I see clearance sale in some copper mcpcb DTP, ther will be replaced or what is the reason?
They will be replaced by new design,fully gold plated this time, so price will be a little bit higher (similar to 3030 DTPs). Existing PCBs at reduced price will be available until stock is exhausted.
Hi Neven,
Will you also be making a 5050 16mm DTP MCPCB?
I don't plan to have 5050 pcbs anymore, only two popular LEDs use them these days: SST-40 and XHP50.2, and I don't stock any of those, so it doesn't make too much sense to have pcbs and no LEDs.
Luxeon V is IHMO better LED overall than SST-40 so I don't want to stock two very similar LEDs, XHP50.2 has ugly beam tint - don't want to stock those either for this reason.
It makes sense… Thanks
LD-B4-20 ETA?
Someone gets it! Only passable excuse IMO for sst40 is dedomed.
10-15days, I'm waiting for some test rig pcbs.
If anyone was interested in the L4P quad spacer for the X6 you might find this useful:
Damn it, I may just have to build one now 
Question though, I haven’t been able to find the answer and haven’t built a triple yet so forgive me if this seems like a simple/noob question… I see the L4P triple spacer has a bolt and a spacer whereas others, such as kiriba-ru’s, just have the spacer. Why is that and is there a practical difference? I’ve gone through a number of X6 triple/quad build posts (including yours) but am still struggling to get my head around the role the bolt plays.
The bolt keeps the spacer from spinning when you screw the bezel and it also ensures good thermal path from spacer to body.
I measured the newer batch Luxeon V with a Vf of 3.324V @ 6A, compared to the 1st batch with a Vf of 3.484V @ 6A.
Still confused
What does the bolt rest against and what stops the bolt from gradually (un)threading on the spacer?
You only drill the X6 shelf enough to fit the bolt so head of the bolt presses on the bottom of LED shelf. The inside of the spacer is threaded so it grabs onto that and pulls spacer toward top of LED shelf
With hollow bolt method assembly is much easier because once you install spacer with bolt and tighten it, spacer cannot move or spin because clamping force is big which is also good for thermal transfer between spacer and body. After that you can easily install mcpcb and driver.
With traditional spacer this is more complicated/messy since everything is loose and can move - source of clamping force is bezel (force "travels" through optics) - not optimal IHMO.
Hello!
I bought some of the last ld-b4hv, but I have a problem with the gate solder pad coming off the pcb. Happened on two different driver boards while I was soldering.
Figured I could solder the wire on top of the resistanse in the photo because it looks like they are connected (measured for continuity on a third driver board which I have not done anything to yet).
Then something strange happened.
I’m using the mosx board with FET. When I measure for continuity without wires attached I have connection through the LED between + and “m” and no connection between + and -
As soon as I connect the gate to the mosx the FET is shorted out and I have connection between + and - even when the FET is not energized.
What is going on. Is my point for gate on the driver wrong?
The third picture I have attached (this is something led4power posted earlier in the thread) - why is there a wire on the m pad ?
I never had problems with pads coming off pcb, it seems you are using way too high soldering temperature, do you have any pictures of your soldering work?
You can solder wire to those resistor pads, but be careful, if you are holding soldering tip for too long or temperature is too high, you could easily desolder/remove resistor since it's very small.
Which mosX board and which 6V LED are you using? "M" pad is connected to LED cathode. There should be no continuity between + and M, maybe you've soldered LED rotated by 90deg? You should check LED and MCPCB first, of course driver can't work if LED pads are shorted.
In third picture is Luxeon MZ (3V LED) driven by LD-B4 driver (not LD-B4HV which is >1S driver), LD-B4 has moonlight support so M wire is for moonlight modes.
Thanks for quick reply! 
My soldering is probably the cause
I’m using a regular 25-30W soldering iron without temperature control. Heating the wire/pad until the solder is melted and then let go.
I might have soldered the LED wrong also, but if M is connected to LED cathode there should be continuity between “+” and “m” on the mosx when measure through the LED? Like in the photo:
Don’t know if this is usual, but the LED lights up when I use my voltmeter on continuity setting so I know the LED is working at least. Just like in the picture when I measure between + and m.
And at first I did connect battery and all and discovered I wasn’t able to adjust brightness or enter setup mode. The LED was running direct drive I guess. Luckily the battery wasn’t full and I jused just thin wires to test with. It was bright 
The LEDs are a XHP70.2 6V on the mosX connected in series with a XHP50.2 6V on separate pcb. Driven by 4 samsung 18650 batteries in series. The driver is the 4s/6A version.
The curcuit seems to be fine when the gate wire is not connected between driver and mosx. When this wire is connected it seems like the FET is shorted or connected somehow, like this:
Try to measure exact resistance (instead of continuity) between + and M pads, with LED should still see high resistance. Best way to set LED is to set multimeter to diode test, if LED is ok it will emit some light, but that usually only works for 3V LEDs.
Since you are running 2 LEDs on separate PCBs, how did you connect those PCBs? Diagram for one LED looks ok.
Ok, thanks again!
Will see when I get home.
Btw when I say continuity I mean diode test. Sorry
Added the other pcb/LED to my scheme
This other LED did come on sinkpad pcb. It’s only the XHP70 og mosX i did myself.