New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

So it’s like Beryllium Copper :smiley:

As long as I don’t saw or sand BeCu, I’ll be fine.

waiting for 16mm to be in stock again.
thanks.

If I were to solder 4 nichia 119’s onto an VR21SP4 would they be spaced correctly for a Carclo quad or because of how the LED’s will center on the pads will the led to optic cone spacing be wrong?

No, they won’t fit Carclo quad. But you can do it with E21A. They still produce great beam although placed offset from the optic center

[Clemence]

Clemence, have you considered making 3x3 E21A MCPCBs? Would be expensive but compatible with 7070 optics (aside from low height) and producing a lot of high quality light. :slight_smile:

Yes, this is in my to do list since last year

[Clemence]

:slight_smile:

4x4 E21A would be better :smiley:

Clemence, would taking pre-orders for future products in your store help with speeding up development time? If so, I would gladly pay ahead for some 3x3 E21A along with Carclo triple compatible e21a boards.

Just a thought. Excited for what your doing! Keep up the good work! :smiley: :+1:

Jared, it will need hundreds of pre-orders to fuel a single MCPCB model.

[Clemence]

Please make a E21A pcb for the BLF Lantern!

Max current? voltage? Diameter?

[Clemence]

I asked the designer of it here.

Total current is 4.9A, so 0.6125A per LED (two strings of four LEDs are in parallel, so there needs to be a bit a tolerance for the max current per LED). Generelly it's very low powered.

I bet quite a few people might be interested in this. The interest list for the lantern alrrady has over 2000 entries!

For lantern with no directional beam needed, I suggest 757 LEDs. Depending on the space available you can populate lots of them to get very high efficiency at much cheaper price. The options are.
——-
A.
NF2W757GV3F1:

- R8000: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K

- R9050: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
Note: $0,1/pc. Very efficient at extremely cheap price
——-
B.
NF2L757GF1:

- R95: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K
NF2W757GF1:

- R95: 5000K
Note: $0,3/pc. Priced very close to Optisolis, CRI slightly higher than R9080 unlike Optisolis, they can be mixed freely
——-
C.
NF2L757GF1 (Optisolis):

- R95+: 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K
NF2W757GF1 (Optisolis):

- R95+: 5000K, 6500K
Note: $0,5/pc. CC and WW can’t be mixed in parallel. Currently, the highest possible CRI for LED
——-
D.
NVSLE21AT

- R9080: 2000K, 2200K, 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 4500K, 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
NVSWE21AT

  • R9080: 5000K, 5700K, 6500K
    Note: $1/pc. The most efficient and expensive compared to A ,B, and C. Light quality slightly lower than B

[Clemence]

It should be noted, for this purpose, that it’s max 2.34A (7*7135) per channel and that is with all solder bridges connected. The factory default will likely be even less:

You can add/remove the solder bridges to enable/disable current. He could even add more LEDs to reduce current per LED as long as it’s symmetrical.

No point doing A) since it will come with Samsung LH351D 90CRI 3000K and 5000K

C) wont be a problem I guess cause it has 2 separate channels

To increase current : 7135 piggyback

I would be interested in a new board but only if it is E21A because the E21A comes has the famous 9080 2000k option that can mimic candle light. Since the other options only go down to 2700K, it doesn’t add much more to the stock 3000K to 5000K LH351D 90CRI, despite the Optisolis has superior color rendering.

Exactly! The 2000K 90CRI+ with tint on BBL (!!!) variant is the main reason. 6500K for the other end of the spectrum makes it "perfect" and the tint more reddish.

Cost will be high either way because of shipping, the board etc.

Just be careful, this has positive and negative reversed on the silk screen. It is common positive but common negative.