@TrueRMS, Iād recommend putting in an LH351D in for much more flood.
Second the motion on the LH351D, they trend towards a larger hot spot that looks clean, artifact free, and work great in a light like this! I like the 70 CRI W6 at 5000 K, itās a soft white high powered emitter that never fails to impress me even ( or especially) in the lowest modes.
I actually just got done doing exactly that, went with a W6. Itās better, will definitely be more usable but still not what I was hoping forā¦
If I could get the same beam shape (albeit a lot less reach) as my FT03 thatād make it perfect. Itās [the FT03] hot spot to spill ratio is just perfect for the heavily wooded areas I frequently camp in but itās to large to take on minimal backpacking trips and I donāt need quite that much lux 99% of the time.
I wish there was any 5050 led with a better tint (xm-L2 or SST-40 or 3v XHP50.2) and without the yellow corona and/or power ralated tint shift! Still, itās WAY better for my needs than the CW sst-20 it had (back when I was going for pure performance / numbers)
Well, since you already have the floodiest 3535 3V LED, the other option would be to replace the smooth reflector with an OP reflector.
Problem being that we donāt have any measurements for the reflector.
Getlemen, I gotta say thanks to both of you for the recommendation yesterday! I wasnāt very impressed with it at 5m in my basement, sure it was better than the SST-20 but I didnāt think itād be what I wanted IRL but when I took it out to the woods last night man did it change my mind. This is the light I needed for my use!
Glad we could help. 
How do you remove the driver?
Carefully. Itās glued in, so you need to remove the mcpcb and then tap it out with a tool through the 2 wire holes. There is a chance you could press down and break a component on the driver damaging it.
I have not removed this particular driver, but I have removed similar glued drivers from Lumintop and other brands. Maybe someone that has removed this specific one can chime in and give more exact instructions.
First, does it have to be a mini? Itās kinda ruining what makes it āspecialā.
The C8ās about the same size, and easier to mod. Lotta other lights, too.
Second, stick-on diffusion film would give you what you want, and be 100% reversible by simply peeling it off.
If Iām ruining a product I own by making it better suited for my needs so be it.
I like the C8, I have 2, it doesnāt provide the beam I was after. The GT mini has better proportions for my hand (shorter, more comfy to cary), it doesnāt force me to hold it like a tactical light because of the side button, also because of the side button it runs Anduril giving me a infinite ramping interface and battery check and more fun modes for around the campfire (which it can also simulate lol) and IMO looks better then any C8.
Your second point is a good option I hadnāt considered on such a light (I have DC-fix on several smaller lights) and would probably work just as well but I had previously built the light just for numbers using a CW SST-20 (like way over 6000k) and needed to do an led swap to make it usable at all again and the end result was just perfect for me so I doubt Iāll be making any more changes on it now.
Yeah, I prefer the GT Mini in general.
Better overall design, better heat dissapation, better stock spring setup(BeCu driver and dual steel on the tailcap), and more throw at the same power level.
The only thing I would change would be to make it into a super thrower with an SST-20 5000k 70CRI, or a balanced thrower with an LH351D 90CRI.
Whereās the best place to get dogfarts these days? I could be tempted to mod a balanced thrower.
So I made new holes to fit L4Ps 3030 white flat boardā¦but now the switch comes in the way of one of the screws. I was thinking of using the original screw holes and making new ones for he wires which is what I shouldāve done first but I kinda messed them up so the screws just fall out. I guess I could find new screws that fit.
The main purpose of the screws is anti-rotation while youāre assembling it, pressure from the reflector holds the mcpcb down onto the shelf well already. As long as the l4p board is the same thickness as the original you should be absolutely fine with just one screw.
Arrow has them but now that they donāt do their free shipping anymore there may be a better, Europe based seller for you.
So the new driver doesnāt fitā¦itās just loose. Do I need some kind of glue to hold it in place? Also I noticed that the wires are a tiny bit thinner and one of the components is different. I think itās the FET.
Isnāt it supposed to be loose? Itās the same diameter as the first one right? Once you screw the battery tube on it will be held firmly in place. Or you can add a dab of glue.
I would not worry about the differences. The FET should still be fine, the company that makes the driver probably bought a new batch of FETs which have a different number on them.
Are you measuring the wire or the insulation? Insulation thickness can vary, but it has no effect on the performance. If the wire is thinner gauge it can add a little more resistance. This can be good or bad depending on what you want. Thinner wire can slightly reduce the amp draw on the LED while a thicker wire can slightly increase the amp draw.