There is a separate firmware for the Nichas: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
From the date of this file, can we assume it contains the factory reset feature and removes the muggle bug?
Every D4V2 has Japanese seasoning built-in, that’s awesome. 
I can’t picture myself doing all that stuff with the wire harness, pins, and software. I don’t think anyone would want to see me do any flashing. Maybe 40 years ago, 
but not now. :laughing:
It wasn’t easy but it’s done. I’ll post in the Oshpark ProgKey thread about my experience putting it together. It’s tricky holding this thing in place with the wires twisted and stiff. Having a USB extension cable would help a lot as well as having one via on each row.
My AVR Tools version was fine but i’ve only been flashing things for a year or less so that’s probably why.
Once I’ve gathered the pieces and successfully flashed two D4V2’s (mine and a friend’s), I’d be happy to help others. Located in UT. Not sure how much it’d cost to ship the D4V2’s head though. For anyone that’s close enough, could meet somewhere as well. I got mine from MTN and it’s the pre-production version without muggle mode. My friend got his from Hank and it’s got the bug.
And a thank you to TK and Hank for being transparent about this. It’s refreshing to see a company (& TK) that is open about things like this rather than keep quiet about it and deal with the fallout one at a time.
Y’all do the reset yet?
Love it! 
I did the thermal cal and thermal setting again - under the assumption it was lost when reflashing ?
Also, was there a list of other changes to the latest firmware? I was not aware of the so-called "Nichia limitation" change.
Do the reset, unscrew the tube slightly then hold the button down while screwing the tube back in. Really cool! I shot a video but can’t figure out how to upload it, seems something has changed in the last couple of months with YouTube…
The limitation of Nichia emitters was set at some 85% of full power on the FET as far as I can remember… this was because they trend towards making a lot more heat and can self destruct. The primary .hex file is NOT for the Nichia emitters, full power for the XP-L’s and such. Since I swapped my Nichia’s out for Samsungs I was wanting to get rid of the limitation anyway, this worked out perfectly in my case.
Did you flash the Nichia specific firmware? http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
I think the thermal code is good enough to handle full power Nichia. After all we have been making FET Nichia triples forever.
I did not. I was not aware of this other file. I'd like to have ToyKeeper confirm the necessity of using this file on my D4V2.
When I first built my Titanium Reylight X6 with 4 Nichia’s it pulled 21A from a single 18650 and made 4300 lumens, got hotter than Hades very quickly! I rebuilt it fairly quickly omitting the Nichia’s. Ironically, it now houses 4 XHP-50.2’s and uses 2 18350’s to makes something over 10,000 lumens. Go figure.
ToyKeeper states, in post number 89 under the heading Configuration, that the Nichia firmware is limited to 75% in Turbo to prevent it doing damage to itself.
Specifically…
The ceiling level is configurable, but double click while on goes to full turbo. To change that level, you’d need to modify the firmware.
On the Nichia 219 model though, turbo is limited to 75% power. This is to reduce the risk of the light damaging itself.
Interesting, so even the original firmware was slightly different from the non Nichia models?
I think it was done in the original D4 as well, it was discovered that some of the Nichia emitters were frying themselves at full power on the small light. I was sent a warning through PM by a friend here when I stated that I ordered this light with Nichia’s, he knew I like full power and reminded me of this revision. I wasn’t worried about it as it was the rainbow auxillaries that drew me in anyway. Ultimately I changed emitters and welcomed the switch back to full power when I reflashed it this morning.
Edit: It’s pretty well known here that I leave very few lights stock. I try, but what can I say?
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
I reflashed my D4V2 again, using the Nichia specific firmware. Sure enough, that brings down the max lumens values to what I saw before the update.
If I understand correctly, it should be easier on a Mac. I don’t have one to test on, but I think the process is something like this…
… and then it should be able to run avrdude commands in a terminal. If it’s a new enough version.
So far, it looks like the options are:
- Windows (7 / 8 / 10)
- zadig + a recent avrdude
- libusb + a recent avrdude
- avrdudess?
- a recent version of AVR Studio?
- Windows 10
- Windows Subsystem for Linux? (plus “apt install avrdude” and some commands in a Linux container)
- Mac
- “brew install avrdude” ?
- other?
- Linux
- Debian: apt install avrdude
- Red Hat: dnf install avrdude
- Android
- ZFlasher AVR w/ USB OTG adapter
I’ll definitely need help with documenting the easiest ways to reflash from each major operating system.
It’s changed by default, for all build targets which don’t set their own value. And none of the builds in the repository set a value, so they’re all a little faster now.
All configuration is lost when reflashing, including the temperature calibration.
So after doing the reflash, it’s a good idea to do a factory reset. Let the light settle to room temperature, then hold the button while tightening the tailcap to connect power. Then keep holding for ~3 seconds until it does a bright flash.
After that, the temperature sensor should be calibrated and the light is ready to use.
While waiting for a double mochiatto frappachino at starbucks.
I have a Mac around here somewhere… If I have a spare moment this week, I’ll flash something with it to verify the process and write something up. I have some aux boards from Lexel for the FW3A coming in, so maybe I’ll try it for one of those installs. It’ll be a while before I get my HQ programming keys… I had to re-order them with the correct thickness. The process for flashing an FW3A is basically the same though, as long as the version of avrdude is new enough.