Some news from Hank:
“The USB-C port is only the threads of the tube, so that the waterproof is not affected.
It does not support the firmware updating, however, there are reflashing pads on the back of
the driver, which is the same as the D4V2.
Regards,
Hank”
I’m not a fan of usb port in the threads. Don’t like having to touch thread grease and I doubt anyone goes diving with this light. But oh well, at least there’s usb-c in this light.
I on the other hand like the USB port in the threads a lot, it is a solid and waterproof position, superior to putting them in leaking holes under silicon flaps.
I’m a magnetic charger person but this sounds like a great light in the making to me.
I like this charging port layout. It is like the Heikelite SC01. A seperate charging circuit that is properly sealed off. Even driver changes are possible with this setup. Good stuff Hank!
Lmao, ordered a d1s a week or two ago, and already a new version. I wanted a 18650 thrower so it still fits the bill however.
Does this strike anyone else as odd?
“It does not support the firmware updating, however, there are reflashing pads on the back of
the driver, which is the same as the D4V2.”
So, it will have the contact points but cannot be flashed? Change in cpu? Maybe not an ATMega chip?
I think its USB connection to PC cant re flash but the pads can
That could be… I really hope that is the case. I love my old D1 and it sounds like this would just be better.
IF it indeed has a constant current driver then it probably can’t be flashed to the Anduril programs we’ve been using, hence it does not support the upgrades flashing. That’s fine, as long as the UI is real world… for a decent 21700 thrower we can make a couple of small compromises. 
Dale, I know… but with drivers are doing so much more now days than a couple of years ago… setting up a standard UI would be nice since it would make the lights easy to switch between.
Right, but how do you make a standard UI fit all the different drive methods? Direct drive, constant current, boost, buck, boost/buck . I mean, I don’t know how to write code or anything but I do know it’s a much more complex issue than most tend to think it is. You have to write the code to fit the programming chip, available memory and available pin legs, it all changes between the varying driver designs so how do you do it? And what’s in it for those that know how? More accusations? More blame? Certainly no big paychecks…
Following…
SST20 is in my head… Bluesword is right, hi cri super thrower
Oh, that means the flashlight’s USB port isn’t used for reflashing the driver firmware. However, the driver still has flashing pads like the D4v2 does, so it can be reflashed in the same way as other Emisar lights. In other words, it still requires a pogo pin adapter… a USB cable alone isn’t sufficient.
It can definitely be tricky to make a single program work consistently on a variety of different hardware. It involves all sorts of different abstraction layers and modular designs to allow the front end to remain pretty much the same regardless of what back end it’s running on. I’d say that’s why they pay me the big bucks, but … the bucks aren’t big.
Regardless, I think this will be an interesting light.
Looking forward to it. My 10th Emisar and an Epic one at that! 
I find myself agreeing with you so often on here. Ever since I got my Mini One Ti, I think the USB port in the threads is great. This should be quite the light!
I’m skeptical about SST-20 compatability. If Hank is using the white flat, the focus will be a lot different than for any domed LEDs, at least if people’s C8 mods are anything to go by.
A shame Hank almost certainly can’t use CULNM1 in this…
It’s probably too difficult to procure a good flux bin batch of the CULNM1.
Or find them at all if they are already being phased out.
I think it means that it has Ramping OS without updates and that with the pads you can install Anduril for example.
I mean, they don’t have to by set up with a flap.
A flap is easier to design, but they could just be sealed instead (like what phones do). It just means you can’t plug it in until it dries.