I swapped out the 7A’s for 351D’s (4000k) in my wife’s FW3A and she is much happier with the result. It’s very floody but she likes that.
Was it hard to do the swap? I imagine it’s just desoldering the 4 wires, remove the top and bottom boards, and just reflow?
Just wondering if there are any hidden surprises or tips I should know before I do it. Thinking about putting some 219b sw35 in mine.
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.
There would be.
Except that the FW3A does not have any secondary LEDs.
If you want secondary LEDs in your FW3A you have to buy a custom secondary LED board from Lexel. That custom board sits on the star just like the aux LED board on a D4v2 or E07.
Did you buy a modded one with secondary LEDs or are you mistaken?
If the secondary LEDs are those “dragon” type they will be on the same board as the main LEDs so you would want to re-use that board and leave them on during re flow. I guess this is why you said 4 wires.
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.
There would be.
Except that the FW3A does not have any secondary LEDs.
If you want secondary LEDs in your FW3A you have to buy a custom secondary LED board from Lexel. That custom board sits on the star just like the aux LED board on a D4v2 or E07.
contactcr wrote:
Did you buy a modded one with secondary LEDs or are you mistaken?
If the secondary LEDs are those “dragon” type they will be on the same board as the main LEDs so you would want to re-use that board and leave them on during re flow. I guess this is why you said 4 wires.
I’m so stupid… I was totally thinking about my D4v2… wanted to swap the emitters on that one.
I’m interesting in how you fare doing the D4v2. It does have an aux board but it seems like to me the most tricky thing would be fitting those 4-5 wires (edit: 6!) back through the MCPCB hole after they have soaked up some solder making the wires stiff. Seems like there’s barely enough room as is.
I’m so stupid… I was totally thinking about my D4v2… wanted to swap the emitters on that one.
Ignore my previous messages… haha.
No problem. I was kinda thinking that was the case actually.
My D4v2 hasn’t arrived yet, but my understanding is it uses an Aux LED board that sits on top of the main board.
There are 4 thin wires connected to the aux LED board. All 4 must be desoldered.
Then lift off the aux LED board to get access to the star, which has the normal 2 wires.
Use a fine-tip soldering iron for the aux LED connections and a heavier tip for desoldering the star.
Before desoldering, take pictures so you know the proper pads to resolder each of those 4 wires.
If you’re having trouble threading all 6 wires through the hole in the star, do the following:
Solder a long narrow gauge guide wire onto the end of each of the original wires. A couple inches should be enough for each guide wire.
Thread the guidewires through the hole in the star.
Slide the star down along the guidewires until in position on the shelf. Use the guidewires to pull the original wires through the hole.
Desolder the guidewires.
Swapping emitters is quite doable on lights with aux LED boards, but it is a much more complex operation than doing so on a light without the aux LED board. Leave lots of time for the project and take a slow and methodical approach.
I’m so stupid… I was totally thinking about my D4v2… wanted to swap the emitters on that one.
Ignore my previous messages… haha.
No problem. I was kinda thinking that was the case actually.
My D4v2 hasn’t arrived yet, but my understanding is it uses an Aux LED board that sits on top of the main board.
There are 4 thin wires connected to the aux LED board. All 4 must be desoldered.
Then lift off the aux LED board to get access to the star, which has the normal 2 wires.
Use a fine-tip soldering iron for the aux LED connections and a heavier tip for desoldering the star.
Before desoldering, take pictures so you know the proper pads to resolder each of those 4 wires.
If you’re having trouble threading all 6 wires through the hole in the star, solder a long narrow gauge guide wire onto the end of each wire. Thread that through, then desolder the guidewire.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll post pics if I decide to do this. Will probably swap the emitters on my FW3A as well so I wouldn’t be hijacking this thread… lol
I tried a UCL 22.61mm x 1.90mm lens on my FW3A, and was disappointed to find that it created a slight gap between the bezel and the rest of the head. With the original lens, the fit is so good that the head appears as one piece.
Maybe I’ll try the sapphire lens that Neal sells or TK’s method of polishing the coating off of the original.
I bought these to use around the Emisar D4 switch to recess it. They fit perfectly around the chrome ring and bring the top of the switch flush with the plain of the washer. Turns out , they also look good on the FW3A . I think they will prevent accidental activation well. Sorry, no pictures. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBQ789W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_...
Since it seems pennzy does not do pictures… let’s see if we can’t decipher & actually see what he did with these three pictures….. All lined up in a row in one easy to locate place… Right Here in THIS Post….. …
. SS Flat Washers from Amazon
To expand on this idea, for anyone that wants a magnetic tail cap, I am considering using one of these to do the same. They are basically neodymium washers. My only apprehension is the 2mm thickness, but I don’t think it will be that bad.
EDIT: Also I found a pull force calculator for ring magnets and these should hold about 4 pounds which should be sufficient for the FW3A.
Neodymium magnets are brittle, so they may not last a lifetime when mounted so exposed.
I had considered that. I was hopeful since they are at the lower end of the scale for neodymium magnets for magnetism that they would be strong enough.
The thickness of the magnet should be fine for breakage if backed by a solid setting bond, I would probably use JB weld instead of the E6800 as that remains slightly flexible once cured?
Plus the JB weld can be moulded up the sides of the magnet and shaped with acetone before fully cured.
Chipping shouldn’t be too much of a concern but yeah a coating might help.
I have a similar setup with a small ring magnet around the tail switch on this light with no problems. Stuck on with JB weld & surrounded with a glow mix.
The thickness of the magnet should be fine for breakage if backed by a solid setting bond, I would probably use JB weld instead of the E6800 as that remains slightly flexible once cured?
Plus the JB weld can be moulded up the sides of the magnet and shaped with acetone before fully cured.
Chipping shouldn’t be too much of a concern but yeah a coating might help.
I have a similar setup with a small ring magnet around the tail switch on this light with no problems. Stuck on with JB weld & surrounded with a glow mix.
The E6800 , when used in thin films is not flexible . It is when used in thicker applications.
This is hard to explain. In thin films is can be flexed but when gluing down a rigid washer with a thin film it will not move. Figure that one out. If you glued 2 credit cards together, they still could bend though.
The thickness of the magnet should be fine for breakage if backed by a solid setting bond, I would probably use JB weld instead of the E6800 as that remains slightly flexible once cured?
Plus the JB weld can be moulded up the sides of the magnet and shaped with acetone before fully cured.
Chipping shouldn’t be too much of a concern but yeah a coating might help.
I have a similar setup with a small ring magnet around the tail switch on this light with no problems. Stuck on with JB weld & surrounded with a glow mix.
Was it hard to do the swap? I imagine it’s just desoldering the 4 wires, remove the top and bottom boards, and just reflow?
Just wondering if there are any hidden surprises or tips I should know before I do it. Thinking about putting some 219b sw35 in mine.
Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (｡◕‿◕｡)
“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5
No need to remove the driver if that’s what you mean by bottom board.
If you have the later batch of FW3A they come with a small screw in the shelf and a divot on the underside of the MCPCB to keep it from spinning when you screw the bezel on. I would re-use this one if you are able for that reason. If you don’t want to re-use it you need to remove that screw so it sits flush.
If you have the very first batch of FW3A you can re-use the MCPCB or use an aftermarket one. After you have everything soldered back in place you might want to spin the MCPCB a quarter turn counter clockwise so when it spins while cranking the bezel it wont pull on the wires.
On mine they only used wires exactly as long as they needed to so if you use an aftermarket PCB where the wires are further out it may not reach without replacing them. YMMV.
So there aren’t 2 boards where the MCPCB is? One for the main emitters and one board for the secondary LEDs? I wasn’t referring to the driver. I have the first batch of FW3A I think.
Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (｡◕‿◕｡)
“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5
Except that the FW3A does not have any secondary LEDs.
If you want secondary LEDs in your FW3A you have to buy a custom secondary LED board from Lexel. That custom board sits on the star just like the aux LED board on a D4v2 or E07.
Did you buy a modded one with secondary LEDs or are you mistaken?
If the secondary LEDs are those “dragon” type they will be on the same board as the main LEDs so you would want to re-use that board and leave them on during re flow. I guess this is why you said 4 wires.
I’m so stupid… I was totally thinking about my D4v2… wanted to swap the emitters on that one.
Ignore my previous messages… haha.
Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (｡◕‿◕｡)
“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5
I’m interesting in how you fare doing the D4v2. It does have an aux board but it seems like to me the most tricky thing would be fitting those 4-5 wires (edit: 6!) back through the MCPCB hole after they have soaked up some solder making the wires stiff. Seems like there’s barely enough room as is.
D4v2
My D4v2 hasn’t arrived yet, but my understanding is it uses an Aux LED board that sits on top of the main board.
If you’re having trouble threading all 6 wires through the hole in the star, do the following:
Swapping emitters is quite doable on lights with aux LED boards, but it is a much more complex operation than doing so on a light without the aux LED board. Leave lots of time for the project and take a slow and methodical approach.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll post pics if I decide to do this. Will probably swap the emitters on my FW3A as well so I wouldn’t be hijacking this thread… lol
Need Nichia 219b r9080 Emitters? (｡◕‿◕｡)
“The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it.” John 1:5
Hi, who is selling the glow rings?
I think you can get them from Neal (Here), CRX (Here), or anywhere else that sells glow gaskets for 20mm Carlco triples.
Alternatively you could make one yourself using these instructions: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62243
Beautifully crafted response
thx
You are welcome!
I tried a UCL 22.61mm x 1.90mm lens on my FW3A, and was disappointed to find that it created a slight gap between the bezel and the rest of the head. With the original lens, the fit is so good that the head appears as one piece.
Maybe I’ll try the sapphire lens that Neal sells or TK’s method of polishing the coating off of the original.
To expand on this idea, for anyone that wants a magnetic tail cap, I am considering using one of these to do the same. They are basically neodymium washers. My only apprehension is the 2mm thickness, but I don’t think it will be that bad.
EDIT: Also I found a pull force calculator for ring magnets and these should hold about 4 pounds which should be sufficient for the FW3A.
link to djozz tests
I had considered that. I was hopeful since they are at the lower end of the scale for neodymium magnets for magnetism that they would be strong enough.
Just try to avoid hard impacts.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
I’d do my best obviously. I wish I could make a button like yours. I’m still thinking on it a bit.
I thought I might epoxy coat it to add durability.
The thickness of the magnet should be fine for breakage if backed by a solid setting bond, I would probably use JB weld instead of the E6800 as that remains slightly flexible once cured?
Plus the JB weld can be moulded up the sides of the magnet and shaped with acetone before fully cured.
Chipping shouldn’t be too much of a concern but yeah a coating might help.
I have a similar setup with a small ring magnet around the tail switch on this light with no problems. Stuck on with JB weld & surrounded with a glow mix.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
The E6800 , when used in thin films is not flexible . It is when used in thicker applications.
This is hard to explain. In thin films is can be flexed but when gluing down a rigid washer with a thin film it will not move. Figure that one out.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
That looks really cool! I may do something like that. Love your lights.
I reflashed FW3A, add a blue aux led, now it’s beautiful
Forgot my pen
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
well, of course, i dont want it to be a “hot rod”
Forgot my pen
So it turns out my diffusers work great at lighting up an area of the basement during a power outage due to severe weather.
Hope you made it through the bad weather OK. Your diffusers work great even when the power is not out… I love em’!!!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Some tree damage, power is still out, another band of storm coming in a little while.
The winds took down that tree, but didn’t knock over a moped nearby.
Pretty strong wind to snap that tree like it did.
. Hope the weather calms & you get power restored soon.
Stay safe….
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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