That’s right. SP36S is not branded with any reference to BLF. I just wanted to explain that in terms of hardware (host, LEDs) this new version is quite similar to the BLF Andúril version.
However, Sofirn uses another driver or at least a different firmware flashed to the MCU.
Barry, should you be reading this thread regularly, please pay attention to the thread below. Maybe Sofirn should address these issues to DLG or whatever the manufacturer of this cell was.
That is a crap answer without merit. A thermal regulator not responding after ‘x’ years is not a responsibility of Sofirn’s liability. That is a defective flashlight and if anything, thermal device should be designed to open circuit and fall back to 50ºC (default lower value). Besides, I don’t cater to that probable cause, hearsay of over prudence.
Wow! The long-awaited happened!
Sofirn SP40 - a choice of LED color temperature (CCT) has appeared. I hope this will spread to the entire range of flashlights!
That’s nice but I already changed led on mine. If they add proper moonlight and better driver (like sp32A) i’d probably buy again. If they put anduril and add color choices BLF might go crazy.
I have a C8F on the way to me today as I could not pass up the Prime Day $25 deal. My question is, I really prefer 4000k tint. I’ve never swapped an LED before, but how hard would it be to swap in, say XP-L HI 5Ds? I know I’ve read before that people just buy a brand new MCPCB w/the LEDs pre-soldered, is that something I can do? I hope this is the right place to ask.
You can get new MCPCBs directly from Sofirn. That way you know they will fit. I don’t think you will find any already populated. Or at least I don’t know if a random populated triple board will fit the C8F reflectors. There is a good tutorial on reflowing emitters done by Vestureofblood that shows you how easy it is to do them. Many other instructions on BLF if you search around. After watching Matt’s tutorial I reflowed a C8F board and it worked the first time. You need access to a hot plate (Matt uses an electric frying pan) and some solder paste but that is about it. And you have to know how to solder in the board when you are done. Probably better to practice on a single board first with some emitter you don’t care about, but it really is one of the easiest mods. Then you will get exactly what you want. And BLF is all about learning modding.
This 32mm Noctigon mcpcb from MTN fits, but they are currently out of stock. You can buy it with whatever led Richard has available.
Another place selling the 32mm Noctigon is Intl. Outdoor. Hank sells the xpl hi 5D here. I think you can contact him to get a price for one mcpcb and 3 leds reflowed into place.
I thought the SC31 was the bargain of a lifetime at the 17bux it was going for. Perfect light for the muggle with everything you’d need (eg, charging).
My only grex would be the “breathing” light (which I just kept turned off anyway, so no big deal), as I prefer the Nitecore style “beacon” (short blink every few seconds).
Always on Low.
However there is something unexpected: Eco can only be reached after going through Low-Medium-High. There is no shortcut to Eco from Off :person_facepalming:
Ah that’s a shame, not even if you press and hold the button from off? Really needs a shortcut to Eco imo. The only thing I don’t like about my SP10B is that it effectively doesn’t have a Low, it just goes straight from Moon-Medium.
Edit: I guess the work around would be to always run it with 14500 and switch to Eco before turning off: “It memorizes the last brightness level used in the general modes when it is powered by 14500 battery”. This would make the other modes too bright for me though.