It will work with win 10 1903 64 bit ?
I figured out on my own by reading posts what to buy, download and how to flash a few months ago when the Q8 was the hot topic. With clear instructions and the right equipment it really is “easy”. I didn’t find it “easy” nailing down all my (stupid) questions, but digesting tons of posts…I finally got it.
That being said…
If the EXACT hardware and software is provided, and a special thread is created to describe the supplied hardware/software necessary, I suspect it will actually be very easy to follow along and get a successful outcome.
Much of my time spent and confusion was from putting together different dated posts that sometimes didn’t correspond to current reality. I also found it more mechanically tedious than mentally difficult. Tiny wires falling off, putting wiggly wires in tiny holes, programming clips that didn’t seat correctly every time…etc.
Once actually set up with all the right stuff, it will/could be as easy as Hank describes: plug in the USB programmer, start the programming flash program, direct the flash program to the hex file you want/need, touch the six pins to the six D4v2 vias (you will have to hold them there with a steady hand), send the flash command…and if it’s successful, the light will be programmed in a few seconds and ready to power up with a new UI.
There is definitely a learning curve when teaching yourself, but I suspect most if not all will not have much trouble if they are just mindful to follow the steps.
Terry Oregon had successful results just a few minutes after finally having all the correct info and programs necessary. I liked how he overcame the pin key being too thick by angling the pins!
After I figured it out, I flashed my two Q8’s and my DS4 in under 30 mins, and most of that time was spent futzing around with the wires—the actual flashing was pretty straight forward and quick. We are going to discuss this for days, but when people get the kits and instructions it will all be over quicker than Christmas morning.
It’s actually kinda neat that you can be a part of your own little Tesla moment—hacking the UI of a sophisticated and complex torch.
Mine is Windows 10 1803 64 bit. I think you will be OK. I installed the USB board drivers using the zadig program, as described HERE. BTW, that's a very useful post from BLF member amars7
I concur, it was only time consuming for me, because I had to pull all the info from multiple sources. I just liked the challenge of figuring it out myself. What comes from Hank should be MUCH more straight forward.
thanks for the infos. sounds good…
I would get me one of these… with ANDROIL or ANDUROID.
Funny story:
I had my car at the mechanic recently checking on the engines ‘brain’, that is how the call complex car electronics in Greece.
He said, you are very lucky your can only has one brain. (I drive an old car)
Modern cars have 25.
Hank’s link to google drive is working but if the link is just copy/paste as text, the forum is turning it into a link but changes a character in the process which makes it not working.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XEVlyF9X5atOdHOB9PVObWHJOJ6_dEaq/view
Android, Android… What about flashing the firmware using an Android phone? And indeed, someone compiled avrdude for Android and wrapped it in a nice GUI: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ru.zdevs.zflasheravr
You just need a USB OTG adapter, select the correct parameters and press GO! Here is a screenshot of what you have to configure:
Dang it . I was just going to leave mine alone . I never use muggle mode , so for me , no problem . After reading all the discussion on the the subject , I realize that’s not a good idea . Once I’m gone , my kids are gonna throw all my stuff out , and who knows where this light will end up .
Just wanna add this to the discussion. If you’re more of a GUI person, and less command line. AVRdudeess might be for you.
I use it when i flash my flashlights
The “detect” button in the top right is very handy. press this to detect MCU/confirm connection. To make sure the clip/pins is correctly connected
And I checked, it’s ATtiny1634 compatible 
I did go into my AVR Studio and found the t1634 chip there, did not occur to me that AVR Dude might not have it! Thanks Terry for getting to the bottom of this error. 
I am sorry, but Hank’s post does NOT explain how or when we can begin to order these kits.
- Will we need to wait until the kits appear on int-outdoor.com?
2. Or will we need to message him with our order number and request a kit? Then when he OKs it, pay via PayPal?
3. Or will Hank be reaching out to each person with a muggle bugged D4v2 via email to let them know they are eligible to buy a kit? Then request them to pay via PayPal to confirm with their order number?
In other words, how and when can we begin ordering these kits? Knowing that the kits will take some time to get to their destination, most of us would like to order theirs as soon as possible.
Just tested it with Convoy driver and ATTiny13 and it works perfect!
Thank you!
I realize we live in a near instant gratification society but I'm absolutely positive that Hank will give us the details once he has them all ironed out. Why wouldn't he? It seems pointless to me to keep asking when the kits will be ready (not just you but several others as well), how to order them and all the other details that don't really matter until the kits are ready and Hank is ready to sell them. This lack of patience reminds me of little kids in the back seat of the car when traveling, asking "Are we there yet?", "How long until we get there?", "How come we're not there yet?", "Why is it taking so long to get there?". My dad would always say "We'll get there when we get there!". I could go on and on but you get the point (I hope). How does repeatedly asking help the situation? Do you think it makes Hank work faster? I think not. He's going as fast as he can. He even eluded to that in one of his posts that they were working on it non-stop except for sleep.
The kits and details on exactly how to order them willl be ready when he gets them ready. I'm just sitting back and being patient.
I downloaded AVRDUDE V6.3 and had no issue re-flashing my D4V2. Works fine and now has the latest firmware. Soldered 32ga leads directly to the driver and to my USBASP devices Pomona clip. Once the t1634 was recognized it was but a few seconds of flash time. Thanks TK, and thanks to those that found out why my AVRdude wasn’t recognizing the chip used.
Edit: For clarity, I unzipped the V6.3 and then copy and pasted the EXE and CONF files into my existing .bin folder where AVRdude already resided. No problemo.
The first runtime graph is before the firmware update.
The second is after the firmware update.
I also installed a battery charged to 15%, then turned the light off for one hour, no turn-on.
Everything looks good.
I did notice one other change. The max brightness in muggle mode is now higher. Per my Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube, I now get 420 lumens at the top of the ramp (after update) vs 320 lumens before update (about a 25% increase). This is with the frosted optic 10623. With the clear lens, it will be about 15% higher (about 485 lumens). Note the lumens readings on the first graph were with the clear optic, which doesn't compare directly with the second graph (frosted optic).
Edit update. It has come to my attention that there was a firmware update specifically for the Nichia emitter option (which mine has). After reflashing again with the correct Nichia hex file, I now get a max of 300 lumens in muggle mode, bringing it back to what it was before the update. The firmware update for Nichia throttles down the max output a bit.
Oh, and TK? The new reset function is radically cool!
I wasn’t asking you for your opinion on my asking Hank my questions. When he has time, Hank will answer. If he is too busy making kits and has no time to view our questions here, I think we all will understand. I know he already has some kits ready to ship, but perhaps not all of them to meet the demand. (BTW, I am no kid. In fact, I am 76 years old and I am far from being part of the immediate gratification generation.)
Another For-The-Record…
Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers. The Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters are making (with spring bypasses) 4820 lumens on a freshly charged Molicel P26A. Even the Efest 1000mAh 18500 does 4030 lumens at start. Ok, I like it. lol
Edit: and just another little factoid… when I calibrated my light box to Maukka’s calibration lights I used diffusion film taken from a Samsung 26” monitor in order to get the meter to read actual numbers with no multiplier. To get this to come out right it ended up about 2-3% low, which I went ahead and accepted for ease of use. So that means I’m actually getting something close to 5000 lumens out the front on the fully charged Molicel, for whatever that is worth. It drops fast with the thermal protection settling down around 1370 lumens and stabilized.
That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I'm seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.
Oh, I didn't think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second at turn-on) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got 3,000 lumens (for a second at turn-on).