YLP Panda 2M CRI headlamp review (2x LH351D, 4000K, CRI90)

Almost everything I’m looking for in a high cri headlamp. I want one for hands free close up lighting while doing detailed work and the beam profile and metal tube body (I hate having clamshells/box wear out and break) are great, if only it were a lightweight compact format using aa format batteries (14500 and nimh). When you’re squeezing into small spaces or working at an angle heavier headlamps aren’t as secure and comfortable. Plus aa is in a good spot having just enough capacity for a reasonable session and with nimh compatibility being really convenient to feed.

The high cri aa that is available is the acebeam h40. The beam profile isn’t as suitable but everything else appears to be on point. Anyone know if this is a reliable quality pick? Or if a better option is on the horizon?

Thanks for the excelent review maukka. Looks like a very nice headlamp with a very good price and ui. The only thing holding me back is the IPX6 rating since all my headlamps would get submerged or super soaked sooner rather than later. If they release a Panda 3R with high cri leds and improved driver and ui, I would definitely buy that since they’re rated at IPX8 and cave tested by AEDe.

Thank you for the review, it is very helpful.

Is it possible to get Narsil on the headlamp?

Yes Narsil! I’m a buyer then!

Thank you fnksb for suggestion.

Read that maybe SKILHUNT Headband can be used like alternative. (flashlight diameter 22mm and distance between ring places 44mm)

Order placed. Thanks maukaa for the great review and thanks fnksb for the coupon code

Just got mine today and am having trouble getting to the sub modes and smooth transitioning doesn’t seem to be any different than normal transitioning. Am I missing something? Did anyone else have any of these issues?

I think the downloadable manual will be of help:
http://ylplight.com/attachments/get/34/panda-2-cri-um.pdf

Smooth transition doesn’t mean ramping, just barely noticeable smoother transition between modes like on some small Olights.

So, do you guys think the PWM issues have been fixed?

What kind of issues?

On moonlight modes.

Do you mean two low-frequency moonlights?

In fact, this feature was added on purpose. During the tests was found a different response of the AMC7138 to the high frequency of moonlight (depending on the batches). So, in addition to the three high frequency-moonlights (5kHz), was added two low frequency moonlights (1kHz and 500Hz), just in case. On some batches of 7138 this will allow a lower brightness of moonlight .

Therefore, you can use one of the three high-frequency moonlight without inconvenience.

Ah ok.

Thank you a lot.

Can’t figure out how to change the moonlight mode from the default 6lm to another level.

  • Press “red” button 20x when OFF to enter hidden pro access
  • enter moonlight mode
  • wait 2-3s
  • press hold “white” button suppose to cycle through different sub-mode, but instead it just cycle between low/med/high

Not sure what I’m doing wrong


Figured it out.

Printed instruction sheet said to only “press-and-hold the white button” for cycling submode which is wrong. The PDF online instruction said to “Click + press-and-hold the white button”. So you are suppose to click once and quickly click/hold.

Hmm… Actually the printed manual says nothing about submode :innocent:
The submodes are described only in online instruction.

https://i.imgur.com/QxY3mm1.jpg

I got two sheets of instructions

You are right, it turned out that some boxes contained both short and long manuals. And really there were some mistakes in the long manuals.
Pls, look up correct information in the online-manual.

Great review, ordered one to try out.

Why are both lens frosted/diffused? I wish it has one that’s frosted and one clear for throw.

I agree with fnksb’s suggestion, putting the strap inside the rings makes it much more comfortable. It also takes all of the strain off of the strap slots in the silicone.

I’ve currently got my Panda in a cheap ($3) camo headband with dark green silicone (no top strap). (The same ones Simon sells in the Convoy store.) It fits surprisingly well considering how close together the rings are. It holds it’s tilt well because the rings are tight and sit sort of diagonally across the lamp body. So I think most silicone holders will work.

2 things to note;

  1. my holder was pre stretched from use with an 18650 zoomy and was easy to put on but still holds tight,
  2. my original camo strap was very worn and stretched and has been replaced with a slightly stiffer elastic which reduces bounce on the forehead. My elastic is threaded inside the loops which also helps with stability.

I will try to add pictures to better show what I mean, but I’m super busy at the moment so don’t hold your breath.