Just to confirm, every light ordered through International Outdoors after July 19 is safe? I’m literally about to pay for my order, and just want to double check.
Just to confirm, every light ordered through International Outdoors after July 19 is safe? I’m literally about to pay for my order, and just want to double check.
Straight from the Intl-Outdoor website:
D4V2 is shipped with the updated firmware since July, 19
Thanks Kazibole…
Reading comprehension was never one of my strong suites
What’s up with hank and not responding to emails or sending orders in a timely manner?
What’s up with hank and not responding to emails or sending orders in a timely manner?
He posted earlier that he is focused on getting the programming kits ready.
That may have been over in Toykeeper’s review thread.
Just joined this thread so don’t hate me (much) if this question was asked somewhere like 30 pages before…
Is 219C 5000K option 90CRI like solo emitters on Hanks site or it’s something else?
The 219C 5000K option is listed on Intl-Outdoor as 83 CRI.
I’m not sure if any other 219C versions are available. Regardless, it has a nice tint but also more heat and lower output.
anyone tried flashing their d4v2? Anyone seen or know why I get this error? A fellow BLF’s was helping out but thought I’d post here for increased d4v2 owner visibility.
CHECK CONNECTIVITY
C:\Users\user\Desktop>avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -n
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s
avrdude: Device signature = 0×1e9412
avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (H:1F, E:DE, L:E2)
avrdude done. Thank you.
FIRMWARE UPDATE
C:\Users\user\Desktop>avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.03s
avrdude: Device signature = 0×1e9412
avrdude: NOTE: “flash” memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: reading input file “anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex”
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (9122 bytes):Writing | ################################################## | 100% 7.08s
avrdude: 9122 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex:
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex contains 9122 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:Reading | ################################################## | 100% 5.24s
avrdude: verifying …
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0×0020 0xff != 0×0c
avrdude: verification error; content mismatchavrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (H:1F, E:DE, L:E2)
avrdude done. Thank you.
anyone tried flashing their d4v2? Anyone seen or know why I get this error? A fellow BLF’s was helping out but thought I’d post here for increased d4v2 owner visibility.
CHECK CONNECTIVITY
C:\Users\user\Desktop>avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -n
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s
avrdude: Device signature = 0×1e9412
avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (H:1F, E:DE, L:E2)
avrdude done. Thank you.
FIRMWARE UPDATE
C:\Users\user\Desktop>avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.03s
avrdude: Device signature = 0×1e9412
avrdude: NOTE: “flash” memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: reading input file “anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex”
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (9122 bytes):Writing | ################################################## | 100% 7.08s
avrdude: 9122 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex:
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: input file anduril.2019-08-05.emisar-d4v2-219.hex contains 9122 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:Reading | ################################################## | 100% 5.24s
avrdude: verifying …
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0×0020 0xff != 0×0c
avrdude: verification error; content mismatchavrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (H:1F, E:DE, L:E2)
avrdude done. Thank you.
yay! i finally found the problem. I’ll post it in the d4v2 firmware update thread.
Does anyones d4v2 make a high frequency noise on high? Also the noise is not so loud on turbo
BTW this is with a samsung 20R
It does not make this noise with an 18350 efest V2 High drain
Does anyones d4v2 make a high frequency noise on high? Also the noise is not so loud on turbo
BTW this is with a samsung 20R
It does not make this noise with an 18350 efest V2 High drain
Do you have a magnetic tail cap installed? Does it do it with the non-magnetic one as well?
Some of the talk around the issue was EM fields interfering and making magnetic tail or other small parts vibrate or resonate.
No magnetic tailcap I did not get it because I have a d4s with one to work on stuff with
I’ve done some research and it seems it’s quite commonplace wuth these lights having inductors
Has anybody had any luck putting the V2 stainless bezel on a V1 light?
I have a V1 and V2. The aluminum bezels can be easily swapped between the two. Stainless bezel threads onto the V2 easily, but won’t thread onto the V1. It goes on approx 1 turn and then stops, as if it’s the wrong thread pitch. I don’t think the threads are different though because the aluminum bezels interchange without an issue.
Has anybody had any luck putting the V2 stainless bezel on a V1 light?
I have a V1 and V2. The aluminum bezels can be easily swapped between the two. Stainless bezel threads onto the V2 easily, but won’t thread onto the V1. It goes on approx 1 turn and then stops, as if it’s the wrong thread pitch. I don’t think the threads are different though because the aluminum bezels interchange without an issue.
Are the threads trapezoidal in the V2 head and triangular in the V1 head?
I have an Early Cyan V1 and a V2 and neither the aluminum or stainless bezel from V2 not fit on my cyan V1.
G.P.:Has anybody had any luck putting the V2 stainless bezel on a V1 light?
I have a V1 and V2. The aluminum bezels can be easily swapped between the two. Stainless bezel threads onto the V2 easily, but won’t thread onto the V1. It goes on approx 1 turn and then stops, as if it’s the wrong thread pitch. I don’t think the threads are different though because the aluminum bezels interchange without an issue.
Are the threads trapezoidal in the V2 head and triangular in the V1 head?
That could be it. The threads do look a little different.
I have been carrying the D4V2 with raised switch ring in my front pants pocket all day long for one week now and just got my first spontaneous activation. This is much better than the V1 (with flat switch ring) that went nuclear twice in the first day. The max ramp of my V2 was set at 450 lumen so when I felt it warming up there was plenty time to notice and switch it off again.
This is what else is in the pocket:
Did you secretly sand your C01S down?
Did you secretly sand your C01S down?
No, this is the no-ano low-high version, it polishes itself to a nice shine having been in my pants for a few months.
I have been carrying the D4V2 with raised switch ring in my front pants pocket all day long for one week now and just got my first spontaneous activation. This is much better than the V1 (with flat switch ring) that went nuclear twice in the first day. The max ramp of my V2 was set at 450 lumen so when I felt it warming up there was plenty time to notice and switch it off again.
This is what else is in the pocket:
Quite a bit of stuff! That must create an interesting bulge in your pants….