One of my new FW3A’s ramped on it’s own out of the box, from what I understand this happened to a few lights. I removed the head loosened and then tightened the tail till it stopped then replaced the battery and head, problem was solved. No issues after that, one I gifted needed to have the battery charged and I assume my father in law loosened the tail first so he needed to follow the above process with the head removal and tail tightening as it stopped operating correctly but it was solved easily.
I dunno if that helps? Otherwise my lights worked faultlessly.
Meanwhile, somewhere in China:
Would anyone not want this?
That is really cool! I'd probably go for something different than a bat, but it looks great.
Whoa, whoever did that works fast! And they say you can’t rush art…
Personally, I think the bat is ugly, but another animal or design could be impressive. 
@ tatasal … That looks amazing!! Fantastic workmanship…. 
Yeah, it’s fantastic…it’s done by some flashaholic in China…no other word if there would be some available for the rest of us yet.
The fall might have shorted the inner tube making the driver think the button was pressed down continuously.
The tail pcb looks interesting. I’m not sure why it looks burnt, though. That would be due to high current flowing through that trace.
Here is a theory. The fall might have made the battery push hard against the inner tube. The inner tube might have shorted against the outer tube. In this situation the battery current might be forced to flow through that burnt looking switch trace to power the light PLUS the current flowing through the inner tube also triggers the driver to think the switch is being constantly pressed down.
Toykeeper has seen the results of a shorted inner tube. Hopefully she can comment. I can’t remember her description well enough.
Inspect the inner tube for any breaks in the anodized finish (outer part of inner tube).
Edit: Toykeeper said that if the inner tube gets shorted, the light acts like the button is pressed.
ok after closer inspection, there is no doubt the small trace had melted to the tail spring, why it happened after a small fall off the night table possibly landing on the tail to cause the short to the trace with the spring.I did check the inner tube, but dont see any scratches or flaws to allow it to short to the body.
( as i mentioned here in the FW3A troubleshooting thread, i will do a quick mod/fix to prevent the spring from shorting to that trace. FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ - #618 by DBSAR
I was about to order one of these… but I’ve dropped my zebralight HUNDREDS of times and never had an issue.
Are you scared? 
Did you loose the feeling in your hands? I am starting too, I hope it don’t get that bad… :person_facepalming:
My wife runs around the house slightly unscrewing all of my tail caps. 2 years ago today(not joking) my zebralight(sc600w iv plus) caught my cotton shorts pocket on fire.
I’m more worried about her finding out that my new light caught the bed sheets on fire
Kawi: I use my flashlight a lot and in hard to reach places. I use it a few hours a day. I’m also clumsy and drop it off my lap at least twice a week. But my hands are getting destroyed from doing repairs on small devices
Kawi’s hands are now made up of more metal shavings than tissue
I believe that Japanese/Chinese hands are smaller, better able to reach inside their miniature engineered wonders.
One reason I had my sinus surgery by a Japanese doctor and my proctologist is Dr No.
This is very concerning. I just checked my spring. The end of the spring is about the 2 o’clock position from the FW3A stamp. The largest gap is about 11 o’clock. I can just barely get a sheet of paper thru the spring at the trace. All three solder pads appear soldered ok. I’ve never soldered before. Do you think it is OK? I have had zilch problems with the light. I have never dropped it though. I do use FT batteries.
I would not be concerned. There doesn’t seem a chance the spring could touch the trace. You have a nice gap and the spring is properly soldered.
Seems a piece of kapton tape over that trace would have been cheap insurance. I may desolder my spring and do just that when mine comes in. I like my lights to be as bulletproof as possible. My Olight S1 has been through a lot and refuses to stop working.
Is the head of this light easily replaceable?
Like, if I want a different led, can I just swap the head content, or do I need to unglue and solder stuff?