I might be interested in an offer like that. I wouldnât mind having a go at swapping the emitters for some 219Bs and reflashing the firmware if I had a spare FW3A host.
See if you can get yourself a replacement first though, because something is definitely not right with the product you received.
CopperâŚ
With the lighting in this room the two others almost look like polished brass
FW3Cs are arriving? Sweeet!
Emitters? SST-20s? Tint?
FW3T stonewashed interest list: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/57471
If the shelf is Titanium then you might as well just remove the FET altogether. Makes even less sense than the current version we have 
Are all 3 copper or just the middle one?
Just got my FW3C today.
Unfortunately, I did not order the SST-20 model. I hadnât received my SST-20 aluminum FW3A at the time and didnât realize the SST-20 were going to be so good. Had I known I would have definitely purchased the SST-20 version.
Preliminary impression:
Aluminum Copper Aluminum
Itâs the Copper Glow cast upon the Polished Aluminum gives it a Brassy tintâŚthey did a most excellent job polishing this Copper lightâŚthere was still a touch of rouge left behind in the knurlâŚyou can see it on the sink top leftâŚ
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. This is two different lights, 1x FW3C and 1x FW3A.
My SST-20 FW3A arrived. The tint is fantastic and makes what I thought was a good looking SST-20 I had in another light look green at low levels. The switch however sounds a little crunchy if you press down on it in the middle. Regarding the edges of the switch the edge of one side is smooth and silent (how I think its supposed to be compared to the middle?) while the other side has a crunchy sound and doesnât always register a click. Pressing down in the middle of the switch always registered albeit not in a pleasant sounding/feeling way.
Are the curves across the beam or at different power levels?
All the default stepped power levels using a GA cell.
Wear gloves, wipe it down with pure lemon juice, rinse in hot water, wipe down with iso alcohol.
Wipe down with hard automotive paste wax, let dry for a few hours.
Wear gloves to remove wax and buff to a new sealed shine.
Stonewashed Ti looks cheap and ugly and ruins a damn fine material (except for heat transfer though).
Leave this bad idea to cheap knives manufacturers.
StonewashedGate!
This is your personal preference/opinion, which is fine. But it does not necessarily reflect a general consensus. People like raw, polished, stonewashed, & bead/sand blasted Titanium.
Personally, I like stonewashed & bead/sand blasted. It beautifies it & adds character as far as I am concerned.
⌠Many knife makers/manufacturers stonewash or bead/sand blast the Ti handles on their knives. CRK is a prime example, and his knives are not exactly cheap.
I just got my copper fw3c. Decided to change the 5a to sst-20. One of the legs of the new style optic is cut off shorter than the other The messed up thing is their is a small Phillip screw taking up the space for the missing portion of leg. Whoâs the genius that came up with this idea?
Thatâs not how itâs supposed to work. Sounds like yours was installed wrong.
The Phillips screw is designed to sit in divot drilled partway through the underside of the star. It is NOT supposed to sit in one of the holes for the legs. All 3 legs on my copper FW3C are fully intact.
What does pillip screw do? Whatâs it purpose?