I lost my original D4 and ordered a replacement, sold out.
So i ordered a D4V2, SST20s, 500k
Thoughts, the Aux LEDs wil be useful for finding the thing in my tent whilst camping
thermal config, eh?? how do you set that? wont it also change the current temperature settings, or mess those up ?
Tint, dont care too much as long as its not blue, or pink
Knurling, generally good, however on the tailcap there does appear to be a little mark two thirds towards the end which presents itself as a slight change in the surface finish two thirds of the way along, im guessing that its down to the knurling wheel, either where it feeds in, feeds out, or dwells before feeding along
now located the original D4 but it will be some time, at least 3 months before i can get to it
This is how different requirements are. In my personal view Anduril is much better than NarsilM and I wish someone would be able to reprogram my Sofirn Q8 and my Sofirn SP36 from NarsilM to Anduril…
The FW3A is the first light since the last ten years I’ve bought that’s somewhere near to my good old Litefluxes - the best Light ever made since now!
Another potential solution to having true single mode turbo: you can use the ramp config to set both the floor and ceiling to level 150. Or at least 149 and 150 if that suggestion wouldn’t work. Also, as Anúdril has both stepped and smooth ramping, you could set the stepped ramp to be turbo only, and then if you ever needed other output levels, just switch over to the smooth ramp mode instead.
I know whatever we suggest won’t be a solution that you like, but we are trying to provide some options to help you.
It’s great fun putting the BLF GT in momentary turbo mode… a bit like having a laser gun.
TBH, I’m not really happy with the thermal control on any version of the D4. It heats up so fast that every algorithm I’ve tried ends up either taking too long or going too far… or both. It’s the main reason why I need to make a thermal simulator, so I can test changes quickly instead of spending days at a time just collecting results after each change.
There are only two thermal settings — sensor calibration and temperature limit. Changing one does not require changing the other.
In most versions, it’s a bit inconvenient to calibrate the sensor. However, it’s important to do so at least once, to allow the thermal regulation to work.
The method used on currently-shipping lights is: Either navigate to thermal config mode the long way (4 clicks at the 4th mode in the blinky group), or do 10 clicks from off to reach that mode directly. Then at the first prompt, click like 22 times to tell it the current temperature is 22 C. Then wait until it falls out of the config mode.
Just within the past week or so though, I finally added an auto-calibrate thingy. It’s part of a “factory reset” function. So in the future, lights will probably be easier to set up initially, and easier to get back to a sane state after changing settings. Basically just disconnect power, hold the button, reconnect power, and keep holding the button for a few seconds. It should get the calibration at least sort of close to accurate, and ensure that any weird settings are reverted back to default.
thats probably what I like about it , I like to be the one that turns the brightness down when it’s getting too hot to handle rather than the torch panicking & turning it down in 10-15 seconds & having a dim light when I need a bright light , I can run turbo on my D4 for around a minute before I need to start turning it down but after a minute I don’t usually need it on anymore so it gets turned off & can cool down at its leisure ,it really annoyed me using the fw3a & only having 10 seconds of bright light before it over rules you ,it’s because of that ,that I see it as a useless edc torch , but I can see why it does it because the fw3a isn’t really man enough to handle a bit of heat. My d18 is awesome with its floody optics & glorious xplhi 6500k leds but is let down by the firmware using that agressive thermal throttling, that and the shiny bezel are the only 2 things that lets it down.
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so, if I am understanding this correctly, default is 45C (which is 113F). Does that mean when the light reaches 113F it steps down? That seems hot to me, and that is conservative? If I’m wrong, appreciate cluing me in, thanks.
45C is also pretty tame even for the body temperature of the light. 50C is getting uncomfortable. 55C is too hot for me, but that probably requires an internal temperature of at least 60C.
I turn off temperature controls on my Astrolux S43, because Narsil is awful at temperature control. It’s usually blinking out an internal temperature of about 70C, when I shut it off due to it getting way too hot. I’m shutting it off with my fingertips at that point.
With copper heads, it feels way hotter at a given temperature. Probably because copper conducts heat out of the interior and into your fingers far better than aluminum.
I'm curious what happens if temp is programmed to 31C (88F), about the lowest it can be programmed.
I would think the output couldn't go much higher than about 120 lumens??
By coincidence, the new Convoy S21A is programmed to 55C max (not user adjustable). And yes, I noted it was too hot to comfortably to hold in my review.