So this seems like a good place to ask this question, I’ve searched this thread for button and switch, but I’m not finding what I need. Does anyone know where I can find an entire new switch for my D4? The little metal pop-cap part came off of mine and shifted around in there, stopping it from working. I centered it and taped it down into place, and it’s working for the moment. But it’s not perfect, it’s causing me to double click on accident occasionally. Has anyone replaced this switch before? Maybe have a link to mouser or something? Or do I need to start searching manually by the dimensions lol.
I also tore the boot a little, so I’m debating asking Hank if I can buy a new one. Maybe I should ask if he can sell me a switch too, or a few of them.
I haven’t seen the switch available anywhere, but it looks like it’s probably a standard part of some sort. I think Hank may have made a custom PCB for it though. You should probably ask him if you can get some extras.
I’ve broken a couple too, because it’s so small and has such delicate soldering. It’s easy to mess up the switch while doing modifications. The switch wires are pretty fragile too, which is why one of my D4 lights is currently broken. I’ll have to get the press-fit switch ring off before I can fix it, so I’ve been avoiding the project.
Hopefully any future products will have flashing pads so I don’t have to open things up so much.
Best way to get the press-fit retaining ring off that I’ve tried:
Using a standard Victorinox mini knife open the nail file. It has a small flat head screwdriver on the end. And all edges are slightly rounded so it shouldn’t damage the rubber button boot.
Hold the D4 in your left hand. Or place the head in a vise.
Take the nail file and slide it horizontally over the top of the D4 button from right to left. Press the tip of the file down to compress the rubber so the tip is below the level of the retaining ring. Then press forward to dig the head of the tool completely underneath the ring.
Next step is to lever off the ring. It should pop right off. Like opening a bottle-cap with no damage to the ring, light or switch boot.
This method works very well, but note that the steel retaining ring will slightly erode the aluminum head each time it is removed. If you do this operation too many times the ring may no longer hold at all since not enough of the metal is left to hold it in place. If that happens you will need to glue the ring in place. Fiberfix optical superglue works great for this and the ring is still removable using the above operation.
@Roguesoul, Yeah. This is loaded with an older, lower amperage Sanyo 18500 that was pulled from a Toshiba laptop pack, 2000mAh. This setup is for indoors, usually at 150 lumens (stock setting turn on level). Thanks for mentioning the heat issue.
Changed the lighted switch board on my modded Emisar D4v1 with lighted switch:
This is an Emisar D4v1 with Lexel lighted bezel board, a custom-lighted switch board, and firmware update for Aux-board control from the UI.
Previously, I had modded a Kaidomain lighted switch module and used that to illuminate the switch. However, I wasn’t happy with that arrangement since it only had 2 LEDs in it and they were slightly offset to the left side. I wanted the lit area around the switch button to be a solid ring of light. I redid the switch LED board as follows:
The new lighted switch board involved no solder or application of heat. It is entirely handmade with all components attached with glue.
I started with a piece of thin sheet plastic. I cut it into a ring with a hole in the center for the switch button.
I then ran my super glue plastic activator pen over the plastic so super glue would stick to it.
I made the traces for the LEDs out of conductive ink from a conductive ink pen. You can see the ink in the picture as it is black, while the substrate plastic board is white. The ink in the pen came out far too much and lacked precision, so I used the pen to put puddles of ink onto a piece of wax paper and then dabbed a sliced toothpick into it and used the toothpick to draw the traces… one outer ring and one inner ring, with appropriate cuts at each side for the positive and negative wires.
I then installed the LEDs. These are 0603 blue leds. Hand-placed with tweezers so that each contact pad of the LED touches a different ring. The LEDs were glued in place with Fiberfix optical super glue (cures instantly when blue light shined on it). For ease of use, I mounted the entire board on a piece of double-sided tape on my work area before installing the LEDs.
After each LED was glued, I used a cut toothpick to dab on conductive ink on each contact to give a good electrical connection.
The base of each bondwire where it touches the inside edge of the board is glued, leaving the tip of the wire bare. Then I liberally slathered the exposed tips of the wires with conductive ink going to the traces.
Initially, I started with 11 LEDs and 2 resistors on the left side of the board. The picture above without the cover on shows this version. However, I later decided that wasn’t bright enough and I wanted a more complete ring. I removed the 2 resistors and replaced them with LEDs. I already had a resistor between the MCU and one of the bondwires so the extra resistors on the switch board were not needed. I also added another LED on the bottom arc right side bringing the total to 14 LEDs.
The switch cover is the same style as what I’d previously used. Silicone sheet with a small post on the bottom and a metal disk on the top. All glued with Fiberfix with plastic super-glue activator. The retaining ring is a filed down nickel-plated brass finished washer and is glued the same way.
The light still needs a polish and wax and the silver-colored epoxy around the base of the retaining ring could use a bit of touch-up, but overall I’m pleased with how it came out. The body tube and stainless steel bezel are from a D4V2. The head, body tube and tailcap are aluminum with anodizing removed.
_
For reference, here are some pictures of my previous build on this lighted switch:
The previous version looked great in the fully-assembled picture, but the picture is showing the switch lights from their best angle. the right of the switch was significantly dimmer.
The new version produces a more uniform ring of light even if output from each individual LED is lower than that of the 2 LEDs in the original build.
The old build also used a higher profile retaining ring and titanium tube. For the new build, I filed off more of the switch retaining ring and swapped in an aluminum tube and tailcap and stainless steel bezel. The new switch retaining ring is looking a bit ragged from being glued and unglued many times. I might make a fresh one.
Really cool.
The style may not be my favourite but I really thought that D4 tail was not as compact as I wish it would be - and you made this aspect perfect.
The brass threads are also super-cool. I wonder if some production lights could steal the trick, making their Ti lights even better.
On your pictures I only see GITD strips around the head, opposite the side switch. I doubt these can be charged by the light itself, correct?
Do you mean you also put some GITD in the front of the light, inside the bezel? If yes, pictures would be welcome.
I would like to make the switch of my D4v2 visible in the dark, but I am far from having the necessary skills to make it lighted. Not sure GITD paint on the rubber switch cover would work, maybe a thin GITD paint strip on the retaining ring, or on the light body around the switch?
I'm glad this conversation got a bump. Hank never responded so I'm thinking about selling that one. However, aren't there some posts on fabricating a switch? I just need that 'blister' like part.
You’re right! :person_facepalming:
I didn’t check my previous post, and I was forgetting that I put some thinner strips on the grooves of the head !
It was also the same thing, cutting them thin enough and making them fit there the best way possible.
I also put a strip inside though! I’d love to show it to you but I don’t have it with me, and it is also damaged, the switch went “puft” so the D4 is in the “boxes”.
Hum, doesn’t the D4v2 have the aux leds? Or did you turn them OFF?
I am not sure if GITD paint would work well. I used it in other things and it is not the best thing… GITD tape is probably a better and more visible option.
