What? Yes its yellow but I find the tint to be excellent. Not as nice as a more rosy warm Cree LED but the higher CRI makes it much better for me. And you really have to directly compare it to notice the difference in tint. Unlike the red color objects that really pops-up with the better CRI.
It goes very well with the ‘’chinese golden dragon’’ body color.
I have the same LEDs in the D4S and there is more yellow while the D4v2 is more orange with much less green tint. (maybe its from the AR coating or a different tint bin)
To my eyes the green tint is just barely noticeable, even on a white wall. Unless you directly compare them.
This light is almost perfect and its fun to play with the different modes and multicolor LEDs.
I directly compare it to other 3000k sst20’s in tir optics. And these have way less rosiness. If you have good 3000k sst20 there is a decent amount of rosiness, almost like 7a xpl hi. The sst20s from kaidomain for instance look much better than these.
Oh no that’s not good to hear. I have the D4S with SST-20 3000K and it is not as rosy as the SST-20 3000K from Kaidomain and Nightwatch NS22 but it wasn’t super yellow.
I just bought a D4v2 and asked Hank to give me a mixed tint 2x3000K + 2x4000K to achieve a more rosy tint. Maybe I should have just went with full 4x4000K since I read the 4000K tint is on the rosy side.
I have a 2700K SSt20 (below BBL line) from Kaidomain in a brass Lumintop IYP365 and I don’t find it rosy but far more orange with no green, its more pleasing and relaxing to the eyes but the light is even warmer so less ‘’bright’’ to use during daytime.
Its really nitpicking (also we don’t see colors the same way because we have different eyes). I like all of them unless its ugly cool white LEDs.
I think the difference is only from the optic. A more flood light will be smoother and warmer.
You should really try the 2700k version. If you want blue there is a 7500k version!
Yes I have a non ar-coated glass but I don’t even bother to replace it. The D4S is a bigger D4 meant for outdoor use, you can’t even notice the green on grass.
I didn’t expect him to just say OK so easily too considering such customization adds to work and confusion during assembly. Let’s see if I actually get what I requested.
Can you still get the old D4? Because I really don’t like Anduril. I really hate it on my FW3A but I am too lazy to buy stuff necessary to flash it. I also don’t like aux light in there. Serves 0 purpose for my needs, adds to production cost, weight and provides an unnecessary point of failure. Should really be optional.
I welcome all the other changes though, good job there.
Unfortunately it looks like the original D4 is out of stock, and I really doubt it will become available again. People may be selling their original D4s if they’re buying V2s though, so keep an eye out for them I guess.
I quite like Andúril myself, as it has all the same basic features as Ramping IOS, with a load of extra goodies and customization hidden out of the way. The aux lights can be completely disabled too, though I understand your frustration at having to pay extra for them if you will never use them.
If you look at the Andúril UI flowchart, it shows you how to enter the ramp (or step) config mode. I set my ramp to go all the way from the lowest to the highest level, and my stepped levels to have three steps:
Floor = level 25 (~20 lumens)
Ceiling = level 105 (~1045 lumens)
Steps = 3
This means that the middle level is 65, which is fully regulated and quite efficient. (~150 lumens)
Totally impressed that anyone could actually feel the extra weight of a small PCB (which has more holes than surface area) and 8 SMD auxiliary lights. Those extra few grams are killer!
Oops, I still need to do that. I keep getting distracted.
It depends on the emitter type and tint, and the top half of the ramp also depends on the battery type, age, and charge level. Any numbers posted will be rough estimates at best.
The short version is:
Levels from 1 to 65 have regulated power ranging from 2 mA to 350 mA. The brightness goes from ~0.2 lm to ~130 lm. Runtimes go from 2 months to 8 hours.
Levels 66 to 150 also use a direct drive circuit so the power and brightness are less constant. Power use goes from 350 mA to ~20 A. Brightness goes from ~130 lm to ~4000 lm. Runtimes go from 8 hours to ~10 minutes.
In-between, it follows an “x^3” sort of curve, so a small change in brightness often makes a large difference in runtime. Going one step brighter than necessary may not look like much by eye, but it can cut runtime in half.
Mostly, it makes the ramp and the steps look like a fairly linear progression… on a perceptual scale. The actual numbers aren’t meant to be important. It’s meant to be easy to get the appropriate brightness for each task without having to care what the actual numbers are. If runtime is a concern, use the lowest sufficient brightness for each task, to get the highest runtime.
OTOH, I find I only need to recharge the battery every couple months even when I use the light a lot. So I mostly don’t have to care about runtime. YMMV though.