I ended up removing the “nubbin” for now. Should have the same effect as your method. A bit more travel and higher actuation force. Still not as satisfyingly clicky as the original one.
I also replaced the nubbin with a shorter profile one, made from cutting up a piece of cured epoxy putty. I tried it without any nubbin, but the switch didn’t work at all.
Hey everyone, got a question, let’s say I want change the max temp for the light, once I set the temp that I want do I let the light go through all other menus or do I just turn the light off.
Considering how easy the switch accidentally presses in the original XPL-HI version, this isn’t a step in the right direction. This is not a light meant for pocket carry, IMO. Unless you lock it out, but then it’s a PITA to use.
I originally thought “muggle mode” was kind of a dumb feature, since “muggles” won’t be buying this light anyway. But it makes sense, if you do choose to carry it in pocket.
So far I have had no issues with it turning on in my pocket. I don’t clip it to my pocket but just carry it loose (no other items there). I have a nichea from when they were first released. Not sure if it’s an original or tweaked switch. Reasonable travel and pressure to activate. A little gritty at times with an edge push. I might do the tape someone mentioned to get rid of the grit but really, I don’t really notice it unless I’m trying to notice it.
Maybe that’s the reason. I carried mine clipped in my pocket last night, for the first time. (I wanted a warm white light.) Activated 3 times by accident, within 1 hour when I was outside. Luckily I had it set to a low level, and it didn’t “press and hold”. Yuck, that’s way too easy. I’ve carried a Zebralight the same way for years, and never had an accidental activation.
Carrying it loosely might help. I might try that, but I’m not sure I trust it. Muggle mode seems like it cripples the light, and lock-out is not for my usage.
20mm OD (outer diameter), but it can be 19 or 18 if that’s all you can find. It will stretch. 3/4” OD is fine.
Thickness is about 1.5mm or 1/16”. This means ID (inner diameter) is 17mm or 21/32”.
It would seem so. There’s a couple of prototype photo floating around, one solid titanium and another titanium with a copper head/heatsink area. Nothing official has been confirmed though, that I’ve seen.
The only photo of a titanium FW3A is titanium with copper head.
There aren’t any photos of an all titanium FW3A. I think you’re thinking of photos a couple people have made of modded polished aluminum FW3As with the anodizing stripped.