Is the metal switch any more prone to pocket scorching?
Nice! That must have become an enormous goodlooking flood :sunglasses:
Especially during that minute or so of testing where you have it set up as a mule.
I was a little surprised though cause it seems less floody than my E2L triple 10507. That one has such a round defined hotspot you would think it was an aspheric lens but the quad doesn’t have that effect.
Modified some old brass compression fittings.
Do you need a spanner to change modes ?
You use the anti-roll lever obviously
No, this one has a tail clicky switch 
Don’t be silly ,that would mess up the flux capacitor.
The metal switch boot is a fairly simple mod.
- I cut a circle of Silicone sheet the same diameter as the original boot. Then I cut a circle of aluminum sheet for the switchboot and rounded the upper edges.
- I attached a tiny blob of super glue on the bottom center of the silicone right over the button. This makes the switch easy to press and ensures you can feel the click when you press it.
- I then placed the silicone disk into position with the retaining ring.
- Finally I glued the circle of aluminum into position. Taking care to add more glue to fill the gaps.
- To ensure excellent glue adhesion I used the activator pen from a package of plastic super glue. With the activator, the glue sticks perfectly to silicone. The silicone will actually tear before the glue comes off.
- I also roughened up the bottom of the metal disk with a tungsten etcher for better grip.
- I used fiberfix optical super glue. This stuff is expensive and tends to dry up in the tube. But on the other hand you get instant results. The glue cures fully with 1-2 seconds of exposure to the blue LED in the back of the applicator.
The new metal switch boot is fully recessed below the retaining ring by about 1mm which provides a little protection from accidental activation. However , it does activate with a fairly soft touch. Overall, I think it’s slightly better for accidental pocket activation than the rubber switch boot, but can still activate accidentally. For more resistance to accidental activation, use thicker silicone and install a washer above the retaining ring.
Swapped out a CREE XM-L2 U4 1C de-domed emitter out of my Convoy C8 driven by 3.8 Amps and replaced it with a CREE XP-L HI V4 3C. The de-domed XM-L2 had experienced that unpleasant green tint shift that I swear increased the more it was used. The CREE XP-L HI V4 3C has a very satisfying neutral white tint that cuts the fog.
This weekend I dropped a shaved dome LH351D 5000k into a stock Thorfire VG-10S for testing… Actually came out looking pretty good, not hard driven but a good solid light. So, now I have to learn to shave domes, other than mine! I will be trying my luck with this and dropping them in the FW3A, will be starting with 3 FD2’s.
I also reflowed a new tail switch spring into an old Niwalker C8 type light with a slightly larger reflector that is sporting a hi cri XHP-70.2. Runs on a pair of Aspire 18350’s. Good walking around light with a decent kick if you need it.
Between the bond wires and the output reduction the SST-20 is not the best/easy candidate for shaving. It’s already pretty throwy too
I mispoke… the ones I will shave are 5000k lh351d’s.
@mattlward
How did you like the tint of the LH351D 5000k after shaving it?
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I modded a TCR1 using a KD triple optic and 3 shaved LH351D’s 5000k 90cri. Bored the head slightly and made a heatsink so the optic sets flush with the head so the bezel screws done completely, also allows the use of the factory lens to protect the optic. Takes a little extra work but the shaved LH351d through the optic is absolutely gorgeous in my opinion. It produces one of the best tints I have ever seen, to me anyways. I like it better than my triple 219b sw45k. I have shaved several 5k 90cri LH351D’s and installed in single reflector lights that produce a nice slightly rosy tint but in the triple optic it really brings out the rosiness, possibly from the lower current to each led. I had a triple carclo optic in it to start with and it produced too wide of a hotspot for my liking, plus the tint wasn’t anything to brag about. That all changed when I installed the KD triple optic. I don’t know what magic is going on with the shaving and the KD optic but I truly like it. Produced 1022 lumens at start up with a resistor mod.
The light is attached to the Manifying glasses. Its not glued in place. I modded the original holder and glued it to the glasses. This way i can easy take out the light itself to repair it if necessary or mod it again. But i am waiting for some black glue (T-7000) to cover the red marked area to make it look a bit more pretty. And i used a bit of fine sanding paper on the plastic infront of the reflector. This makes the beam more smooth. And i added a small strip of electrical tape on the lower edge of the lamp. So that i do not get light shining inside the glasses. I am really happy with the result. It weighs less, it is brighter, the angle the light has now is better, and with 5000K 90CRI it also looks way better.
I think I found CRX on YouTube. 
Cool guy 
That reminds me of two other videos I watched recently if you like that sort of thing:
So… you neither confirm nor deny? :smiling_imp:
I can confirm , last time I checked he was definitely a cool guy.
Edit ,
but I almost slipped an A in there 