The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Ahh I see on another note are these 18350 batteries compatable in a short config d4 or d4v2

https://perfectvape.com/efest-18350-imr-battery-red-800-mah-button-top/

I can get these for 2 dollars plus tax was wondering if it would be worth grabbing a couple

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this, but I feel stupid to ask it outside this thread :person_facepalming:

I wanna mod a light that uses a 15mm driver, and is suitable to use 2*AA/Ni-MH cells in series.
I want to replace the driver for another one with a more suitable FW and UI, and the possibility to use 2x14500 Li-Ion batteries.

My questions are:

- which 15mm drivers are out there that will allow me to use 2x14500 Li-Ion cells in series? (with or without zener modification)

  • which LEDs can be driven in these circumstances? (type, single or multiple drivers)

I am really confused be some information and would like to clarify myself before making order of components to modify the light!

Thanks in advance!

It’s usually best to start by seeing if anyone has already modded the particular light you want to use as a host. Then you can find out if there are triple or quad spacers already made to fit. Assuming you can’t mill your own spacer, you might have to stick with a single 6v emitter.

Is there a specific UI you want to use?

I didn’t see any 15mm 6v drivers from MTN, but Lexel might have one. That’s my main 2 sources.

Thanks for your answer Jason!

That driver from Lexel, I’d need to use XHP50/70 leds with it?

The specific light in this case is the Lumintop Tool 25 that I received today and that some people are probably receiving now, or will receive soon.
So this light itself, I don’t think people have modded yet.
I would probably use only a single emitter, but not sure which one could be driven by 2 cells and the [INSERT NAME] driver.

The UI could be Bistro (in Lexel’s drivers) or guppy3drv (MTN drivers). I pointed these 2 as I know they sell 15mm drivers, but then, again, I am not sure if they will be able to work with 2*14500 cells, and which Leds will work on those conditions.

Besides this light, some of these questions are also applicable for the mod of the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (side switch) that I intend to mod.

I’m not sure if anyone makes a Buck driver that small, so you might be limited to a 6v led.

The XHP50/70 are 6 volt, but there are others out there. I’m not too familiar with them. Maybe someone else can comment on them. (Nichia 144A is 6v)

The xhp50/50.2 does not like FET drivers. The 70/70.2 would be fine with FET.

I really don’t know what kind of drivers are available in that small size. I think that’s what you need to find out first. I’ve never built anything with such a small driver.

Maybe the driver size is similar to the earlier Tool AA. Have you checked Tool AA threads?

Sorry I’m not much help.

If 1+1 is 2, then shouldn’t 2+2 be 3?

If the government tells you that 2+2=5, then that's what it is.

Hey Jason, thanks again for the replies!
Bummer that there are not small drivers for these kind of things :zipper_mouth_face:

The driver is custom shaped and has 14.3mm diameter and then some wings that make it go to 15mm.
But a shaved 15mm driver would make the job!

Then the LED pcb is also very small, like 12mm diameter, but the pill allows for something more!
I will have to explore what the host allows me to do, and seek what drivers vs Leds will fit the mod!!

Thanks again for the reply!

If anyone else has a hint on these stooooid questions of mine, please let me know :wink:

Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? This is the first time I held a DMM and I can’t seem to measure current. I followed the manual to the dot but nothing is happening.

If it helps:

- I tried to set the dial to microamps and switched the red lead to the right port and it seems to work fine(as in the light lights up but can’t measure anything because it’s overloading).

- I watched djozz’s video as well as a reference.

- The light is a Convoy S2+, biscotti, 6x7135.

  • I set it to DC mode(it shows in the LDC but it was hard to capture on the phone one-handed)

Note: Image shows the DMM in a negative value even though the leads are not touching anything

Don’t exceed the amperage rating for the ports as you can blow fuses and the correct fuses are hard to find.

Everything looks fine. With that type of light you have to connect and then disconnect reconnect fast like a half press of a tail switch to cycle modes.

Make sure the one lead is touching clean, raw aluminum.

My meter reads the same regardless of polarity. You can try switching the leads around to see if it makes a difference with your meter.

Is the flashlight turning on?

Thanks for the feedback JasonWW.

I tried connecting the negative end of the battery with some wire laying around and connected it to where the red lead is touching and it turned on so I assume that’s a correct place to put it?

It didn’t when I did it before. Just keeps showing a negative value from 0.2-0.5mA.

It doesn’t turn on at all. I’m not sure if it’s my lack of knowledge or the DMM is just defective. Voltage measures fine though.

You might have blown a fuse inside or the fuse might be missing on the 10A side.

Keep in mind that DMM are only good for measuring low currents accurately. Above a couple amps they can be off by a lot. For accuracy you want to use a clamp style ammeter. I only use my DMM ammeter for moonlight levels and parasitic drain measurements.

I see, I’ll try opening it up. Thanks for helping me out!

Edit: Confirmed it was a blown fuse. There was 2 inside and swapped it for the one in the micro amp one and its working now. Still need to find a new one though. Thanks Jason!

One thing you learn quick about DMM’s is that you keep your probes plugged into the voltage holes.

When you put the probes in the amperage holes to measure something, put them back on the voltage holes as soon as your done. If you forget and then go measure a batteries voltage, the fuse will blow right away. :person_facepalming: After you do that a few times and have to order special fuses you learn not to do it any more. It’s a real pain in the rear.

No, because “3” already has an intrinsic and local value equal to 1+1+1.

+1 this

This is why I have two DMM’s dedicated to Amp measurements only :person_facepalming:

BTW, those Aneng DMM’s are pretty precice. Considering the price.
I have an Aneng 8004 that’s only used for milli/microAmp/parasitic drain measurement. Compared to a calibrated Fluke DMM, the yA are “only” off by 1-2yA :student:

Anyone having facebook problems atm

> if the government tells you ….

Not Indiana: Indiana Pi Bill - Wikipedia

I’ve got a couple potentially stupid questions.

1) I’ve got a utorch lantern/bug zapper that takes a 18650. It has a sleeve inside that when removed it looks like it can fit a 21700. Will this break the light? isn’t the voltage the same?

2) Simon already said no, but if I had a convoy m3 that takes one 26500 battery and found a long enough tube to fit two 26500’s would it break the light? why?

Thanks!

1/ 21700 batteries are fairly new, and predominantly used in high-end flashlights. That’s why I think this sleeve is meant to fill the space needed for a 3*AAA battery carrier. Those have a diameter of a bit over 22.6mm.
Edit: a 21700 has the same voltage as an 18650, that does not hurt a bit. But I may be too long to fit.

2/ 2 batteries “in a row” have a voltage of 2*4.2V = 8.4V. You fry the driver when that is built for 1*4.2V.