What did you mod today?

I may do that some night this week. I used 4000K V2 and 4000K Luxeon V (and I also have those in my D4), and the beam consistency and tint is the same to my eyes. Other than the rings on the RRT-01, but that's not the Luxeon V's fault.

Unless you need CRI, you'll like the Luxeons.

Liking this cheapo headlight a lot after 2 days. Wasn’t fully charged on day one but got a couple hours out of it on Hi. Was doing a lot of work, laying on my back, under a car the other day and it did not fall off. Clutch job on a 1968 Mercedes 220.
My H03 does not stay on my head laying under a car and that is really annoying to loose the light in the middle of a task with hands full. Not certain of the run time on Hi but it is a few hours, possibly 4 hours with the L1V2.

Too much text to read…

Have a break then come back to it, little & often is the way to go.

That might be directed at me :person_facepalming:
TL;DR for my post: Swapped emitters in D25C Ti and Jetbeam RRT-01. Copper dust everywhere. Luxeon V (2) is the best.

Swapped a 4300K (T6-4C) XM-L2 into a Olight S1R Turbo S. Super happy with the mod.

FW3A SST20 2700k with the black paint on the clip sanded off (220 - 1000 grit)

Convoy S2+ Triple BLF A6 Driver/LH351D 4000K with hand sanded J-Dub74 clip sent through a “rock tumbler” (Gatorade bottle + water + broken mug + variable speed hand drill contraception)

Empty Ultrafire A100 clone. First attempt at sanding/polishing on something cheap. Currently awaiting polishing materials. I guess ‘polishing a turd’ is applicable here.

Tomorrow starts camping with the family so I hacked a lantern mod from a Supfire A6, an optic from a Philips household bulb, a perspex washer made to size, a Virens two-pad board, a 1800K 90 CRI Luminus Cube led and a 2x7135 biscotti driver.

I did not manage to finish it with a nice roof and hanging hook, that will have to wait till after the trip. It will do a good job already as it is. :slight_smile:

What no Anduril candle mode? :frowning:

No arms, no chocolate.
No side switch, no anduril.

You say that like its beyond djozz to frankencandle some switch on there. Love finds a way

Candle mode would be appropriate but also a bit kitch, may as well bring a couple of those flickering coin cell led-tealights on vacation. (not the worst idea probably, the family would love that :person_facepalming: )

FW3A? :wink:

Did the “Skilhunt H03 mod”. New Lexel driver that runs Anduril. yay :heart_eyes:

While in the zone, I decided that the red indicator led in the button had to be changed (red = dead). went with a orange.
This had a rather hilarious outcome.

On the low setting the light draws 0,095mA
On the high setting the light draws 37,2mA :laughing:
And on ramping flor the 219C 4000K draws 1,74mA.

So yea, that orange 0603 led is hella bright, and hella inefficient at high.

Some more Emisar D4 and D4v2 lego:

This is:

  • White Emisar D4 head and tailcap
  • Gold D4V2 bezel and body tube
  • Anduril UI with aux led control
  • Lexel bezel LED board with purple and blue LEDs
  • Rubber switch boot replaced with metal switch boot.
  • Emitters: 2x 4000K XPL HI and 2x 5000K XPL HI

I have used one orange switch LED in a S2+ and experienced the same, it drained a full charged cell (only slightly used a couple of times) in 4,5 months

Haha cool. Still way better than this. At 37mA it’ll drain it’s 3500mAh battery in four days :smiley: :person_facepalming:

vwpieces was a bit faster :stuck_out_tongue:
Today My post delivery guy brought be a glowing package. Inside was a cardbordbox with this cheap hedlamp. It was dam hot but not damaged.
I bought it to upgrade the light on my magnifying glasses. I build something jears ago out of a chap boost driver with a XPG and a tir. But the 2 AA batterys are empty fast. So i was searching for a new option. And this cheap one with internal battery is my victim. But because the led is something terribly white i cut a 20mm XP board to size and put my last 5000K LH351D on it.
Small notice for all that want to do this. On my light + and - are switched. Usually i measure it before soldering anything but this time not. So i had to desolder the board and reflow the led.
Not a huge amount of work but i could have prevented it. I will also add a diffusion film on the glass because i will use the light on very short distances.
First pic is the magnifying glasses i bought the light for. I also added a real leather cover on the headband a year ago.

I forgot to take a pic bevore i dissasembled the light :person_facepalming:

Not often do i get glowing packages delivered

I did not expect to find a 1200mA battery. For about 5€ i expected something with 500 or 750mA.

Original the led is soldet to a aluminium MCPCB I have seen worse

And the front side

Now with a 90CRI LH351D on a Noctigon 20mm XP board thas was cut to size

And the front

Tomorrow i will have to grind a bit on the plastic holder to make it fit to my magnifying hadband
But the color is much better and because the die is bigger i now have a softer hotspot.

D4v2 LED change

LH351D 2700K + 5000K 90CRI

3631K - 3882K Duv right around 0.0 w/ AR lens. In another post I measured the stock D4v2 lens vs a plain lens to increase the Duv by approx .001 (not bad compared to FW3A lens)

3,876lm at 0s (18.xx amps w/ VTC5D)



As expected fitting the wires back through the holes is tricky as well as neatly re-soldering the leads back on. Some of the insulation made a sacrifice on the positive wire. A plus is that most of the wires seemed like they had a bit of slack stuffed in the driver cavity.

Is the metal switch any more prone to pocket scorching?