@raccoon city
What happend exactly when you tried to boot. When did it crash?
If the driver tool intalled inapropiate ahci drivers the system would not boot anymore. But you could have changed the option to use ahci in the bios. If this was the problem your system would have started again. And then you could have installed the correct driver again.
Would be helpfull to know more about the problem to help.
maybe 20 years ago it was a good idea to update drivers, but nowadays if you update drivers you WILL get more problems.
That is because software development, and especially driver development has reached an all time low. Everyone is now a programmer and incompetence has plagued this industry.
I’m still on Windows 7, and Yosemite on Mac and I will use them as long as I can do my job. Newer versions are terrible
I had a problem a few months ago with Windows 10 on my gaming PC. Intermittent crashes had become frequent and it had started crashing several times a day.
When I went to reinstall Windows, I noticed an option to reinstall without erasing my data. I used this and then reinstalled. The computer now works perfectly with no crashes.
The problem was the razor copperhead gaming mouse I’d been using. The latest available drivers were 10+ years old and were incompatible with Windows 10. Getting a newer gaming mouse with Windows 10 compatible drivers and installing that in conjunction with system reinstall fixed the problem.
At least I was able to beat xp into submission that it wouldn’t piss me off on an ongoing regular basis. In fact, xp was almost tolerable.
Got forced almost literally at gunpoint at work to switch to 7. Then shortly after to 10.
Now I know what Hell is like.
7 and especially 10 are ugly, slow, cumbersome at best, and if you’re a visually-oriented monkey who uses the mouse for everything including scrolling a page up/down, then you might be able to tolerate it, but if you’re like me and hardly ever touch the mouse/trackpad/whatever and use the keyboard for pretty much everything, it Just Doesn’t Work.
Try the settings pages, where options require scrolling the page up/down. TRY to do it via keyboard (arrows, tab, etc.). No, you need the mouse to find the f’n light-gray on even-lighter-gray scrollbar to drag it up/down.
I think 10 was written by Hitler from beyond the grave just to get his final revenge on the world.
I was just gonna suggest something like that. With Ubuntu you can actually repartition the drive into 2 separate ones, copy raw data from partition 1 to 2, then do the install on partition 1.
I had to try to pull important files from a laptop (not mine) whose drive was getting worse and worse (in hardware), and I did manage to pull files off but onto an external drive instead.
Learn powershell! You can do everything with a keyboard from there.
If that’s not your cup of tea, Windows 10 has lots of keyboard shortcuts, and at least for now you can get to the old control panel (just search from the start menu for “control panel”).
I had to change the way I work in the Windows 10 GUI, and I utilize search for most things. Just Winkey & start typing, then arrow key to what you are looking for and press enter.
The above method is less frustrating than navigating the menus manually.
Did you tried a system restore? Guess you don't, had it disabled or whatever. Panic mode is no good.
To install Windows 10 I recommend downloading a Windows 10 ISO (via some ;-) source), burning it to DVD or creating a USB drive bootable, and installing. You do not need a Windows license key right away, you have 6 months to set it (and Windows won't stop working either). Valid license keys are pretty cheap.
Of course, installing Windows 7 and then upgrading to Windows 10 may work. But honestly, that is a lot more work. And all that time spent is worth money. I wouldn't chose that path, listen to a wise advice from an expert in the matter. O:)
In my experience a fresh install from a Windows 10 ISO will upgrade and work seamlessly without excessive effort.
horror stories like this should spur action
I D/Led Macrium Reflect Free and cloned my C to a bootable partition on an underutilized SSD resting in my ’puter.
Also to a fast USB drive in my safe
I admit, even after several revisions and complete overhauls, the new settings - whatever the hell they call it - is complete bullshit. I fear they’ll kill off control panel entirely one day. Pretty sure it’s coming.
Where Windows 10 was previously installed and activated, you can usually just install Windows 10 from the latest ISO (Microsoft has an official and free way to do this, the “”Media Creation Tool”“:https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO) and it will activate automatically. On computers that came with Windows 7, you can try the key from the sticker on your computer, or say ”I don’t have a key” and pick the appropriate version. Windows 7 pro > Windows 10 pro, Windows 7 home/home basic/home premium/etc > Windows 10 home.
When you get logged in, it should be activated. (Assuming it was previously activated after an upgrade from Windows 7)
I always separate my Main Drive into at least 2 Partitions C-D— and so on —- Windows Programs on C — Data on D —-
Always yes Always have a Image File available —- even if it’s not current you can use it as a starting point instead of starting over—- Lately after I build a machine I’ve been cloning my entire drive and then use the D partition as my Data Backup drive —- several of my machines let you boot from any drive you have installed