I checked your info and got 4PX Express off it as the carrier… then used 17Track.net to get to 4Px Express. Fund this:
2019-07-06 18:18
LAX, Released from customs: customs cleared.
2019-07-02 18:51
LAX, Shipment arrived at airport of destination country
…. so mine cleared Customs 2 days ago. Still nothing at USPS yet. But it’s close. Thanks for posting your info.
Yes, I think so. I sent Hank a 219 version with turbo limited to 75% power (PWM level 192/255).
That may be a little tricky on this model, given the amount of wires crammed in there, and the need for a pogo pin adapter for flashing.
I think someone was trying to imply that I would be sexually attracted to humans. Yuck. I’d rather cover my walls with pictures of ornate furniture.
That was just explained though. Different behavior for thermal response and momentary mode.
It’s okay to not like Anduril.
That’s very strange. An unsoldered wire is understandable, if there was a cold joint or a short or a MCPCB air gap or something… but the button is pretty bizarre. Those things are not easy to remove, even on purpose.
As for what to do, it sounds like your options have already been covered in other posts.
You’re probably correct.
However, calibrating the sensor is still important. And the t1634 seems to have somewhat different default calibration than t85. I set the firmware’s default to match the data sheet in both cases, but the readings I see on test units are a bit different.
On tiny85, I usually see default readings anywhere from ~15 C to ~40 C. But on tiny1634 I’ve only seen default readings ranging from 10 C to 12 C. So without calibration, the tiny85 would generally regulate down sooner and lower.
In the current build, which I think Emisar is using, I added a correction factor for tiny1634… but it’s only 5 C, which gets the default up to ~16 C for room temperature. I’d add more, but I don’t have a large enough sample size to say for sure whether this difference is real or if it’s just weird luck. Regardless, the worst case there shouldn’t be bad enough to cause anything like this. It effectively would just raise the limit to 55 C, the same level other lights use.
To help with this, and to help with some other things, I very recently added a factory reset function. It changes all settings back to default, and auto-calibrates the temperature sensor. That happened after D4V2 though.
I’ve had a reply re the fault, and its a return to manufacturer fir repair/replacement.
I’m going away in three weeks time, where I was intending to use it, so hope its sorted before then
I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that even if you crank up the thermal settings to 70C (or whatever the max is), the light will still be protected from destroying itself.
Now, I get that you can mess with the room temperature settings to defeat the thermal controls, but as long as you’re doing things “honestly”, nobody should design a light that will burn out its electronics.
Are you saying that they’re selling a light than will intentionally destroy itself if you raise the temperature settings to the max allowable? Why would they allow such a stupid feature?
Do you think it will ever be possible for there to be titanium, and copper, d4 to be sale?
The picture shows a desoldered red lead. From this scenario can anything catastrophic happen (eg cell short) if this loose lead touches something on the board like one of the adjacent components or the screw?
Can the vibrations created by strobing modes detach weak solder connections? When you play with certain frequencies you can easily feel the flashlight vibrating.
The picture would be helpful if it was in focus and showing the other side of the wire and also the solder pad on the MCPCB. As it is i’m not sure you can tell much other than, yep, not connected.
While i did manage to start a fire ( in a safe location) using a D4 it was more of a novelty as its much easier with matches/correct fire lighting equipment.
As for the D4V2, I was having trouble with the UI, i did ask about the thermal regulation settings, although never got as far as changing anything, when it was working it did appear that it doesnt ( didnt?) throttle down as fast or as sudden as the D4, which has a noticeable step down after about 10 seconds
D4v1 did its thermal adjustments suddenly, all at once. It’s easily visible.
D4v2 does thermal adjustments smoothly and gradually. The initial drop is usually still noticeable, but after it gets close to a sustainable level, the adjustments are usually too subtle to see by eye.
It always felt like/feels like the D4 is telling you off for letting it get too hot, Bumpf! - stepdown, “let me get too hot again and i will singe your fingers!!”
where as the D4v2 is more of a crafty but, reserved type of beast
My D4v2 just got delivered today.
I really like the aux lights in green on the low/high blink mode.
Apparently no interest, they aren’t using anything that requires software.
And now you know…. the rest of the story. 
That English furniture is not everyone’s cup of tea
You don’t like wood? 
Okay, but if the room temperature is set correctly, can the light be damaged if you set the max temperature as high as it will go? (IIRC, I think that is 70C.)
IMO, the light should protect itself. Otherwise, you have essentially a “suicide feature” programmed into the light as a valid setting. If it can’t operate at 70C, you shouldn’t be able to set it that high.
FWIW, the Narsil lights I have (like the Astrolux S43) seem to operate fine at 70C. Damn hot, for sure, but they haven’t melted down on me. (Internal temperature blinks out low 70’s when I shut off the light.)
I understand you don’t want to operate it at that temperature for long periods, because you risk heating up the battery beyond its 75C-80C safe operating temperature. But these lights heat up the head (where the thermostat is) far more than the body tube.
It does not really solve my problem as I explicitly like the momentary function (press and hold/release), but I am curious (and thanks nevertheless): How do I enable it, searching for “manual” in the FW3A PDF manual did only reveal an easter egg that was written with white font on the first page:
Edit: Found it in ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm : contents of ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril/anduril-manual.txt at revision 492 - Am I blind or is that simply not in the PDF manual? Is it not available for the FW3A then? The 5 clicks does not seem to do anything there as far as I can see (and as stated earlier).
Edit 2: I see this feature was only added very recently: ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm : revision 424 so FW3A won’t have it I assume.
Does your car prevent you from driving with excessively worn brake pads? The motherboard for my computer won’t prevent me from applying too much voltage to my CPU when I overclock. I could find examples all day long. You accept the risk when you do those things.
People should take responsibility for their ignorance. 
TK’s firmware does a good job preventing overheating issues but components may fail prematurely when exposed to excessive heat. You don’t accidentally change thermal settings, maybe it is possible but I surely never have and certainly it is almost impossible to set them so high without the knowledge of how to do it. It is too expensive and time consuming to calibrate the temp sensor in every flashlight. The majority of users appreciate the ability to set the thermal ceiling, because we know what we are doing and can use a IR thermometer to do so. The bottom line is don’t modify something unless you are willing to bear the risk.