I’ll post the firmware changes but click on the aux boards link in the post for more info. There’s a few ways to do it
Ok, thank You 
Here are the changes I made if you are familiar with editing and compiling the firmware. If not Lexel posted some .hex files with similar changes already made in his thread.
Thank you again for your help. Above the final effect :)
Nice, what did you use for your aux LEDs? Lexel’s board or a PCB with secondaries?
@ KB…
You owe me a keyboard. You did not post a ’DROOL WARNING’ wth your photos & I shorted my keyboard out. It was bad…. magic smoke & flames. . 
. 
Seriously… those look amazing!! . 
/\ +1
Seriously impressive! Man, sure hope the FW3A evolves into a later version providing aux LED’s like this. I just don’t have the technical know-how to do it myself.
@ KawiBoy, you’re giving my eyes diabetes.
I did not use any additional board. I placed the additional diode centrally on the existing board and connected it to the driver.
I compiled the latest version (FW3A) of adruil with aux led support. Everything works very well :
Sorry if this has already been asked, but is there a guide with pics of the mod required and also a guide and firmware for flashing, hopefully including a good cable for the flashing?
Start here: [SALE] FW3A lighted TIR board multicolored with LVP, stabilized or High/low
The flashing process is pretty much the same as any other attiny85 based driver. Lexel has a bit of info and a precompiled .hex file in his thread where he is selling these boards.
You’ll need a USBasp, an SOIC8 clip and something to connect them (dupont wires are the usual recommendation). For instructions, there is a thread going up for the D4V2 and the instructions will be adaptable to the FW3A. The main differences between the lights are the method of connection (FW3A uses a generic clip and the D4V2 uses a special programming key), the chip being flashed (attiny85 instead of attiny1634), and the file to be flashed.
I think there is an old thread/post by Hoop on how to flash attiny based drivers as well. (they are all very similar)
You only need to flash if you want high/low/off. Lexel has a board with LVP built in you can wire up with no changes but you get 1 brightness level and always on.
Approximately how long before one of those boards drained a battery?
Is this correct…
A 0.3 mA board would drain a 3000mAh battery in approximately 10,000 hours??
A 0.5 mA board would last about 6,000 hours with the same battery & no LVP.
Have I figured that correctly??
Yes I believe so.
Just as a reference the D4v2 on high draws 3mA according to TK so 10x higher than some configs here. Them fancy bright RBG LEDs you pay a price for!
Thank you contactcr…… :+1:
So, deep carry pocket clips. Anyone make them?
Or cool button options?
I already have a board with secondaries, the one commonly used with Dragon drivers. That board uses a common + for the primary and secondary LEDs and separate ground cables.
Is there a driver mod and firmware for the FW3A to work with this board? I prefer to use it as I already have it and I also want to use a turboglow gasket between it and the optic, something obviously impossible if there is a second board in there.
Steve Ku is making some really nice trit tailcaps.