Question though, I haven’t been able to find the answer and haven’t built a triple yet so forgive me if this seems like a simple/noob question… I see the L4P triple spacer has a bolt and a spacer whereas others, such as kiriba-ru’s, just have the spacer. Why is that and is there a practical difference? I’ve gone through a number of X6 triple/quad build posts (including yours) but am still struggling to get my head around the role the bolt plays.
You only drill the X6 shelf enough to fit the bolt so head of the bolt presses on the bottom of LED shelf. The inside of the spacer is threaded so it grabs onto that and pulls spacer toward top of LED shelf
With hollow bolt method assembly is much easier because once you install spacer with bolt and tighten it, spacer cannot move or spin because clamping force is big which is also good for thermal transfer between spacer and body. After that you can easily install mcpcb and driver.
With traditional spacer this is more complicated/messy since everything is loose and can move - source of clamping force is bezel (force "travels" through optics) - not optimal IHMO.
Hello!
I bought some of the last ld-b4hv, but I have a problem with the gate solder pad coming off the pcb. Happened on two different driver boards while I was soldering.
Figured I could solder the wire on top of the resistanse in the photo because it looks like they are connected (measured for continuity on a third driver board which I have not done anything to yet).
Then something strange happened.
I’m using the mosx board with FET. When I measure for continuity without wires attached I have connection through the LED between + and “m” and no connection between + and -
As soon as I connect the gate to the mosx the FET is shorted out and I have connection between + and - even when the FET is not energized.
What is going on. Is my point for gate on the driver wrong?
The third picture I have attached (this is something led4power posted earlier in the thread) - why is there a wire on the m pad ?
I never had problems with pads coming off pcb, it seems you are using way too high soldering temperature, do you have any pictures of your soldering work?
You can solder wire to those resistor pads, but be careful, if you are holding soldering tip for too long or temperature is too high, you could easily desolder/remove resistor since it's very small.
Which mosX board and which 6V LED are you using? "M" pad is connected to LED cathode. There should be no continuity between + and M, maybe you've soldered LED rotated by 90deg? You should check LED and MCPCB first, of course driver can't work if LED pads are shorted.
In third picture is Luxeon MZ (3V LED) driven by LD-B4 driver (not LD-B4HV which is >1S driver), LD-B4 has moonlight support so M wire is for moonlight modes.
My soldering is probably the cause
I’m using a regular 25-30W soldering iron without temperature control. Heating the wire/pad until the solder is melted and then let go.
I might have soldered the LED wrong also, but if M is connected to LED cathode there should be continuity between “+” and “m” on the mosx when measure through the LED? Like in the photo:
Don’t know if this is usual, but the LED lights up when I use my voltmeter on continuity setting so I know the LED is working at least. Just like in the picture when I measure between + and m.
And at first I did connect battery and all and discovered I wasn’t able to adjust brightness or enter setup mode. The LED was running direct drive I guess. Luckily the battery wasn’t full and I jused just thin wires to test with. It was bright
The LEDs are a XHP70.2 6V on the mosX connected in series with a XHP50.2 6V on separate pcb. Driven by 4 samsung 18650 batteries in series. The driver is the 4s/6A version.
The curcuit seems to be fine when the gate wire is not connected between driver and mosx. When this wire is connected it seems like the FET is shorted or connected somehow, like this:
Try to measure exact resistance (instead of continuity) between + and M pads, with LED should still see high resistance. Best way to set LED is to set multimeter to diode test, if LED is ok it will emit some light, but that usually only works for 3V LEDs.
Since you are running 2 LEDs on separate PCBs, how did you connect those PCBs? Diagram for one LED looks ok.
I followed this video on how to flow the LED onto the mosx. Only difference was that I did it in the kitchen using an old frying pan (don’t use it for cooking anymore ).
Used low temperature solder paste. I don’t think the solder on the fet melted while I did it.
Yes it is. Input voltage on the driver is 16V. Two series LEDs in series.
Maybe I should switch them around so the mosx is closest to ground?
But this was my next question: do I need to hook up the battery for the FET to function? I thought it was normally open curcuit. A bit scared to power on after yesterday when I think it was direct drive…
FET is normally open (high resistance) but if gate pin is free floating it can be charged for example via testing with mulitmeter and FET will be in closed (low Ohm) state for quite a few seconds even without any voltage applied to gate becasue of gate capacitance.
Actually this is the way I test mosX boards with FET: I charge gate by applying x.xV for 1-2sec, and then I connect mosX board with LED to power supply to + and - pads like standard (non mosX ) MCPCBs.