TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Anduril is generally more aggressive with stepdowns than RampingOS AFAIK. Unless the settings are really goofed (like some Fireflies lights and FW3As were from the factory, but very easy to fix) something like this shouldn’t happen. I mean, if an FW3A modded to quad emitters can manage the heat without desoldering itself a light with the mass of the D4 shouldn’t either.

I dont want to have to go through the hassle of mailing the whole thing back, waiting, and waiting then maybe getting it fixed/replaced :frowning:

They usually wont ask you to send it back as long as you have it all documented.

I must say it’s a bit curious that one day you post about having trouble setting upper thermal limit and next day you managed to have a melt down. What exactly did you do at that point?

I don’t think that should matter.

My recollection is that it’s not possible to turn off the thermal protection in Anduril. You can set so it is less aggressive but it should still turn on and protect the electronics.

I much prefer the ramping ui ,& version 2 is a bit better ,I think anduril is a step backwards ,yeh you get the blinkies & all that but the main features of a good super bright light is spoilt by not allowing it to stay bright for long enough , my D4 will stay at its brightest & wont step down until it’s reach it’s specified temperature 70* in my case , but anduril will step down earlier than it’s suppose to , yes tk has modified it a bit but im Not about to spend more money on the same torch with an updated thermal control that probly isn’t much better , but I’m sure most people are happy with it.
I’d like to buy a new D4 but not if it has anduril FW.

If you don’t think that matters then you have never had to troubleshoot software. In a perfect world you are right.

If you wanted to overheat a light on purpose you could put the light in a freezer then run the thermal calibration and tell it it’s 30c to make the thermal regulation do nothing until it’s too late

After asking about it, I decided to leave it as it was, on default as I was still trying to get used to the UI, sometimes it didnt appear to respond to the button clicks.
I thought it could have been something I was doing wrong, aux leds would cut out, it wouldn’t turn on etc, as if it was stuck in lock out mode.

Then today is when I came back from work, and noticed the button off+ the loose wire.

In 3 weeks time I will be going away, was hoping to be able to make the most of this light.

What’s the return/repair process like (purchased from intl outdoor)

Hank is a good man. Contact him with photos of your light, etc. I would bet he will just send you a new head,even before he asks you to return the damaged one. After all, your light was brand new.

Actually it’s the opposite which is easier to do by mistake. Run turbo for a bit then the light thinks 55c is actually 23c now your light is off by over 30c. Set the ceiling to 70c cause “I like to set things on fire” and now you have a problem.

You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.

Remember that Lumintop is selling this to plenty of people that have never had a FET triple before.

How long does the free shipping to EU usually take?

Its been a while now

Don't know about the EU, but to Oregon, in the US . . .

Ordered June 20th

shipped June 29th

Currently at LAX (Los Angeles, California).

I checked your info and got 4PX Express off it as the carrier… then used 17Track.net to get to 4Px Express. Fund this:

2019-07-06 18:18
LAX, Released from customs: customs cleared.

2019-07-02 18:51
LAX, Shipment arrived at airport of destination country

…. so mine cleared Customs 2 days ago. Still nothing at USPS yet. But it’s close. Thanks for posting your info.

Yes, I think so. I sent Hank a 219 version with turbo limited to 75% power (PWM level 192/255).

That may be a little tricky on this model, given the amount of wires crammed in there, and the need for a pogo pin adapter for flashing.


I think someone was trying to imply that I would be sexually attracted to humans. Yuck. I’d rather cover my walls with pictures of ornate furniture.


That was just explained though. Different behavior for thermal response and momentary mode.

It’s okay to not like Anduril.


That’s very strange. An unsoldered wire is understandable, if there was a cold joint or a short or a MCPCB air gap or something… but the button is pretty bizarre. Those things are not easy to remove, even on purpose.

As for what to do, it sounds like your options have already been covered in other posts.

You’re probably correct.

However, calibrating the sensor is still important. And the t1634 seems to have somewhat different default calibration than t85. I set the firmware’s default to match the data sheet in both cases, but the readings I see on test units are a bit different.

On tiny85, I usually see default readings anywhere from ~15 C to ~40 C. But on tiny1634 I’ve only seen default readings ranging from 10 C to 12 C. So without calibration, the tiny85 would generally regulate down sooner and lower.

In the current build, which I think Emisar is using, I added a correction factor for tiny1634… but it’s only 5 C, which gets the default up to ~16 C for room temperature. I’d add more, but I don’t have a large enough sample size to say for sure whether this difference is real or if it’s just weird luck. Regardless, the worst case there shouldn’t be bad enough to cause anything like this. It effectively would just raise the limit to 55 C, the same level other lights use.

To help with this, and to help with some other things, I very recently added a factory reset function. It changes all settings back to default, and auto-calibrates the temperature sensor. That happened after D4V2 though.

I’ve had a reply re the fault, and its a return to manufacturer fir repair/replacement.
I’m going away in three weeks time, where I was intending to use it, so hope its sorted before then

I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that even if you crank up the thermal settings to 70C (or whatever the max is), the light will still be protected from destroying itself.

Now, I get that you can mess with the room temperature settings to defeat the thermal controls, but as long as you’re doing things “honestly”, nobody should design a light that will burn out its electronics.

Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

I dont want to pint any fingers but not everyone uses their lights in a responsible way

Do you think it will ever be possible for there to be titanium, and copper, d4 to be sale?

The picture shows a desoldered red lead. From this scenario can anything catastrophic happen (eg cell short) if this loose lead touches something on the board like one of the adjacent components or the screw?