I have seen them around in ice blue but I don’t own one to know what color that is exactly. I just assumed it was like a white blue, dim or light blue.
You already know what the trit color ice blue is, I kind of figured it was like that. ENEDED - #22 by Tom_E
Yea, I know the trits are unique in ice blue, figured the SMD LED's would be too, but I really dunno -haven't done serious searching yet.
I was looking around at a few places for ice blue and decided to switch my search strategy, came up with this.
https://www.google.com/search?q=0805+ice+blue+led&tbm=isch&source=hp&sa=X&ved
I might order a few off ebay, look cool. Baby blue. 
I order a lot of different led including this aqua blue one from aliexpress. They have 0805and 0603 size:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100PCS-0805-Ice-Blue-2012-Light-Blue-Clear-Ultra-Bright-SMD-LED-Indication-2-0-1/32715527561.html
Ordered those ice blues - for $2.44 shipped, worth it for that price. This is the store, US:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1758868?spm=a2g1y.12024536.pcShopHead_11169370.0
Only just came across this switch, its amazing work!!
Will it take much for a board like this to be implemented as an electronic switch with a small momentary switch instead of a clicky? Im imagining that it needs a bit more electronics to store the switch state.
Mechanically it also wont be the same either… but this thought comes about for a replacement switch for a V10R or other DIY projects.
Forgive my ignorance but where do the bleeder resistors go on the boards? I’m similarly interested in building this switch for use with an Mtnelectronics H17F. Are they soldered in addition to the cited components or in place of some them?
The bleed resistor goes anywhere you can get battery positive to battery ground (outside driver ring) on the driver. Its a additional component that needs to be added in some drivers. Some work without a bleed resistor.
Here’s a few pics.
Hi all,
I’m having a bit of trouble ordering the boards from OSH Park. Im using the tailcap switch and LED board in an S2+ Triple but I cant see how I change the board thickness from 0.8mm to 1.6mm?
Is this necesary when using this system in an S2+ host?
During the checkout process you select the “service” you want: 1.6mm standard 1oz, 0.8mm 2oz, after dark, medium run, or rush order. Just pick the standard 1.6mm 1oz service.
Awesome, thanks gchart. Cant wait to make a start on this!
Would anyone be able to suggest an alternative Super Barrier rectifier to the one suggested (SBRT05U20S3)?
I am having trouble tracking on down on digikey.
Thanks
I don’t think the particular diode is critical as long as it’s the SOD-323 footprint. The BAT54 is pretty common and cheap.
Anyway, that reminds me.
I still have a lot of these, and since I’m getting some new soldering equipment pretty soon, I could make some very low resistance switches 
I do have the issue of the components being a bit problematic to source however.
@gchart, do you know where to get supercaps? I can find all other components still available obviously, but not the supercap.
I found it!
That means I can still build it
It’s also cheaper than when I looked last time, which is surprising.
The super capacitor will provide ~20 uAh to 2 volts so it will likely keep the board functional for a few hours. Then what happens? The light may no longer be operational for a while after that.
@hoop, I’m building the GFS16 without the LED board, so once the supercap is fully charged, it’ll stay charged for a long time.
@BlueSwordM color me interested, I’d be down for a couple if you make some, missed out the last time you offered to do some up.
@darkshot, no problem.
Now that I have a competent soldering iron again, I’ll finally be able to do some stuff