My choice… would be to buy what I like now the FW3A or D4V2 and then work on finding my favorite led in both. I have 3 of the FW3A’s and they are led testing platforms and one EDC. Once I find the led I want, it will go into the D4V2 as well. I like good budget lights because you can change them often when a better one comes along. But I suspect that these 2 will be with me for a good while!
I would get the FW3A. atm my wallet believes I shouldn’t buy another light I don’t need.
Never had a Cool Fall, but thought a Cool Fall and my HDS rotary as you did.
Why Imalent MS18 R90TS kit keep showing in my head 
I would buy a GT70. I don’t have any need for it, to justify spending the money out of my “real life” budget, but if money were no object, that’s what I’d get.
Modded FW3Ti/Cu
-UI updated with a tactical mode (direct access to turbo and /or tactical strobe)
-Guarded rubber tailswitch
-Crenelated bezel
-Improved cooling
-Heat treated Ti for the rainbow color
I’ve been holding off buying a Zebralight in part because I have various other lights that collectively perform most of the roles it would fill, but all things considered, from what is available today, I think an SC64 HI would probably work well as a long term all-rounder for me, preferably with the emitter replaced with the 90 CRI version of the XHP35.
That would be compact, high capacity battery, good output, a little bit of throw, but still acceptable for up close use, high CRI, good tint, versatile UI, efficient etc.
2000k E21A armytek tiara pro with 18650 tube
So you want an EDC18 (when it comes out next month)?
I'm buying a new house ...and a stable of Ferraris .
I'll hire a guy to hold a light in front of me .
flashlight ...Bah !!
If we’re going with stuff which probably isn’t possible, I’d probably change things a bit…
Something the approximate size of a L3-L10 or maybe an Olight S-Mini, but modified so instead of a battery and LED, it has a quantum-entangled sheet of some sort and an adjustable aperture inside, with the other end entangled to something floating in solar orbit… so when I open the aperture, it lets sunlight through. No battery required, the runtime is unlimited, and it’s 100 CRI directly on the blackbody line.
Plus a UV-blocking lens, to avoid getting sunburns from the beam.
From my small point of view - Emisar D4 or v2.
FW3A still no reputation for me because of a bad start. Still in the box and is waiting for a spare part.
Oh yeah! I’ll have what she’s having! :sunglasses:
Fantastic BLF project light, Toykeeper! I’m in for two or more, depending on price. (You probably don’t want a Chinese partner on this one.) Since distance from the source is irrelevant, do you plan to offer other emitter choices? Sunlight is a little too cool for me at G2 (~5200K). I think a star in the K5 range (~4500K) would be perfect. Keep us posted.
Because R90TS currently has the highest performing beam/beam profile, unseating the X65.
Only one light that I have not bought because of money: Lemax Superpower.
All the other flashlights that I wanted to buy but did not: Due to of shortage of secure storage space.
Memo to self: Buy another safe, so I can buy more power flooders and power throwers and dedicated throwers and dedicated powers.
I’d buy another Acebeam X65.
For our uses, it’s the best all-around light ever made.
i dont think i could do it. if i got into modding, then yea i have enough lights laying around/on order to last forever. but nothing beats the new light smiles.
Tain Damascus 
If I have unlimited budget, I’m going to make one out myself using dozens of COBs.
Then get arrested by cops after I accidentially shine it on an aircraft.
Not to mention the astronomical amount of energy that this thing would consume.
something innovative, small, shiny, probably glows a bit and made by CRX’s wizardry.