TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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McLight
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Terry Oregon wrote:

Hank has given me permission to post a link to the AVR files he sent me (it’s a zip file).  There are a lot of zipped files – and you will need to know what to do with them. This was uploaded to my Mediafire account (Hank has problems using google in China).


http://www.mediafire.com/folder/ikdiocyfn20zg/Hank-Files

It will work with win 10 1903 64 bit ?

In GoD & Trance we trust, the rest pay Cash!!

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I figured out on my own by reading posts what to buy, download and how to flash a few months ago when the Q8 was the hot topic. With clear instructions and the right equipment it really is “easy”. I didn’t find it “easy” nailing down all my (stupid) questions, but digesting tons of posts…I finally got it.

That being said…

If the EXACT hardware and software is provided, and a special thread is created to describe the supplied hardware/software necessary, I suspect it will actually be very easy to follow along and get a successful outcome.

Much of my time spent and confusion was from putting together different dated posts that sometimes didn’t correspond to current reality. I also found it more mechanically tedious than mentally difficult. Tiny wires falling off, putting wiggly wires in tiny holes, programming clips that didn’t seat correctly every time…etc.

Once actually set up with all the right stuff, it will/could be as easy as Hank describes: plug in the USB programmer, start the programming flash program, direct the flash program to the hex file you want/need, touch the six pins to the six D4v2 vias (you will have to hold them there with a steady hand), send the flash command…and if it’s successful, the light will be programmed in a few seconds and ready to power up with a new UI.

There is definitely a learning curve when teaching yourself, but I suspect most if not all will not have much trouble if they are just mindful to follow the steps.

Terry Oregon had successful results just a few minutes after finally having all the correct info and programs necessary. I liked how he overcame the pin key being too thick by angling the pins!

After I figured it out, I flashed my two Q8’s and my DS4 in under 30 mins, and most of that time was spent futzing around with the wires—the actual flashing was pretty straight forward and quick. We are going to discuss this for days, but when people get the kits and instructions it will all be over quicker than Christmas morning.

It’s actually kinda neat that you can be a part of your own little Tesla moment—hacking the UI of a sophisticated and complex torch.

When I'm spending mony foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...

I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...

 

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McLight wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:

Hank has given me permission to post a link to the AVR files he sent me (it's a zip file).  There are a lot of zipped files - and you will need to know what to do with them. This was uploaded to my Mediafire account (Hank has problems using google in China).

http://www.mediafire.com/folder/ikdiocyfn20zg/Hank-Files

It will work with win 10 1903 64 bit ?

Mine is Windows 10 1803 64 bit. I think you will be OK. I installed the USB board drivers using the zadig program, as described HERE. BTW, that's a very useful post from BLF member amars7

 

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

Terry Oregon
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Man Without Shadow wrote:
I figured out on my own by reading posts what to buy, download and how to flash a few months ago when the Q8 was the hot topic. With clear instructions and the right equipment it really is "easy". I didn't find it "easy" nailing down all my (stupid) questions, but digesting tons of posts...I finally got it. That being said... If the EXACT hardware and software is provided, and a special thread is created to describe the supplied hardware/software necessary, I suspect it will actually be very easy to follow along and get a successful outcome. Much of my time spent and confusion was from putting together different dated posts that sometimes didn't correspond to current reality. I also found it more mechanically tedious than mentally difficult. Tiny wires falling off, putting wiggly wires in tiny holes, programming clips that didn't seat correctly every time...etc. Once actually set up with all the right stuff, it will/could be as easy as Hank describes: plug in the USB programmer, start the programming flash program, direct the flash program to the hex file you want/need, touch the six pins to the six D4v2 vias (you will have to hold them there with a steady hand), send the flash command...and if it's successful, the light will be programmed in a few seconds and ready to power up with a new UI. There is definitely a learning curve when teaching yourself, but I suspect most if not all will not have much trouble if they are just mindful to follow the steps. Terry Oregon had successful results just a few minutes after finally having all the correct info and programs necessary. I liked how he overcame the pin key being too thick by angling the pins! After I figured it out, I flashed my two Q8's and my DS4 in under 30 mins, and most of that time was spent futzing around with the wires--the actual flashing was pretty straight forward and quick. We are going to discuss this for days, but when people get the kits and instructions it will all be over quicker than Christmas morning. It's actually kinda neat that you can be a part of your own little Tesla moment--hacking the UI of a sophisticated and complex torch.

I concur, it was only time consuming for me, because I had to pull all the info from multiple sources.  I just liked the challenge of figuring it out myself.  What comes from Hank should be MUCH more straight forward.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

McLight
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Terry Oregon wrote:

McLight wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:

Hank has given me permission to post a link to the AVR files he sent me (it’s a zip file).  There are a lot of zipped files – and you will need to know what to do with them. This was uploaded to my Mediafire account (Hank has problems using google in China).


http://www.mediafire.com/folder/ikdiocyfn20zg/Hank-Files


It will work with win 10 1903 64 bit ?

Mine is Windows 10 1803 64 bit. I think you will be OK. I installed the USB board drivers using the zadig program, as described HERE. BTW, that’s a very useful post from BLF member amars7


 

thanks for the infos. sounds good..

In GoD & Trance we trust, the rest pay Cash!!

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

Once you make a flashlight as complex as a smartphone, you may as well just use your smartphone.

I would get me one of these… with ANDROIL or ANDUROID.

Funny story:
I had my car at the mechanic recently checking on the engines ‘brain’, that is how the call complex car electronics in Greece.

He said, you are very lucky your can only has one brain. (I drive an old car)
Modern cars have 25.

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Terry Oregon wrote:

Hank has given me permission to post a link to the AVR files he sent me (it’s a zip file).  There are a lot of zipped files – and you will need to know what to do with them. This was uploaded to my Mediafire account (Hank has problems using google docs in China).


http://www.mediafire.com/folder/ikdiocyfn20zg/Hank-Files


Hank’s link to google drive is working but if the link is just copy/paste as text, the forum is turning it into a link but changes a character in the process which makes it not working.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XEVlyF9×5atOdHOB9PVObWHJOJ6_dEaq/view

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Johm wrote:
I would get me one of these… with ANDROIL or ANDUROID.

Android, Android… What about flashing the firmware using an Android phone? And indeed, someone compiled avrdude for Android and wrapped it in a nice GUI: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ru.zdevs.zflasheravr

You just need a USB OTG adapter, select the correct parameters and press GO! Here is a screenshot of what you have to configure:

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Dang it . I was just going to leave mine alone . I never use muggle mode , so for me , no problem . After reading all the discussion on the the subject , I realize that’s not a good idea . Once I’m gone , my kids are gonna throw all my stuff out , and who knows where this light will end up .

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Just wanna add this to the discussion. If you’re more of a GUI person, and less command line. AVRdudeess might be for you.
I use it when i flash my flashlights
The “detect” button in the top right is very handy. press this to detect MCU/confirm connection. To make sure the clip/pins is correctly connected
And I checked, it’s ATtiny1634 compatible Big Smile

source link

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I did go into my AVR Studio and found the t1634 chip there, did not occur to me that AVR Dude might not have it! Thanks Terry for getting to the bottom of this error. Wink

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srvctec wrote:

 

BabyDoc wrote:
Hank, When and how do we begin ordering these flashing kits? Will you be reaching out via email to everyone with a first batch light, so they will have the first chance to order at the lower price? (BTW, I have two of these muggle bugged DV2s,and have not yet gotten a email warning me about the problem. I hope that I am the exception.)

 


 

FritzHID wrote:
[i’m in the same boat. haven’t heard anything on the glitch in my email. would also like to order my reflash kit asap. this is a great light, with an awesome UI….. when the glitches are worked out so i’d like to get mine in full, proper working order as well. (My 69th post, giggity)

 


The answer is just a few posts above.


 


Hank Wang wrote:
Yes, the regular price is $18.5, the D4V2 owers can buy the kist at $8.5 per one including registered shipping, the cost of the kits is not high, the mian cost is the time to solder the pins onto the pcb precisely, and test them working before shipping. Basically, all the D4V2 shipped before July, 19 are with muggle mode bug, so, those D4V2 owers can leave their order number and they will buy the kits at $8.5 per one.

I am sorry, but Hank’s post does NOT explain how or when we can begin to order these kits.
1. Will we need to wait until the kits appear on int-outdoor.com?

2. Or will we need to message him with our order number and request a kit? Then when he OKs it, pay via PayPal?

3. Or will Hank be reaching out to each person with a muggle bugged D4v2 via email to let them know they are eligible to buy a kit? Then request them to pay via PayPal to confirm with their order number?

In other words, how and when can we begin ordering these kits? Knowing that the kits will take some time to get to their destination, most of us would like to order theirs as soon as possible.

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SammysHP wrote:

Android, Android… What about flashing the firmware using an Android phone? And indeed, someone compiled avrdude for Android and wrapped it in a nice GUI: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ru.zdevs.zflasheravr

You just need a USB OTG adapter, select the correct parameters and press GO! Here is a screenshot of what you have to configure:

Just tested it with Convoy driver and ATTiny13 and it works perfect!
Thank you! Thumbs Up

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BabyDoc wrote:
 I am sorry, but Hank's post does NOT explain how or when we can begin to order these kits. 1. Will we need to wait until the kits appear on int-outdoor.com? 2. Or will we need to message him with our order number and request a kit? Then when he OKs it, pay via PayPal? 3. Or will Hank be reaching out to each person with a muggle bugged D4v2 via email to let them know they are eligible to buy a kit? Then request them to pay via PayPal to confirm with their order number? In other words, how and when can we begin ordering these kits? Knowing that the kits will take some time to get to their destination, most of us would like to order theirs as soon as possible.

I realize we live in a near instant gratification society but I'm absolutely positive that Hank will give us the details once he has them all ironed out. Why wouldn't he? It seems pointless to me to keep asking when the kits will be ready (not just you but several others as well), how to order them and all the other details that don't really matter until the kits are ready and Hank is ready to sell them. This lack of patience reminds me of little kids in the back seat of the car when traveling, asking "Are we there yet?", "How long until we get there?", "How come we're not there yet?", "Why is it taking so long to get there?". My dad would always say "We'll get there when we get there!". I could go on and on but you get the point (I hope). How does repeatedly asking help the situation? Do you think it makes Hank work faster? I think not. He's going as fast as he can.  He even eluded to that in one of his posts that they were working on it non-stop except for sleep.

 

The kits and details on exactly how to order them willl be ready when he gets them ready. I'm just sitting back and being patient. 

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I downloaded AVRDUDE V6.3 and had no issue re-flashing my D4V2. Works fine and now has the latest firmware. Soldered 32ga leads directly to the driver and to my USBASP devices Pomona clip. Once the t1634 was recognized it was but a few seconds of flash time. Thanks TK, and thanks to those that found out why my AVRdude wasn’t recognizing the chip used. Wink

Edit: For clarity, I unzipped the V6.3 and then copy and pasted the EXE and CONF files into my existing .bin folder where AVRdude already resided. No problemo.

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The first runtime graph is before the firmware update. 

The second is after the firmware update.

I also installed a battery charged to 15%, then turned the light off for one hour, no turn-on.

Everything looks good.

I did notice one other change. The max brightness in muggle mode is now higher. Per my Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube, I now get 420 lumens at the top of the ramp (after update) vs 320 lumens before update (about a 25% increase). This is with the frosted optic 10623. With the clear lens, it will be about 15% higher (about 485 lumens).  Note the lumens readings on the first graph were with the clear optic, which doesn't compare directly with the second graph (frosted optic).

Edit update. It has come to my attention that there was a firmware update specifically for the Nichia emitter option (which mine has). After reflashing again with the correct Nichia hex file, I now get a max of 300 lumens in muggle mode, bringing it back to what it was before the update. The firmware update for Nichia throttles down the max output a bit.

 

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

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Oh, and TK? The new reset function is radically cool! Big Smile

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srvctec wrote:

BabyDoc wrote:
 I am sorry, but Hank’s post does NOT explain how or when we can begin to order these kits. 1. Will we need to wait until the kits appear on int-outdoor.com? 2. Or will we need to message him with our order number and request a kit? Then when he OKs it, pay via PayPal? 3. Or will Hank be reaching out to each person with a muggle bugged D4v2 via email to let them know they are eligible to buy a kit? Then request them to pay via PayPal to confirm with their order number? In other words, how and when can we begin ordering these kits? Knowing that the kits will take some time to get to their destination, most of us would like to order theirs as soon as possible.

I realize we live in a near instant gratification society but I’m absolutely positive that Hank will give us the details once he has them all ironed out. Why wouldn’t he? It seems pointless to me to keep asking when the kits will be ready (not just you but several others as well), how to order them and all the other details that don’t really matter until the kits are ready and Hank is ready to sell them. This lack of patience reminds me of little kids in the back seat of the car when traveling, asking “Are we there yet?”, “How long until we get there?”, “How come we’re not there yet?”, “Why is it taking so long to get there?”. My dad would always say “We’ll get there when we get there!”. I could go on and on but you get the point (I hope). How does repeatedly asking help the situation? Do you think it makes Hank work faster? I think not. He’s going as fast as he can.  He even eluded to that in one of his posts that they were working on it non-stop except for sleep.


 


The kits and details on exactly how to order them willl be ready when he gets them ready. I’m just sitting back and being patient. 


I wasn’t asking you for your opinion on my asking Hank my questions. When he has time, Hank will answer. If he is too busy making kits and has no time to view our questions here, I think we all will understand. I know he already has some kits ready to ship, but perhaps not all of them to meet the demand. (BTW, I am no kid. In fact, I am 76 years old and I am far from being part of the immediate gratification generation.)
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Another For-The-Record…

Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers. Big Smile The Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters are making (with spring bypasses) 4820 lumens on a freshly charged Molicel P26A. Even the Efest 1000mAh 18500 does 4030 lumens at start. Ok, I like it. lol

Edit: and just another little factoid… when I calibrated my light box to Maukka’s calibration lights I used diffusion film taken from a Samsung 26” monitor in order to get the meter to read actual numbers with no multiplier. To get this to come out right it ended up about 2-3% low, which I went ahead and accepted for ease of use. So that means I’m actually getting something close to 5000 lumens out the front on the fully charged Molicel, for whatever that is worth. It drops fast with the thermal protection settling down around 1370 lumens and stabilized.

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Quote:
Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers

That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I'm seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.

 

Oh, I didn't think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second at turn-on) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got 3,000 lumens (for a second at turn-on).

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

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Terry Oregon wrote:

Quote:
Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers

That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I’m seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.


 


Oh, I didn’t think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got only briefly get 3,000 lumens.


Wasn’t the Nichia limitation put into the firmware to help protect the Nichia LEDs from current overload resulting in damage or shorter life? How can one put that limitation back after reflashing or perhaps, it really isn’t needed?
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BabyDoc wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:

Quote:
Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers

That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I'm seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.

 

Oh, I didn't think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got only briefly get 3,000 lumens.

Wasn't the Nichia limitation put into the firmware to help protect the Nichia LEDs from current overload resulting in damage or shorter life? How can one put that limitation back after reflashing or perhaps, it really isn't needed?

Don't know, but hoping ToyKeeper can clarify.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

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kazibole wrote:
There is a separate firmware for the Nichas: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex

From the date of this file, can we assume it contains the factory reset feature and removes the muggle bug?
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Terry Oregon wrote:
Before I go wiring everything up (I have all the hardware now), I want to confirm the silk-screen labeling.

Here’s the layout:



RESETGND
VCCSCKMISOMOSI

Every D4V2 has Japanese seasoning built-in, that’s awesome. Silly

I can’t picture myself doing all that stuff with the wire harness, pins, and software. I don’t think anyone would want to see me do any flashing. Maybe 40 years ago, Wink but not now. LOL

== We save the planet from darkness ==

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Quote:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 5.80s

avrdude: verifying …
avrdude: 9112 bytes of flash verified

avrdude done. Thank you.

It wasn’t easy but it’s done. I’ll post in the Oshpark ProgKey thread about my experience putting it together. It’s tricky holding this thing in place with the wires twisted and stiff. Having a USB extension cable would help a lot as well as having one via on each row.

My AVR Tools version was fine but i’ve only been flashing things for a year or less so that’s probably why.

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Once I’ve gathered the pieces and successfully flashed two D4V2’s (mine and a friend’s), I’d be happy to help others. Located in UT. Not sure how much it’d cost to ship the D4V2’s head though. For anyone that’s close enough, could meet somewhere as well. I got mine from MTN and it’s the pre-production version without muggle mode. My friend got his from Hank and it’s got the bug.

And a thank you to TK and Hank for being transparent about this. It’s refreshing to see a company (& TK) that is open about things like this rather than keep quiet about it and deal with the fallout one at a time.

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Y’all do the reset yet?

Love it! Big Smile

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I did the thermal cal and thermal setting again - under the assumption it was lost when reflashing ?

 

Also, was there a list of other changes to the latest firmware?  I was not aware of the so-called "Nichia limitation" change.

My reviews: , My personal collection of lights LINK,  J5 Tactical V1 Pro review LINK,  Thirteen Optical Sensors review LINKZebralight SC700d review LINK,  Ray-O-Vac Super Power Sportsman review LINK,  Convoy S2+ color combos LINK,  How To flash D4V2 LINK,  Convoy S21A LINK

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Do the reset, unscrew the tube slightly then hold the button down while screwing the tube back in. Really cool! I shot a video but can’t figure out how to upload it, seems something has changed in the last couple of months with YouTube…

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