Fanks mate.
Wow , the 13000th post.
Yes… retaining ring holds driver in. Just make sure retaining ring is tight/not loose.
The MCPCB the LED’s are on is copper, it must be pressed against the shelf in the head to properly transfer heat.
my guess is the thermal paste is kinda gluey so it kept the mcpcb attached to a certain extent
still, im never doing that ever again
Amen.
In flashlights that use reflectors, it’s the bezel and lens that push down on the reflector, which then pushes down on the led/mcpcb. It’s this contact pressure between the mcpcb and the aluminum shelf that causes the heat to transfer into the flashlight body.
So you don’t want to use Turbo if the reflector or optic is out or the bezel is loose/removed. With no pressure on the mcpcb, the leds could overheat within seconds.
A few flashlights use screws to hold down the mcpcb, but most only use the screws for anti-rotation purposes (FW3A) and they don’t apply any downward pressure. The designs vary from flashlight to flashlight. It’s best to not even turn on a flashlight if the lens or reflector is loose or removed. Moonlight or a very low level is usually okay for a short period of time, but be careful.
This.
It doesn’t matter to me. It does matter to the forum owner/admin. Perhaps you are unaware of that after less than four months.
You were participating in an argument which you initiated.
As a reminder of, the rules that we all agreed to when we signed up:
Your first post accused another poster of being dishonest. That clearly violates rule #1
You then resorted to a personal attack towards said poster. This clearly violates rules #1 & #4. An argument can be made that it also violates rule #2.
Both posts have been reported. Please feel free to discuss the issue with the board owner.
In the future if you see other posters violating the rules I am sure he would appreciate it if you did the same.
We don’t need a public trial. Nev is no Angel. I’m sure he has thicker skin anyways since he asking for it half the time
:person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: … 
… Was this necessary?? . 
. ¯\/¯
Kindle explained everything concisely & accurately . As did cabfrank.
racoon city knows the rules already, this just progresses a needless argument. You know, rule 4 and all “drop the subject” is probably the best course here
Let’s keep discussing the new FW3x options. Pretty cool choices!
On topic:
I wonder what they did do the full Ti version for heat. I think they tossed around the idea of a 3mm MCPCB or something.
In any case I ordered 1x stonewashed and 1x ti+cu. Considering this puts me at 4 FW3A’s I think 1 or 2 will make the WTS chopping block. Decisions decisions. 
I also had a hard time deciding what finish to get. I like both the polished and stonewashed options but ended up going with the same 2 you got. Figured the copper would help heat dissipation more. Now to decide if and which of my other FW3As to sell… haha.
BTW, I opted for the Express shipping option for $11 more. Does this make a difference?
I think it makes a difference in shipping speed, but probably not in “time until shipped”. Being early on the list and paying for express shipping, you’ll probably be one of the first to receive your lights.
Your tracking might work better as well.
You should get your light about 10-12 days sooner than you would otherwise
Your right… we all know or should know, the Rules. We had to read them before joining BLF.
This whole thing has been completely unnecessary.
As Kindle eluded to…. the puplic confronting of Nev was uncalled for… especially the way it was worded. There is but one administrator / moderator at BLF.
Private PM would have been a much better way to handle it…Or better yet, let the administrator ( sb56637 ) handle any perceived problem.
Instead, BLF Rules were broken to “confront” someone who allegedly broke BLF Rules. Then a downward spiral results.
Somewhat silly isn’t it??? 
.
Loving my FW3A’s….
Just ordered a purple FW3A with Nichia 4000K. 
Forgive me if it’s been mentioned in in the thread before but it’s a lot to sift through:
What level would I need to set my ramp ceiling in order to have it stop at max regulated output?
I’ve changed the level a couple times and don’t remember. I recall seeing 120/150 being max regulated so 30/31 clicks for the ramp ceiling config, but that seems pretty damn bright given turbo output with a freshly charged 30Q is only a little bit brighter than that.
I forgot to mention, I’m trying the 4000K 90CRI SST20 this time. I’ve tried 5000K 90CRI 219C before and hated it, just had the XPL-HI in my other FW3A, and that didn’t impress. The tint was great, but the light isn’t built for the heat at all and it stepped down way too fast. If I don’t like the SST20, I may just buy a flashing kit, throw some of my new 219Bs in it, and flash a turbo-limited firmware on it.