12mm with 1mm copper rim
Hi. Sorry if is not the best way to ask. I am looking to drive 3 osram oslom luw with 15 volts. The driver could be square or round. I can glued with ceramic epoxy to a heatsink. I need 4. Thanks in advantage.
How do I go about ordering a driver board?
Interested in board for MF02, would it have to run standard battery config?
I have an extension tube on order.
I have the Buck that is 4S only with 12V LED
I know many have seen that I had huge delay in last 3 weeks literally came not to forum orders
I was barely getting enough time to deal with commercial stuff with Fireflies and Astrolux for example
last 2 days I was so busy completely rearranging my living room to fit a 190×70cm working table to get enough space to work more efficiently on flashlight stuff,
my couch, couch table, parts of the furniture and the cat tree were literally packed with flashlight stuff, also window and floor with a lot of stuff standing around everywhere
Also have at the moment 12 young cat babies that need to be dealt with to get them sold that eats time as they are now 9 and 10 weeks old from 2 cat moms
Good to hear. Did you also sort out the faulty AMC’s ?
I’m building a S2+ that needs a 17mm driver.
What’s the difference between the “3 channel (Bistro HD)” and the regular “TA 17-19mm” design?
The first seems to have multiple FETs ?
What would you recommend? It going to be a single emitter. Aiming for longest runtime, no hotrodding 
Need to read this carefully cause i need several 15 and 17mm drivers. Single and 2S
Twelve kittens around flashlight stuff That must be the cutest FL workplace ever 
, no matter how packed during all the rearranging. Must be interesting to see the contrast between giving life to all the electronic components and seeing living creatures giving birth to many small copies of their kind “just” by nature and instincts. We would maybe buy a kitten, if we were living closer (actually, we live in a neighbouring country), but I think I will stick with driver(s) for now 
Take your time! (Hope my long PM didn’t - or won’t - take too much of your time 
)
Lexel, can you provide details on that 12mm driver, please?
FET+1 1mm copper ring around it so component area is 10mm
Does this have the same bistro fw as the 15+ mm drivers?
Also, can the copper ring be removed so the driver fits a 10mm cavity?
if you can connect ground and avoid shorts yes
Hey Lexel, do you have an Anduril driver which would work in a Nitecore D10 or D11? Stock drivers are 15mm.
may work but only with 3.7V lithium battery
Ofc. What options are there for 15mm with Attiny85 and Anduril?
3-4.2V standard Anduril with switch LED in firmware activated?
Yeah all standard. I can flash Anduril so settings aren’t too important but I’d be looking for efficiency/usable levels rather than hotrodding. There won’t be an illuminated switch. Hardware wise, is it FET+n+1?
Trying to figure out what needs to be done to make it work in the Nitecores atm. I was originally thinking it would be plug and play as the piston drive effectively acts as the e-switch? I can upload photos of the driver later if it will help.
From pistolsnipe on CPF , this is how they work:
the battery + contact remains in constant contact with the driver board, the spring on the - end of the battery keeps the piston sleeve out of contact while the head is unscrewed sufficiently.
as you screw down the head, the piston sleeve comes into contact with the brass ring, which powers on the light to whatever setting you last left it at
while the piston sleeve is in contact with the brass ring, you can press the sleeve in further by pressing on the rear, to bring the brass ring into contact with the driver board. the driver board, which already has power from the brass ring, through the spring, uses the brass ring to circuit board contact as signal information only, this signal means to ramp up/down or change modes in some way.
if you want to maintain momentary and constant on, you need to hook up your ground side of your led to the pill directly, or to the spring, as the pill and the spring will be ‘grounded’ by the sleeve touching the brass retaining ring (before the ring touches the driver board)
What board do you have that has the pickup ring for the switch (piston)?
I’m needing a new driver for one of my lights. Here is what I am looking for:
- 21mm FET (or FET + 1)
- 2S output (for a XHP70)
- E-Switch with tailcap compatible
- No bleeder
- Anduril Firmware
Let me know if you have a driver that would work for me. Thanks!
I also have a D10 and I’ve been looking to mod it with Narsil or Anduril too!
My question about these drivers is about the 7135 chips on the back! I’m afraid that they don’t fit well with the contact ring…
In case you advance with this option, please let me know how it works!
I will also change the LED, of course 