I have some 16340 vapcells in the mail, but not at hand yet. I was told they are not protected. Does the driver offer LVP or do we just need to be careful?
I am going to use 1206 1W resistors, so I will go with one. That should eliminate the touching the anuminum cap issue.
I am thinking of replacing the other parts with the lower resistance ones, and then regulate by selecting the correct resistor, for my taste in Amps. Isn’t that what you are implying would be the best way?
Exactly, it makes the driver more efficient either way and should be more reliable with the higher rated components… Less resistance, less loss in the components and more current to the led.
I was wondering if you might be able to help me. I posted this (below) elsewhere and was directed to you here and it looks like you may know the answer to my problem. I am guessing that my problem may be the 4.7uH inductor. Does it sound like it is just that or might it also be the component (in your first picture) at the bottom with the glob on it because on mine that looks like it is also an inductor and it may be damaged because I can see windings exposed and there looks like the top of it may have a small piece broken off.
Sunwayman V11R repair?
I have contacted Sunwayman already about this, I filled out a contact form and I am waiting for them (in China) to reply.
I have had a V11R for a few years and really like it but just the other night it stopped working and it appears to be the V10R V1.4 control board inside the flashlight, the parts on that board that react to the variable intensity ring being moved seem to have disintegrated. There were parts floating around in that part of the flashlight. They appeared to be magnetic. I was wondering if is it possible to get a schematic and parts list so I can try and find the broken parts and replace them myself. There are 2 devices on the board that look like electro magnets and they seem to be physically broken. I assume that they interact with the magnetic ring to change the intensity of the light.
I am sure that I have dropped this light a few times but the latest drop seemed to break those little parts inside the light. I have a used one on its way to me now but I would like to fix this one since I think it is something that will break again.
I just now saw your post. Sorry I didn’t get back here sooner.
I’ll try to help if I can, I think I understand the output side of the driver but all the components for controlling the rotary position sensor I never tried to figure out because it only controls the amount of output in relation to the magnets positioning to the 316BCG, not the peak output.
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The second smaller coil on the bottom in the my first pic, I think is just part of a boost circuit to supply enough voltage to the 316BCG. The 316BCG from the datasheet requires 4.5v min to operate. If it’s bad then there will be no light. I replaced one that had that same problem.
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There are two magnets glued in the control ring that move with the control ring that changes in position in relation to the north and south axis of the 316BCG. As they move the 316BCG pics that movement up and relays the position to a mcu which in turn outputs so much current according to that position, which I think is programmed in the mcu firmware. The jetbeam rotary lights seem to have the same circuit but offer a strobe mode and sos with a double turn to high and a triple turn to high for sos. Pretty sure thats just being picked up in firmware just like a double tap for high in Narsil with a e-switch.
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I would check the two magnets in the control ring and the small coil if you think it’s not connected. If you can reconnect it even if you can just solder the winding wire to the pads to see if it will work might help. Then you could find a replacement coil and reflow the new one on.
The magnets also have a north and south, if you get them out of sink or in the wrong way the position sensor will not work correctly. Takes a little experimenting to figure out which way they go. There tiny too, so be careful where you open the light up and try not to lose them.
Just shoot me a PM if you need any further help.
You would need only one of these 22uf instead of using two 10uf paralleled, just swap the original out. Should work just as good, two paralleled that microa recommended will work also. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c2012x5r1a226k125ab/tdk
Thx guys! Cart has been updated.
Gotta question regarding V11R’s…they are XML reflector lights, so how is the beam with XPG size emitters? What’s the size of the MCPCB?
Just to know what to expect when i get “11”
The bean looks to me decent with the LH351D 3535 emitter.
The MCPCB size is 12mm. This is the only place that I found at the time that had them. https://ogazent.com/store/leds/xp-g2-led-on-12mm-copper-star/
Relow the xp-g2 off and use the 3535 emitter of your choice. The xp-g2 1A would be a little to much on the cool side for me 6500k.
If you have had the head apart, I would check to make sure the magnets are installed with the correct polarity.
If you had them out it takes a little trial and error to figure out which way they go back in for correct operation.
Once I figure out the correct arrangement, I usually add a drop of UV glue and blast them with the Convoy S2 UV light.
I dont have a V10A or a V20A but they are both rotary lights that appear to be the same rotary controlled… When I tested the driver it would work down to .7v if I remember correctly. So since 1 is a AA light and the other is a 2AA light and a rotary variable, I would say yes since both those fall in the boost/direct drive drivers range. The lumen output also looks to be about on par with both lights from the voltage input from my testing. I would say it’s probably the same driver.