Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

And how about 14mm DTP MCPCB’s?

mosX material can't be used for DIY because there is layer of titanium above ceramic on which copper is electroplated. You can't etch titanium with anything that's not terribly dangerous for DIY.

I tried to etch it with standard FeCl3 solution and it does remove copper layer but titanium layer stays.

My manufacturer said that they have problems with sourcing this material so batch of 16/20mm mosX/aluramic boards for IR LEDs is probably my last of this kind.

I will not stock it anymore unless I find good tint.

Demand for that is probably too low.

Too bad, but thanks.

Does the supply shortage mean the “standard” MOSLED will be gone too?

ehh, just noticed my mistake… I meant the MOSLED, not the mosX/aluramic. I’ve been able to etch those with FeCl3 after removing the solder mask in select spots, although the bare alu needs to be masked off too. (It goes faster than the copper!)

I made only one batch on mosled (black) pcbs, it's not really high performing material compared to mosx and dtp, so I will not stock those either.

I have not seen one proper 14mm DTP MCPCB available anywhere. Maybe you should consider making 100 or so. Even if they are expensive. It’s a special item, and what better place to stock it than at led4power.com

Hi Neven,

I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn’t make sense to me.

Neven, still waiting for your LH351Ds 4000K 90 CRI. What’s the forecast? Is there a point in waiting longer or I should look for something diffrent?

Your clamp ammeter is probably off by a little bit (somewhere in BLF I reported that UNI-T clamp meters can be off quite a bit, but I don't remember which thread it was), when I'm testing drivers (with 0.1% accurate Rigol DP811) currents are usually accurate within 1% in 99% of cases.

I doon't plan to stock that LED anymore, unless I find really good tint, but chance for that is close to zero based on my experience. LH35D is really nice LED overall, but it's not the best at anything (CRI,output,tint, overdriving...) so it's not very interesting for flashlight modders.

I’m using a Fluke 319 that can zero before DC measurement. When this driver was used with the Luxeon V it was set at 5A and I measured 4.946A. It’s strange, because the Fluke 319 is supposed to have a 1.6% tolerance on the 40A setting. I’ll do a further investigation….

I see, thank you for honest answer, appreciate a lot. I was very curious how it works dedomed, furtunatelly I have 2 spare left :smiling_imp: (but not much room for fails)

When you slice the dome close it falls almost exactly on BBL or slightly under. With a lot of current it doesn’t shift much either. Only problem is output takes a decent hit and some flat LEDs are harder to focus

Thanks for hint. Is the LH351 dome hard? Heating up then slicing works good for this one?

My way is without heating: I have a series of 4 washers that fit between the led and the solder pads of the ledwires. They go from thick to thin, with the thinnests one the correct height to slice just above the phosfor. I use an oldschool two-sided Wilkinson razorblade to slice layers off the dome. I learned how to keep the blade straight while cutting and that for the last slice the angle that the blade makes makes a difference. Also the thickness of the solder layer is a factor involved in where the final cut ends, I try to seat the led as flat on the board as possible to get the same height all the time. Try practising on a wasted led.

Sounds like it will be added to my kit :slight_smile:

Very precious hints. Appreciate a lot :beer:

I do the same as djozz only with 2 or 3 washers. If you try it with just one the edge of the dome will likely tear off at the end of the cut. As djozz mentioned the solder height is a factor if you want a close cut but probably even more important is to try to use the same type of MCPCB each time. I have a 20mm one I use that has never had solder on the LED +/- pads so the washer sits flat/the same way every time.

Actually it’s good to know others experience similar problems, I was even thinking of getting something thinner than Wilkinson razor, but the trick with double / triple washer is definitely worth trying. Many thanks.