Just got a 2006 Ford Escape for $200, Trying to make it a daily driver for cheap

Thanks for the tip, that is by far the best solution I have heard so far. Reasonably priced and sounds like it would work if not be extremely messy lol.

I looked into the converter option but the cost was what drove that idea away. I could easily spend more on the converter then I got the truck for lol. Maybe there is a way to buy them in bulk?

Yeah, I plan to really go everything carefully when I get it on jack stands, thus far just been crawling around on the ground. I am far from a rust expert. I did check all the structural areas and could not find any areas where I did not find “good” metal after tapping it a few times with a screwdriver. I am guessing that those from up north would classify it as “heavy surface rust?”.

No rust inside except for a little rust on the bolt heads that hold the front seats in place but they are still sound with no holes in the floor or anything.

The bearings appear to be ok, no grinding or strange sounds when driving that I have noticed thus far. Drives shockingly good for the price actually.

I have had pretty good luck with mazdas in the past but admittedly most of my experience with them were RX7’s (had 9 or 10 of them over the years) or miatas.

I do have a question for you, did yours have the V6 or 2.3L I4? The engine seems to run good once it gets into the power band but below ~2500-3000 RPM it is a dog, not sure if that is just how the engine is? Or if something is wrong? Good power above that.

Yes, it is sadly the automatic trans version but I did get a 4WD model, so I guess it balances out lol. I wish it was manual though.

Yep, complete fluid changes are in store for everything. These fluids are WELL past their use by date. I got lucky and pepboys was clearing out a bunch of high quality fluids for $2 a quart. Got 6 quarts of high end synthetic Merc-V trans fluid for $2 a bottle. Same for oil, except I got like 6 oil changes worth lol.

Thanks for the PCV tip, I was wondering if a vacuum leak could explain the low power down low already.

Speaking of which, is it normal for it to be a dog off the line until it gets to ~2500-3000rpm and then take off with full power?

The other major issues I have are the 4WD and ABS lights are on but think I narrowed that down to the passenger side tone ring on the CV. Got a replacement coming now.

The airbag light is on as well with code 33, not totally sure on that one.

You would not happen to know of a way to program a new key for it without going to the dealer by chance? I only have 1 key and seems that means the dealer is the only option for adding a 2nd which I need.

I am honestly not sure what I am going to do with it right now. I figure I will drive it for at least the next 6 months since the inspection is good until next year and it gets way better gas mileage then my 4runner. Plus the 4runner needs some work.

My goal is to keep my investment below what I could resell it for. I am guessing I could get $1000 or a bit more for it once the work I have planned is done, so trying to keep my investment to less then $750 so I can drive it for free and possibly make a few bucks when selling it.

Cosmetically the only things I am worried about are the bumper mostly because it is rubbing on the radiator right now and worried it will eat through if I leave it this way and the rust on the fenders because that will drastically effect the value when I sell it. But I will do the fender repair myself, done a bit of body work in the past, good enough for this anyways.

I am very picky about sound quality, used to be pretty heavy into audiophile stuff in years past. That said I also have reasonable expectations for a cheap radio. The stock one doesn’t sound great even with a CD and an FM modulator sucks even worse in my past experience. So I figure that even a cheap ebay radio has to be better then that setup plus it can use my phone music over bluetooth.

I wish this one had an AUX input, it has a button but it apparently is just there to taunt you lol.

Interesting, I saw some mods like this but it seems it needs a tape deck for it to work. The stock radio only has CD which is not compatible with analog inputs from the research I did.

If you know different I am all ears. I would totally do a mod like that if it would work.

LOL, we had this happen when I installed the new battery.

Downtown with an alarm going off.

A truck with a broken window

glass all over my butt from sitting in it.

Hot, sweaty and frustrated

and a hammer, screwdriver and pliers / snips on the ground next to me.

I was ever so slightly worried about a cop driving by and having a nice long chat with me lol.

@Texas_Ace, if you want, just get some citric acid, make a concentrated solution(300g/L), heat it up in the microwave until it boils.

Be careful with it though. When very hot, even “weak” acids like citric acid or acetic acid(vinegar) get very corrosive.

So, great for removing rust up to a certain point, but be very careful handling it.

1. Make a concentrated solution of citric acid, and heat it up in the microwave until boiling.

2. Put boiling hot citric acid anywhere you need to remove it, and put parts in the solution to remove superficial rust.

3. Keep it hot as long as possible and as needed.

4. RINSE EVERYTHING with a lot of water.

5. Dry it in the Texas sun.

6. Paint over it, or the parts.

Interesting idea. I have used this trick in the past to flush radiators and it worked great there.

I guess I would just be worried about getting it all rinsed off good enough so it doesn’t cause worse rust long term.

Yep.

Acids in general are great deoxidizers, but that is also their weakness.

They clean the surface, but etch it.

It’s not too bad with weak acids, but something like hydrochloric acid will absolutely murder most metals after exposure for some time.

I’ve actually used this method for removing rust on screws before zinc-nickel plating them myself, or removing copper oxide before plating, or even removing rust from small car parts.

Worked ok, until I decided to say OVERDRIVE, and decide to take the 2x/10C rule of chemical reactions, and nuked the solution in the microwave.

Removed every traces of rust imaginable.

lol, yeah that is me.

When flushing the radiator I was supposed to add like 2 tbs, think I added like 1/2 a cup and then proceeded to heat that sucker up and drive it for a day or 2 before draining.

It worked that is for sure, never seen coolant so dirty!

Also not the best for the water pump seals, they were already going out but this put the nail in the coffin. Luckily I was already planning on doing the water pump.

Dunno Fords, but the engine might just be peaky, or might have well-worn plugs or other combustion issues. Faster rpm, it’ll almost diesel, with the plugs just pushing the mix over the edge.

Question I ask most people and get blank stares: “When was the last time you changed the plug/coil wires?”.

Had that issue, new Autolites (nice fat 9mm or so), and it ran like it had a new engine. I try to change mine every coupla years or so.

Then check the plugs. I’ve squared then regapped mine when they were easy to change, but now where you need to be a contortionist with multi-link wrench to get at 1-2 out of 6, it’s a pain in the ass, so I just pay Mr Mechanic to do it.

Which reminds me… :expressionless:

I guess I should mention that I used to be a tuner / mechanic years ago. Had a few records for awhile with the 4runner, heck I bet it still stands since it would be basically impossible to beat with the TRD supercharger.

Yeah, I plan on checking the plugs but the guy I got it from had a receipt in the glove compartment for some work done 5k miles ago which included the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, a coil and something else. So I think they are ok.

You are spot on the right track though, spark plugs are always my first mechanical item outside of air filter / vacuum leaks. I used to buy them in bulk for my cars and swap them out at the first signs of strange issues. lol

In years past, my first concentration would be on swapping speakers (Crutchfield Is Your Friend) to get the best bang for the buk. Then get a decent head for more features, more power (eg, 25W×4). I never went whole hawg with the separate amps and all. I always preferred clean sound, even if I couldn’t keep the neighbors up at night blasting it like some nitwits do.

Good speakers with a crappy head sounds way better than crappy speakers with a good head.

My newer car has everything integrated into the “infotainment system”, so I can’t do the latter at all, and even though I got the speakers sitting here I haven’t done the former, either. :confounded:

One head I got way way back had the aux input as a connection on the back of the unit, where you’d route the cable wherever you’d want it to go. Wtf?? Left it unconnected, too.

Yeah, if I just had a way of playing MP3’s on the stock deck I would not even bother with it.

Fact is though that CD’s are dead (won’t even play an MP3 CD I think which I considered) and the radio has too many commercials.

Apparently there used to be an adapter that would add an AUX input to the stock head unit but it costs $120 and is not made anymore.

What is the exact model of the head unit? I’m curious about that adapter. Since ultimately, it ends up having to connect to SOME kind of input on the stock head, perhaps there’s a workaround for the adapter thing.

That’s just it, people’ll check/replace the plugs, but keep the same wires on the engine forever. They leak, crack, corrode, degrade, and let those little electrons leak all over the garage floor.

“They’re wires… who has to replace wires??” :person_facepalming:

And yeah, tell me about vacuum leaks… Had one so bad that the #1 plug was completely fouled, and #2 was going, and this was on a high-strung 4-banger. Fooled the ECU into thinking it was running too lean, so it ended up dumping so much fuel down the pipe that of course it was getting fouled.

That should show up, though. Lousy mileage, missing, running rough, etc.

Not sure on the exact model, it is the stock unit without the 6-cd changer is about all I could find.

It has a sat and aux input button but it just says “not installed” when pressed. Apparently it was a factory option and there is an input on the back for them on some models but not all. Also they appear to be proprietary in some way since the adapter box to use them was so expensive.

Yeah, most cars now days use a COP (coil on plug) setup that removes the wires from the equation but I have run into plenty of issues with wires over the years as well. I generally spring for the higher end wires and have rarely had them fail unless I melted them or something.

I mostly second pennzy’s suggestion of spraying it with a diesel/oil mix.
However, you should splurge and buy a fresh quart of oil for making your mix. Used motor oil will make your vehicle smell nasty. And I would also suggest using a scraper to remove the loose rust before you oil it. If not, the oil will not get where you need it most.