Here’s the thing, the code is open source. So modify it the way you want and flash your own flashlights.
Strawman argument, I never “wanted Hank to sell a whole other product”. I asked if the old D4 was still available and stated that I don’t like some of the new changes.
And I also never said that “most customers don’t want Anduril”, not even remotely. Heck, I even highlighted that those are my personal needs only, in bold font.
My question has already been answered though so I thought I would go more into detail I have with Anduril. Not everyone. I.
But yeah instead of getting reasonable reply replies all I get is trash talk like “if you can write that wall of text you could reflash of light”. Okay then. Will keep my posts short and without explanations in the future. Or better just vanish again, because the amount of fanboyism not allowing for any criticism to exist here is over the top, as always.
+1
I guess I misinterpreted the point of your post then. Only the D4v2 will be available going forward. You sounded disappointed with that and I wanted to make it clear why it was the case.
Fortunately, the D4v2 has options to make it do that. Set the ramp ceiling to turbo, ramp up to turbo, and activate manual memory. One-time setup, never needs to be done again, and it’s easier than flashing firmware.
After doing that, 1 click turns the light on at turbo brightness, 1 click turns it off again, and … it sounds like that’s all you need.
Yeah I was about to suggest this. It requires a few minutes to configure the light to your needs, but you can set it up how you like and then never need to mess with it again.
If those programming keys become widely available at some point soon, it should be super easy to flash a different firmware onto the new D4 too. That way you can have it exactly as you want it with no compromises.
But doesn’t that still allow the user to ramp into different levels? It’s a partial solution, but it doesn’t appear to be the “single mode turbo” solution that the poster wants.
With Narsil, for example, a user can set the light into a “1 mode turbo” mode set, and disable moonlight. After that, it’s a single-mode light, full turbo, and nothing else. Perfect for throwers, IMO. Biscotti is also good for its single-mode turbo config.
Is there something that does that on Anduril?
Personally, not something I’d want on floody light, but if it’s put on a thrower, that would be very useful.
I agree , I think the original D4 firmware is better especially the thermal control.
I lost my original D4 and ordered a replacement, sold out.
So i ordered a D4V2, SST20s, 500k
Thoughts, the Aux LEDs wil be useful for finding the thing in my tent whilst camping
thermal config, eh?? how do you set that? wont it also change the current temperature settings, or mess those up ?
Tint, dont care too much as long as its not blue, or pink
Knurling, generally good, however on the tailcap there does appear to be a little mark two thirds towards the end which presents itself as a slight change in the surface finish two thirds of the way along, im guessing that its down to the knurling wheel, either where it feeds in, feeds out, or dwells before feeding along
now located the original D4 but it will be some time, at least 3 months before i can get to it
It hurt my brain to try and read your post.
This is how different requirements are. In my personal view Anduril is much better than NarsilM and I wish someone would be able to reprogram my Sofirn Q8 and my Sofirn SP36 from NarsilM to Anduril…
The FW3A is the first light since the last ten years I’ve bought that’s somewhere near to my good old Litefluxes - the best Light ever made since now!
EDIT: on intl-ooutdoor you can still buy the old one:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4ti-high-power-flashlight-p-927.html
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html
Another potential solution to having true single mode turbo: you can use the ramp config to set both the floor and ceiling to level 150. Or at least 149 and 150 if that suggestion wouldn’t work. Also, as Anúdril has both stepped and smooth ramping, you could set the stepped ramp to be turbo only, and then if you ever needed other output levels, just switch over to the smooth ramp mode instead.
I know whatever we suggest won’t be a solution that you like, but we are trying to provide some options to help you.
Just a heads up, both of those are sold out.
It’s great fun putting the BLF GT in momentary turbo mode… a bit like having a laser gun. 
TBH, I’m not really happy with the thermal control on any version of the D4. It heats up so fast that every algorithm I’ve tried ends up either taking too long or going too far… or both. It’s the main reason why I need to make a thermal simulator, so I can test changes quickly instead of spending days at a time just collecting results after each change.
There are only two thermal settings — sensor calibration and temperature limit. Changing one does not require changing the other.
In most versions, it’s a bit inconvenient to calibrate the sensor. However, it’s important to do so at least once, to allow the thermal regulation to work.
The method used on currently-shipping lights is: Either navigate to thermal config mode the long way (4 clicks at the 4th mode in the blinky group), or do 10 clicks from off to reach that mode directly. Then at the first prompt, click like 22 times to tell it the current temperature is 22 C. Then wait until it falls out of the config mode.
Just within the past week or so though, I finally added an auto-calibrate thingy. It’s part of a “factory reset” function. So in the future, lights will probably be easier to set up initially, and easier to get back to a sane state after changing settings. Basically just disconnect power, hold the button, reconnect power, and keep holding the button for a few seconds. It should get the calibration at least sort of close to accurate, and ensure that any weird settings are reverted back to default.
Ups. Didn’t saw that, thanks!
I see a market for both D4s. A cheaper basic model and a more expensive loaded version.
The only bit im struggling with is thermal config- set upper limit
thats probably what I like about it , I like to be the one that turns the brightness down when it’s getting too hot to handle rather than the torch panicking & turning it down in 10-15 seconds & having a dim light when I need a bright light , I can run turbo on my D4 for around a minute before I need to start turning it down but after a minute I don’t usually need it on anymore so it gets turned off & can cool down at its leisure ,it really annoyed me using the fw3a & only having 10 seconds of bright light before it over rules you ,it’s because of that ,that I see it as a useless edc torch , but I can see why it does it because the fw3a isn’t really man enough to handle a bit of heat. My d18 is awesome with its floody optics & glorious xplhi 6500k leds but is let down by the firmware using that agressive thermal throttling, that and the shiny bezel are the only 2 things that lets it down.
For that, take the number you want for its limit, subtract 30, and then click that many times at the second menu prompt.
In other words, if you want a limit of 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times. For 55 C, click 25 times.
It allows anything from 31 C to 70 C (88 F to 158 F).
The default is usually 45 C, which is a bit conservative. But it’s usually good for defaults to err on the side of safety.
Might have to take down that Chippendale photo. 