TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Oh, and TK? The new reset function is radically cool! :smiley:

I wasn’t asking you for your opinion on my asking Hank my questions. When he has time, Hank will answer. If he is too busy making kits and has no time to view our questions here, I think we all will understand. I know he already has some kits ready to ship, but perhaps not all of them to meet the demand. (BTW, I am no kid. In fact, I am 76 years old and I am far from being part of the immediate gratification generation.)

Another For-The-Record…

Since reflashing eliminated the Nichia limitation, I am now seeing much higher output numbers. :smiley: The Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters are making (with spring bypasses) 4820 lumens on a freshly charged Molicel P26A. Even the Efest 1000mAh 18500 does 4030 lumens at start. Ok, I like it. lol

Edit: and just another little factoid… when I calibrated my light box to Maukka’s calibration lights I used diffusion film taken from a Samsung 26” monitor in order to get the meter to read actual numbers with no multiplier. To get this to come out right it ended up about 2-3% low, which I went ahead and accepted for ease of use. So that means I’m actually getting something close to 5000 lumens out the front on the fully charged Molicel, for whatever that is worth. It drops fast with the thermal protection settling down around 1370 lumens and stabilized.

That might explain the 25% increase in output (muggle mode) that I'm seeing. My D4V2 does have the Nichia option.

Oh, I didn't think to measure the output in turbo mode. Sure enough, I get (for a second at turn-on) 3,400 lumens. Before the update, I got 3,000 lumens (for a second at turn-on).

Wasn’t the Nichia limitation put into the firmware to help protect the Nichia LEDs from current overload resulting in damage or shorter life? How can one put that limitation back after reflashing or perhaps, it really isn’t needed?

Don't know, but hoping ToyKeeper can clarify.

There is a separate firmware for the Nichas: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex

From the date of this file, can we assume it contains the factory reset feature and removes the muggle bug?

Every D4V2 has Japanese seasoning built-in, that’s awesome. :stuck_out_tongue:

I can’t picture myself doing all that stuff with the wire harness, pins, and software. I don’t think anyone would want to see me do any flashing. Maybe 40 years ago, :wink: but not now. :laughing:

It wasn’t easy but it’s done. I’ll post in the Oshpark ProgKey thread about my experience putting it together. It’s tricky holding this thing in place with the wires twisted and stiff. Having a USB extension cable would help a lot as well as having one via on each row.

My AVR Tools version was fine but i’ve only been flashing things for a year or less so that’s probably why.

Once I’ve gathered the pieces and successfully flashed two D4V2’s (mine and a friend’s), I’d be happy to help others. Located in UT. Not sure how much it’d cost to ship the D4V2’s head though. For anyone that’s close enough, could meet somewhere as well. I got mine from MTN and it’s the pre-production version without muggle mode. My friend got his from Hank and it’s got the bug.

And a thank you to TK and Hank for being transparent about this. It’s refreshing to see a company (& TK) that is open about things like this rather than keep quiet about it and deal with the fallout one at a time.

Y’all do the reset yet?

Love it! :smiley:

I did the thermal cal and thermal setting again - under the assumption it was lost when reflashing ?

Also, was there a list of other changes to the latest firmware? I was not aware of the so-called "Nichia limitation" change.

Do the reset, unscrew the tube slightly then hold the button down while screwing the tube back in. Really cool! I shot a video but can’t figure out how to upload it, seems something has changed in the last couple of months with YouTube…

The limitation of Nichia emitters was set at some 85% of full power on the FET as far as I can remember… this was because they trend towards making a lot more heat and can self destruct. The primary .hex file is NOT for the Nichia emitters, full power for the XP-L’s and such. Since I swapped my Nichia’s out for Samsungs I was wanting to get rid of the limitation anyway, this worked out perfectly in my case.

Did you flash the Nichia specific firmware? http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex

I think the thermal code is good enough to handle full power Nichia. After all we have been making FET Nichia triples forever.

I did not. I was not aware of this other file. I'd like to have ToyKeeper confirm the necessity of using this file on my D4V2.

When I first built my Titanium Reylight X6 with 4 Nichia’s it pulled 21A from a single 18650 and made 4300 lumens, got hotter than Hades very quickly! I rebuilt it fairly quickly omitting the Nichia’s. Ironically, it now houses 4 XHP-50.2’s and uses 2 18350’s to makes something over 10,000 lumens. Go figure.

ToyKeeper states, in post number 89 under the heading Configuration, that the Nichia firmware is limited to 75% in Turbo to prevent it doing damage to itself.

Specifically…

The ceiling level is configurable, but double click while on goes to full turbo. To change that level, you’d need to modify the firmware.

On the Nichia 219 model though, turbo is limited to 75% power. This is to reduce the risk of the light damaging itself.