TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Actually it’s the opposite which is easier to do by mistake. Run turbo for a bit then the light thinks 55c is actually 23c now your light is off by over 30c. Set the ceiling to 70c cause “I like to set things on fire” and now you have a problem.

You can set the thermal management to be much more lenient if you want. For the majority of people avoiding harm to themself or damage to the light is the right choice for a mass-market product.

Remember that Lumintop is selling this to plenty of people that have never had a FET triple before.

How long does the free shipping to EU usually take?

Its been a while now

Don't know about the EU, but to Oregon, in the US . . .

Ordered June 20th

shipped June 29th

Currently at LAX (Los Angeles, California).

I checked your info and got 4PX Express off it as the carrier… then used 17Track.net to get to 4Px Express. Fund this:

2019-07-06 18:18
LAX, Released from customs: customs cleared.

2019-07-02 18:51
LAX, Shipment arrived at airport of destination country

…. so mine cleared Customs 2 days ago. Still nothing at USPS yet. But it’s close. Thanks for posting your info.

Yes, I think so. I sent Hank a 219 version with turbo limited to 75% power (PWM level 192/255).

That may be a little tricky on this model, given the amount of wires crammed in there, and the need for a pogo pin adapter for flashing.


I think someone was trying to imply that I would be sexually attracted to humans. Yuck. I’d rather cover my walls with pictures of ornate furniture.


That was just explained though. Different behavior for thermal response and momentary mode.

It’s okay to not like Anduril.


That’s very strange. An unsoldered wire is understandable, if there was a cold joint or a short or a MCPCB air gap or something… but the button is pretty bizarre. Those things are not easy to remove, even on purpose.

As for what to do, it sounds like your options have already been covered in other posts.

You’re probably correct.

However, calibrating the sensor is still important. And the t1634 seems to have somewhat different default calibration than t85. I set the firmware’s default to match the data sheet in both cases, but the readings I see on test units are a bit different.

On tiny85, I usually see default readings anywhere from ~15 C to ~40 C. But on tiny1634 I’ve only seen default readings ranging from 10 C to 12 C. So without calibration, the tiny85 would generally regulate down sooner and lower.

In the current build, which I think Emisar is using, I added a correction factor for tiny1634… but it’s only 5 C, which gets the default up to ~16 C for room temperature. I’d add more, but I don’t have a large enough sample size to say for sure whether this difference is real or if it’s just weird luck. Regardless, the worst case there shouldn’t be bad enough to cause anything like this. It effectively would just raise the limit to 55 C, the same level other lights use.

To help with this, and to help with some other things, I very recently added a factory reset function. It changes all settings back to default, and auto-calibrates the temperature sensor. That happened after D4V2 though.

I’ve had a reply re the fault, and its a return to manufacturer fir repair/replacement.
I’m going away in three weeks time, where I was intending to use it, so hope its sorted before then

I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that even if you crank up the thermal settings to 70C (or whatever the max is), the light will still be protected from destroying itself.

Now, I get that you can mess with the room temperature settings to defeat the thermal controls, but as long as you’re doing things “honestly”, nobody should design a light that will burn out its electronics.

Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?

I dont want to pint any fingers but not everyone uses their lights in a responsible way

Do you think it will ever be possible for there to be titanium, and copper, d4 to be sale?

The picture shows a desoldered red lead. From this scenario can anything catastrophic happen (eg cell short) if this loose lead touches something on the board like one of the adjacent components or the screw?

Can the vibrations created by strobing modes detach weak solder connections? When you play with certain frequencies you can easily feel the flashlight vibrating.

The picture would be helpful if it was in focus and showing the other side of the wire and also the solder pad on the MCPCB. As it is i’m not sure you can tell much other than, yep, not connected.

While i did manage to start a fire ( in a safe location) using a D4 it was more of a novelty as its much easier with matches/correct fire lighting equipment.

As for the D4V2, I was having trouble with the UI, i did ask about the thermal regulation settings, although never got as far as changing anything, when it was working it did appear that it doesnt ( didnt?) throttle down as fast or as sudden as the D4, which has a noticeable step down after about 10 seconds

D4v1 did its thermal adjustments suddenly, all at once. It’s easily visible.

D4v2 does thermal adjustments smoothly and gradually. The initial drop is usually still noticeable, but after it gets close to a sustainable level, the adjustments are usually too subtle to see by eye.

It always felt like/feels like the D4 is telling you off for letting it get too hot, Bumpf! - stepdown, “let me get too hot again and i will singe your fingers!!”
where as the D4v2 is more of a crafty but, reserved type of beast

My D4v2 just got delivered today.
I really like the aux lights in green on the low/high blink mode.

Chippendale dancers

Apparently no interest, they aren’t using anything that requires software.

And now you know…. the rest of the story. :wink:

That English furniture is not everyone’s cup of tea