FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

In flashlights that use reflectors, itā€™s the bezel and lens that push down on the reflector, which then pushes down on the led/mcpcb. Itā€™s this contact pressure between the mcpcb and the aluminum shelf that causes the heat to transfer into the flashlight body.

So you donā€™t want to use Turbo if the reflector or optic is out or the bezel is loose/removed. With no pressure on the mcpcb, the leds could overheat within seconds.

A few flashlights use screws to hold down the mcpcb, but most only use the screws for anti-rotation purposes (FW3A) and they donā€™t apply any downward pressure. The designs vary from flashlight to flashlight. Itā€™s best to not even turn on a flashlight if the lens or reflector is loose or removed. Moonlight or a very low level is usually okay for a short period of time, but be careful.

This.

It doesnā€™t matter to me. It does matter to the forum owner/admin. Perhaps you are unaware of that after less than four months.

You were participating in an argument which you initiated.

As a reminder of, the rules that we all agreed to when we signed up:

Your first post accused another poster of being dishonest. That clearly violates rule #1

You then resorted to a personal attack towards said poster. This clearly violates rules #1 & #4. An argument can be made that it also violates rule #2.

Both posts have been reported. Please feel free to discuss the issue with the board owner.

In the future if you see other posters violating the rules I am sure he would appreciate it if you did the same.

We donā€™t need a public trial. Nev is no Angel. Iā€™m sure he has thicker skin anyways since he asking for it half the time

:person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: ā€¦ :open_mouth: ā€¦ Was this necessary?? . :frowning: . ĀÆ\/ĀÆ

Kindle explained everything concisely & accurately . As did cabfrank.

racoon city knows the rules already, this just progresses a needless argument. You know, rule 4 and all ā€œdrop the subjectā€ is probably the best course here

Letā€™s keep discussing the new FW3x options. Pretty cool choices!

On topic:

I wonder what they did do the full Ti version for heat. I think they tossed around the idea of a 3mm MCPCB or something.

In any case I ordered 1x stonewashed and 1x ti+cu. Considering this puts me at 4 FW3Aā€™s I think 1 or 2 will make the WTS chopping block. Decisions decisions. :question:

I also had a hard time deciding what finish to get. I like both the polished and stonewashed options but ended up going with the same 2 you got. Figured the copper would help heat dissipation more. Now to decide if and which of my other FW3As to sellā€¦ haha.

BTW, I opted for the Express shipping option for $11 more. Does this make a difference?

I think it makes a difference in shipping speed, but probably not in ā€œtime until shippedā€. Being early on the list and paying for express shipping, youā€™ll probably be one of the first to receive your lights.

Your tracking might work better as well.

You should get your light about 10-12 days sooner than you would otherwise

Your rightā€¦ we all know or should know, the Rules. We had to read them before joining BLF.

This whole thing has been completely unnecessary.

As Kindle eluded toā€¦. the puplic confronting of Nev was uncalled forā€¦ especially the way it was worded. There is but one administrator / moderator at BLF.

Private PM would have been a much better way to handle itā€¦Or better yet, let the administrator ( sb56637 ) handle any perceived problem.

Instead, BLF Rules were broken to ā€œconfrontā€ someone who allegedly broke BLF Rules. Then a downward spiral results.

Somewhat silly isnā€™t it??? :slight_smile:

.

Loving my FW3Aā€™sā€¦.

Just ordered a purple FW3A with Nichia 4000K. :sunglasses:

Forgive me if itā€™s been mentioned in in the thread before but itā€™s a lot to sift through:

What level would I need to set my ramp ceiling in order to have it stop at max regulated output?

Iā€™ve changed the level a couple times and donā€™t remember. I recall seeing 120/150 being max regulated so 30/31 clicks for the ramp ceiling config, but that seems pretty damn bright given turbo output with a freshly charged 30Q is only a little bit brighter than that.

I forgot to mention, Iā€™m trying the 4000K 90CRI SST20 this time. Iā€™ve tried 5000K 90CRI 219C before and hated it, just had the XPL-HI in my other FW3A, and that didnā€™t impress. The tint was great, but the light isnā€™t built for the heat at all and it stepped down way too fast. If I donā€™t like the SST20, I may just buy a flashing kit, throw some of my new 219Bs in it, and flash a turbo-limited firmware on it.

You have it right; 31 clicks in the ramp config. http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril-manual.txt ā€œTo set the default of 120/150, click 31 times.ā€

Edit: See this comment from TK: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45538/10889

I donā€™t think that spaghetti-monster version is the one used on the FW3A. Itā€™s more generic.

The default smooth ramp ceiling for the FW3A should be 130. This would be 21 clicks.

So in Smooth ramp you click 1 then 21.
In stepped mode itā€™s 20 then 21 then 7.

I call bs on that.

I didn't accuse anyone, so far, of being dishonest.

I made it clear that Nev should know better than to put the f-word in his avatar.

And you should know the difference, too, unless your first language is not English.

(Or maybe you're just trying to misrepresent my words.)

I defended myself after he attacked me, Einstein.

And suggesting that I broke three different rules by defending myself is a huge stretch of the imagination.

I have started a conversation about this topic with Mr. Admin, but like I said, I have no idea when he'll sign in next, and BLF doesn't need 900+ f-words littered all across the forum, so I handled it myself.

And I handled it quite well, if I might add.

:person_facepalming: :open_mouth: :person_facepalming: :open_mouth: :person_facepalming: