FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

Thanks Teacher . I’m working on pictures. :smiley: The E6800 is very strong yet the washer can be removed without any damage to the finish if the switch needs to be removed or you want to try something different. Trick is to apply very small amount with a toothpick then stick the washer down and let it sit overnight. I use this glue for many different tasks. Makes great strain relief for wires or power tool cords. Epoxy dries hard and strong and has it’s uses too but E6800 can be molded into flexible, vibration resistant , waterproof apps.
All the Goop Glues are basically the same product.

My pleasure pennzy, glad to do it. It took me a while to get the hang of pictures too. :person_facepalming: . :smiley:
Once you get the basics though it is pretty easy.

Thanks for the additional info on the E6800 also, it sounds like some handy stuff in/for many different applications. I gotta get some & try it out. :+1:

Does the use of glow discs, glow powders or tapes in the emitter/lens cavity affect the beam tint of the actual light? Also, do tritium tubes in the optics affect the beam tint?

I doubt that the minimal emission of the trits and/or glow gaskets would make a significant difference to the powerful output of the LED emitters unless they were used in a lower power mode. Technically they would add color to the light but I’ve never noticed any difference. I guess it’s similar to adding a teaspoon of sugar to a gallon of water.

Does a red noctigon mcpcb make lights rosy? I wish it did so people would stop complaining about green :slight_smile:

Haha… or people could just order some rosy 219b and be done with it :stuck_out_tongue:

Can you source some 2700K and 3000K 219B? I bought some 3000K 219B 9080 from LEDRISE.eu and they tested true 9080 but with a greenish duv of 0.0028 even on high output and measures about 3400K. I would love to try some rosy WW 219B.

Thanks azhu for your post. It is appreciated and I would expect this to be the case but I do not know. I am looking for someone that might have more definitive trials or tests with green or any other color. I do not have any HCRI SST-20 containing lights which would seem to me to be a good before/after scenario at low levels especially since the new one’s Neal has sourced appear upon first report to have no green even at low levels. I have trit containing light but they are all in the sides and tail. The nice thing about the new lights with auxiliary lights is that they are programmed to turn off when the main LED’s are powered on. I have 6 of these type lighrts and love them and they are a non issue as far as tint change. And, yes, I have lots and lots of 219B lights and love that tint. Nichia just doesn’t make them anymore (they would, but need a minimum 3,000 reel order) (Yes I contacted them, just ask TK) so the search goes on for an equal or better tint producing emitter and how they are affected by the glow product options that are being put in the lens area.

Thank you — good to know. I always keep a tube of Goop shoe-goo around for various long term repairs that can be reversed. I’d gotten into the habit of manual lock-out (just a slight twist to the head), but if the perimeter ring works well to reduce accidental activation, that saves one less thing on the mind when dealing with a pocketed FW3A. :+1:

Very nice work, tatasal! :beer:

I think if there are no other objects in your pocket , you will not get accidental activations. At least that has been my experience so far. You could stack the washers for added protection but it might not look as nice. With one , it looks like it came that way.

Kaidomain Lens (22.7mm x 2.0mm):
1290lux (245.1lm)

Yxy: 252.814646 0.368024 0.364769
CCT = 4277K (Duv –0.0019)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.9 [ R9 = 84.7 ]
R1 = 93.9 R2 = 92.5 R3 = 88.8 R4 = 92.2 R5 = 92.6 R6 = 87.7 R7 = 93.3
R8 = 93.9 R9 = 84.7 R10 = 80.9 R11 = 92.1 R12 = 72.3 R13 = 93.0 R14 = 93.8

Same lux as UCL? Is that real or a copy-paste error?

There might be a slight difference the meter was set to auto and it showed 129x10 but since I took the measurement that way originally I did the same this time.

That’s interesting result. :slight_smile:

I actually sell 219b if you need some. I have sw35, sw40, and sw45k. PM me.

PM sent.

The idea of using the Fu Bat is Brilliant, I love the work you did, and the light looks fantastic!

Batman would be proud :laughing:

Oh no, I didn’t do it, some Chinese flashaholic did! :beer: