I did go into my AVR Studio and found the t1634 chip there, did not occur to me that AVR Dude might not have it! Thanks Terry for getting to the bottom of this error. 
I am sorry, but Hank’s post does NOT explain how or when we can begin to order these kits.
- Will we need to wait until the kits appear on int-outdoor.com?
2. Or will we need to message him with our order number and request a kit? Then when he OKs it, pay via PayPal?
3. Or will Hank be reaching out to each person with a muggle bugged D4v2 via email to let them know they are eligible to buy a kit? Then request them to pay via PayPal to confirm with their order number?
In other words, how and when can we begin ordering these kits? Knowing that the kits will take some time to get to their destination, most of us would like to order theirs as soon as possible.
Just tested it with Convoy driver and ATTiny13 and it works perfect!
Thank you!
I realize we live in a near instant gratification society but I'm absolutely positive that Hank will give us the details once he has them all ironed out. Why wouldn't he? It seems pointless to me to keep asking when the kits will be ready (not just you but several others as well), how to order them and all the other details that don't really matter until the kits are ready and Hank is ready to sell them. This lack of patience reminds me of little kids in the back seat of the car when traveling, asking "Are we there yet?", "How long until we get there?", "How come we're not there yet?", "Why is it taking so long to get there?". My dad would always say "We'll get there when we get there!". I could go on and on but you get the point (I hope). How does repeatedly asking help the situation? Do you think it makes Hank work faster? I think not. He's going as fast as he can. He even eluded to that in one of his posts that they were working on it non-stop except for sleep.
The kits and details on exactly how to order them willl be ready when he gets them ready. I'm just sitting back and being patient.
I downloaded AVRDUDE V6.3 and had no issue re-flashing my D4V2. Works fine and now has the latest firmware. Soldered 32ga leads directly to the driver and to my USBASP devices Pomona clip. Once the t1634 was recognized it was but a few seconds of flash time. Thanks TK, and thanks to those that found out why my AVRdude wasn’t recognizing the chip used.
Edit: For clarity, I unzipped the V6.3 and then copy and pasted the EXE and CONF files into my existing .bin folder where AVRdude already resided. No problemo.
The first runtime graph is before the firmware update.
The second is after the firmware update.
I also installed a battery charged to 15%, then turned the light off for one hour, no turn-on.
Everything looks good.
I did notice one other change. The max brightness in muggle mode is now higher. Per my Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube, I now get 420 lumens at the top of the ramp (after update) vs 320 lumens before update (about a 25% increase). This is with the frosted optic 10623. With the clear lens, it will be about 15% higher (about 485 lumens). Note the lumens readings on the first graph were with the clear optic, which doesn't compare directly with the second graph (frosted optic).
Edit update. It has come to my attention that there was a firmware update specifically for the Nichia emitter option (which mine has). After reflashing again with the correct Nichia hex file, I now get a max of 300 lumens in muggle mode, bringing it back to what it was before the update. The firmware update for Nichia throttles down the max output a bit.
Oh, and TK? The new reset function is radically cool! 
I wasn’t asking you for your opinion on my asking Hank my questions. When he has time, Hank will answer. If he is too busy making kits and has no time to view our questions here, I think we all will understand. I know he already has some kits ready to ship, but perhaps not all of them to meet the demand. (BTW, I am no kid. In fact, I am 76 years old and I am far from being part of the immediate gratification generation.)
Another For-The-Record…
Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers. The Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters are making (with spring bypasses) 4820 lumens on a freshly charged Molicel P26A. Even the Efest 1000mAh 18500 does 4030 lumens at start. Ok, I like it. lol
Edit: and just another little factoid… when I calibrated my light box to Maukka’s calibration lights I used diffusion film taken from a Samsung 26” monitor in order to get the meter to read actual numbers with no multiplier. To get this to come out right it ended up about 2-3% low, which I went ahead and accepted for ease of use. So that means I’m actually getting something close to 5000 lumens out the front on the fully charged Molicel, for whatever that is worth. It drops fast with the thermal protection settling down around 1370 lumens and stabilized.
That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I'm seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.
Oh, I didn't think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second at turn-on) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got 3,000 lumens (for a second at turn-on).
Wasn’t the Nichia limitation put into the firmware to help protect the Nichia LEDs from current overload resulting in damage or shorter life? How can one put that limitation back after reflashing or perhaps, it really isn’t needed?
Don't know, but hoping ToyKeeper can clarify.
There is a separate firmware for the Nichas: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
From the date of this file, can we assume it contains the factory reset feature and removes the muggle bug?
Every D4V2 has Japanese seasoning built-in, that’s awesome. 
I can’t picture myself doing all that stuff with the wire harness, pins, and software. I don’t think anyone would want to see me do any flashing. Maybe 40 years ago, but not now. :laughing:
It wasn’t easy but it’s done. I’ll post in the Oshpark ProgKey thread about my experience putting it together. It’s tricky holding this thing in place with the wires twisted and stiff. Having a USB extension cable would help a lot as well as having one via on each row.
My AVR Tools version was fine but i’ve only been flashing things for a year or less so that’s probably why.
Once I’ve gathered the pieces and successfully flashed two D4V2’s (mine and a friend’s), I’d be happy to help others. Located in UT. Not sure how much it’d cost to ship the D4V2’s head though. For anyone that’s close enough, could meet somewhere as well. I got mine from MTN and it’s the pre-production version without muggle mode. My friend got his from Hank and it’s got the bug.
And a thank you to TK and Hank for being transparent about this. It’s refreshing to see a company (& TK) that is open about things like this rather than keep quiet about it and deal with the fallout one at a time.
Y’all do the reset yet?
Love it!
I did the thermal cal and thermal setting again - under the assumption it was lost when reflashing ?
Also, was there a list of other changes to the latest firmware? I was not aware of the so-called "Nichia limitation" change.
Do the reset, unscrew the tube slightly then hold the button down while screwing the tube back in. Really cool! I shot a video but can’t figure out how to upload it, seems something has changed in the last couple of months with YouTube…