No arms, no chocolate.
No side switch, no anduril.
You say that like its beyond djozz to frankencandle some switch on there. Love finds a way
Candle mode would be appropriate but also a bit kitch, may as well bring a couple of those flickering coin cell led-tealights on vacation. (not the worst idea probably, the family would love that 
)
FW3A? 
Did the “Skilhunt H03 mod”. New Lexel driver that runs Anduril. yay 
While in the zone, I decided that the red indicator led in the button had to be changed (red = dead). went with a orange.
This had a rather hilarious outcome.
On the low setting the light draws 0,095mA
On the high setting the light draws 37,2mA 
And on ramping flor the 219C 4000K draws 1,74mA.
So yea, that orange 0603 led is hella bright, and hella inefficient at high.
Some more Emisar D4 and D4v2 lego:
This is:
- White Emisar D4 head and tailcap
- Gold D4V2 bezel and body tube
- Anduril UI with aux led control
- Lexel bezel LED board with purple and blue LEDs
- Rubber switch boot replaced with metal switch boot.
- Emitters: 2x 4000K XPL HI and 2x 5000K XPL HI
I have used one orange switch LED in a S2+ and experienced the same, it drained a full charged cell (only slightly used a couple of times) in 4,5 months
Haha cool. Still way better than this. At 37mA it’ll drain it’s 3500mAh battery in four days 
:person_facepalming:
vwpieces was a bit faster 
Today My post delivery guy brought be a glowing package. Inside was a cardbordbox with this cheap hedlamp. It was dam hot but not damaged.
I bought it to upgrade the light on my magnifying glasses. I build something jears ago out of a chap boost driver with a XPG and a tir. But the 2 AA batterys are empty fast. So i was searching for a new option. And this cheap one with internal battery is my victim. But because the led is something terribly white i cut a 20mm XP board to size and put my last 5000K LH351D on it.
Small notice for all that want to do this. On my light + and - are switched. Usually i measure it before soldering anything but this time not. So i had to desolder the board and reflow the led.
Not a huge amount of work but i could have prevented it. I will also add a diffusion film on the glass because i will use the light on very short distances.
First pic is the magnifying glasses i bought the light for. I also added a real leather cover on the headband a year ago.
I forgot to take a pic bevore i dissasembled the light
Not often do i get glowing packages delivered
I did not expect to find a 1200mA battery. For about 5€ i expected something with 500 or 750mA.
Original the led is soldet to a aluminium MCPCB I have seen worse
And the front side
Now with a 90CRI LH351D on a Noctigon 20mm XP board thas was cut to size
And the front
Tomorrow i will have to grind a bit on the plastic holder to make it fit to my magnifying hadband
But the color is much better and because the die is bigger i now have a softer hotspot.
D4v2 LED change
LH351D 2700K + 5000K 90CRI
3631K - 3882K Duv right around 0.0 w/ AR lens. In another post I measured the stock D4v2 lens vs a plain lens to increase the Duv by approx .001 (not bad compared to FW3A lens)
3,876lm at 0s (18.xx amps w/ VTC5D)
As expected fitting the wires back through the holes is tricky as well as neatly re-soldering the leads back on. Some of the insulation made a sacrifice on the positive wire. A plus is that most of the wires seemed like they had a bit of slack stuffed in the driver cavity.
Is the metal switch any more prone to pocket scorching?
Nice! That must have become an enormous goodlooking flood :sunglasses:
Especially during that minute or so of testing where you have it set up as a mule.
I was a little surprised though cause it seems less floody than my E2L triple 10507. That one has such a round defined hotspot you would think it was an aspheric lens but the quad doesn’t have that effect.
Modified some old brass compression fittings.
Do you need a spanner to change modes ?
You use the anti-roll lever obviously
No, this one has a tail clicky switch
Don’t be silly ,that would mess up the flux capacitor.
The metal switch boot is a fairly simple mod.
- I cut a circle of Silicone sheet the same diameter as the original boot. Then I cut a circle of aluminum sheet for the switchboot and rounded the upper edges.
- I attached a tiny blob of super glue on the bottom center of the silicone right over the button. This makes the switch easy to press and ensures you can feel the click when you press it.
- I then placed the silicone disk into position with the retaining ring.
- Finally I glued the circle of aluminum into position. Taking care to add more glue to fill the gaps.
- To ensure excellent glue adhesion I used the activator pen from a package of plastic super glue. With the activator, the glue sticks perfectly to silicone. The silicone will actually tear before the glue comes off.
- I also roughened up the bottom of the metal disk with a tungsten etcher for better grip.
- I used fiberfix optical super glue. This stuff is expensive and tends to dry up in the tube. But on the other hand you get instant results. The glue cures fully with 1-2 seconds of exposure to the blue LED in the back of the applicator.
The new metal switch boot is fully recessed below the retaining ring by about 1mm which provides a little protection from accidental activation. However , it does activate with a fairly soft touch. Overall, I think it’s slightly better for accidental pocket activation than the rubber switch boot, but can still activate accidentally. For more resistance to accidental activation, use thicker silicone and install a washer above the retaining ring.
Swapped out a CREE XM-L2 U4 1C de-domed emitter out of my Convoy C8 driven by 3.8 Amps and replaced it with a CREE XP-L HI V4 3C. The de-domed XM-L2 had experienced that unpleasant green tint shift that I swear increased the more it was used. The CREE XP-L HI V4 3C has a very satisfying neutral white tint that cuts the fog.