Wow that baby ti is shorter than the baby al ….and it will be welded ….so if it’s a laser does that mean it can engrave/etch your ti as well? Super nice mod :heart_eyes:
I was initially surprised at how light the aluminium version was when I first got it. The ti version is noticeably heavier. I realise you’re asking about ti vs ti/cu but I don’t have a plain ti version. I took some measurements of weight. The head has most of the extra weight but not all of it.
Alu version
Ti/cu version
While I was at it I weighed my D4ti with v2 head (aluminium)
Thanks! Great info. So do you find it head heavy too? Also, your d4 has the aluminum heatsink right? I remember the cu/Ti d4 to be tank like. It was too heavy for me.
Edit: sorry reread your post about the d4 v2 head. How much does the full ti/cu d4 weigh?
Yes the fw3 ti/cu feels a little head heavy but I don’t feel it’s awkwardly so as kawiboy puts it.
The D4ti is a tank. Stock weight 126g nearly half of the weight is in the head 62g.
The D4v2 is 71g and 27g respectively.
Note - the Lego only works one way. By that I mean the V2 head fits the ti body but the cu head does not fit the Al body. Reason being different thread profile, the older being v-cut the newer being square or trapezoid.
It is just a copper spacer/sealing ring(s) that were laying around, I pounded it flat enough to the size of the switch pcb… I made 2 of them 1mm thick.
. I packed the button with a little bit of NO-OX-ID, (the cap/button jiggles a little) set the rubber boot in and then the copper spacer, switch and retaining ring, it works with out the retaining ring also…
. Just tried it on my Ti/Cu ……it works just the same…
Thanks for the info Kawiboy. Btw, as per your suggestion, I added a bunch of no-oxid grease in the switch. Much quieter now (though perhaps a bit sluggish). I added extra kapton tape after a bit to prevent grease from getting in the switch. Good idea on the grease. Makes it much more enjoyable to use.