So the SST-20 is slightly throwier, but the output of the XP-L Hi makes up for it. The throw of both at the 1*7135 is basically identical. The beam of the SST-20 is very focused; close to a wall you can see its pretty much made up of 3 squares. Its slightly green on low levels, but perfectly acceptable. It looks more neutral than afternoon sunlight for example (I heard sunlight has slightly positive duv?)
Thanks for the numbers and comparison. I don’t really see much if any green in mine at any level. I do love how neutral it is though. I am using the 10507 optic with my SST-20 and I think the hotspot is quite big still, so the throw from the optic and the SST-20 really make it a great EDC because it can do it all quite well. That’s the case especially for my work. I am a sysadmin and could be close up behind a rack needing the high CRI for cabling or up in a ceiling needing the throw. It really is awesome.
I think I am going to go the washer route too. I am going to add my magnet on the clip. I had a magnet, but I accidentally mostly demagnetized it adding the heat shrink. I rushed it and got it too hot.
Here are the changes I made if you are familiar with editing and compiling the firmware. If not Lexel posted some .hex files with similar changes already made in his thread.
Seriously impressive! Man, sure hope the FW3A evolves into a later version providing aux LED’s like this. I just don’t have the technical know-how to do it myself.
I did not use any additional board. I placed the additional diode centrally on the existing board and connected it to the driver.
I compiled the latest version (FW3A) of adruil with aux led support. Everything works very well :
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is there a guide with pics of the mod required and also a guide and firmware for flashing, hopefully including a good cable for the flashing?
The flashing process is pretty much the same as any other attiny85 based driver. Lexel has a bit of info and a precompiled .hex file in his thread where he is selling these boards.
You’ll need a USBasp, an SOIC8 clip and something to connect them (dupont wires are the usual recommendation). For instructions, there is a thread going up for the D4V2 and the instructions will be adaptable to the FW3A. The main differences between the lights are the method of connection (FW3A uses a generic clip and the D4V2 uses a special programming key), the chip being flashed (attiny85 instead of attiny1634), and the file to be flashed.
I think there is an old thread/post by Hoop on how to flash attiny based drivers as well. (they are all very similar)