying several “normal” silicon buttons, with and without the original below them, it was that solution what helped.
Later I may try to take a photo if needed, as I don’t have the FW3A with me atm!