Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
Not terribly difficult once you have the software installed and the hardware to do a flash. I hear most people have more trouble getting the Windows drivers sorted for the USBasp. I use Linux, and it is a breeze.
What kind of computer do you have available?
The more difficult part here is modifying the Anduril code before flashing it. I haven’t tried that yet, but I have 2 Lexel boards coming. I will see if I can write up a guide or something once I do one successfully.
It is working on Win 10 without any problems after you got the Powershell.exe and arvdude.exe in the same location as the HEX files
I use this command for my Bistro drivers
./avrdude.exe -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
It was no big deal to get it also running as External Tool in Atmel Studio 7
Just an avarage Windows 10 setup. Should do the job. I still need to buy all the pins and connectors to do the flashing. And I want to buy a third FW3A to use as Gunea pig for this project. What hardware do I need for this particular project? Preferably something I can buy off AliExpress.
How “bright” would .3mA with green LEDs be considered? I’m looking for bright enough to not be overpowering if I am using moonlight, but bright enough it can be enjoyed still in normal indoor lighting. If that is even possible that is.
Edit: Actually if anyone has a turboglow green gasket. I’m looking for a similar brightness to that at full brightness. It looks vibrant even under indoor lighting, but isn’t overpowering in the dark.
Since green is the most efficient .3 in green is the maximum I would go in that color with what you describe. My .3 dark blue is easily visible under normal indoor lighting.
You don’t mention it but when it’s visible with normal ambient indoor light it also tends to be a bit bright for something like a night stand if that kind of thing bothers you. If not, I think .3 is probably a good value for green.
I do tail stand it on the nightstand. How bright would you say your dark blue is in the dark compared to moonlight?
Edit: Now that I think about it, the ideal thing would be for someone to come out with a crenelated bezel. Then I could head stand it and just let a light green glow come out.
So, when controlled by the MCU is Low always the same no matter what brightness you choose when you order the board? What I mean is would a 0.3mA board and a 0.5mA board both have the same Low setting when controlled by the MCU?
Some not so great news, the “2nd batch” MCPCB’s are a bit different:
I guess this leaves us with Noctigon 3XP (then you need to remove the screw on the shelf that prevents twisting) or maybe scratching away new hookup pads that line up better. Is that possible? Can you guys tell from the traces if that’s safe to do?
Mtn boards are impossible to source now cause of dragon driver fanboys. I really want to reuse the stock board cause it has that dimple in the bottom. I guess I could try to make my own on a different pcb.
You don’t think I can just scrape a spot on the PCB where Lexel’s openings are and solder to that instead?