FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

The thickness of the magnet should be fine for breakage if backed by a solid setting bond, I would probably use JB weld instead of the E6800 as that remains slightly flexible once cured?
Plus the JB weld can be moulded up the sides of the magnet and shaped with acetone before fully cured.
Chipping shouldn’t be too much of a concern but yeah a coating might help.

I have a similar setup with a small ring magnet around the tail switch on this light with no problems. Stuck on with JB weld & surrounded with a glow mix.

The E6800 , when used in thin films is not flexible . It is when used in thicker applications.
This is hard to explain. In thin films is can be flexed but when gluing down a rigid washer with a thin film it will not move. Figure that one out. :smiley: If you glued 2 credit cards together, they still could bend though.

:+1:

That looks really cool! I may do something like that. Love your lights.





I reflashed FW3A, add a blue aux led, now it’s beautiful

Did you replace the cut + lead…

well, of course, i dont want it to be a “hot rod”

So it turns out my diffusers work great at lighting up an area of the basement during a power outage due to severe weather.

Hope you made it through the bad weather OK. Your diffusers work great even when the power is not out… I love em’!!! :beer:


Some tree damage, power is still out, another band of storm coming in a little while.

The winds took down that tree, but didn’t knock over a moped nearby.

Pretty strong wind to snap that tree like it did. :open_mouth: . Hope the weather calms & you get power restored soon.

Stay safe…. :slight_smile:

Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.


SO cool!

/\ . That looks great!!! :beer:

an FW3A with aux LEDs?

I got mine too. Though I need to get the gear and learn how to reflash the driver. Currently just connected to battery so permanently on.

SST-20 4000k FD2, Noctigon triple board, 10507 optic, CRX Aqua glow gasket and emisar spring in the tail :slight_smile:

Out of interest I took some measurements (these are with a phone so they won’t be perfect)

SST-20 Lumens:
table(table#posts).
|1*7135|112lm|
|8*7135|754lm|
|Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)|1933lm|
|Turbo (30Q, 3.75v)|1490lm|

SST-20 intensity @ 1m:
table(table#posts).
|1*7135|1099cd|
|Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)|17160cd|

~9.3cd/lm

For comparison here is what I got for the XP-L Hi 5D

XPL Lumens:
table(table#posts).
|1*7135|130lm|
|Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)|2901lm|

XPL Intensity @ 1m:
table(table#posts).
|1*7135|1101cd|
|Turbo (30Q, 4.19v)|24320cd|

~8.5cd/lm

So the SST-20 is slightly throwier, but the output of the XP-L Hi makes up for it. The throw of both at the 1*7135 is basically identical. The beam of the SST-20 is very focused; close to a wall you can see its pretty much made up of 3 squares. Its slightly green on low levels, but perfectly acceptable. It looks more neutral than afternoon sunlight for example (I heard sunlight has slightly positive duv?)

Thanks for the numbers and comparison. I don’t really see much if any green in mine at any level. I do love how neutral it is though. I am using the 10507 optic with my SST-20 and I think the hotspot is quite big still, so the throw from the optic and the SST-20 really make it a great EDC because it can do it all quite well. That’s the case especially for my work. I am a sysadmin and could be close up behind a rack needing the high CRI for cabling or up in a ceiling needing the throw. It really is awesome.

I have some of those washers coming. I’m assuming gorilla glue will work? Acetone can remove it but that’s probably really bad for a rubber boot.

If you have to use Acetone, you can always take it apart first to spare damage to the rubber boot. :+1: