Yep, and to quickly summarise, WW has less blue content than CW or even NW, so will attract bugs less.
Red will be best of all because it has zero blue content.
I’m still waiting for my strap wrenches to open the fatty.
Did anybody measure the glass diameter, thickness?
It seems mine is not AR coated so I’d buy another glass.
Be careful with AR coated glasses as these seem to have (negative) influence on the tint.
In some cases the tint shifted into green/yellow as reported in the Emisar D4S thread.
I did not see any typical signs (purple/green-colored reflection) for AR coating on my WK30 sample, too.
Thanks for waring me.
Does it have anything in common with the color of reflections you can see on the glass surface? Sometimes the coating is green, sometimes violet, pink, blue…
Would you recommend any alternative?
I don’t see even a hint of AR coating, which is fine with me.
Yeah, it discolors the beam, generally greenifies it and makes it yicky.
If you’ve got an Angry Blue™ light anyway, the extra green just makes it more aqua or whatever. Might not even be that bad. True neutral white would probably show it up more, definitely green-hued vs, well, neutral. Warm white would tend towards pus-yellow instead of rosy.
Sorry, I don’t have any clue which coating is best or which reflective coating has the least impact on the tint shift.
For those that swapped emitters is their three separate mcpcbs or just one? Just purchased one off amazon. I want to change the uv to sst-20 or sw45k.
Here you go:
Thanks! Do you think the uv is a standard 3535 footprint?
I was quite astonished he didn't RUN!
I ordered the Wurkkos W30 and it just arrived today.
I’m testing it out. Noticed some things. The UV isn’t 365nm (already mentioned above). I notice that it will not make certain ‘markings’ on our country’s currency glow, unlike when I use the Convoy S2+ with Nichia UV365 or Convoy S2 with LG UV365 LEDs.
Another thing is, I’m not sure if this has been pointed out in the earlier pages — it might be a bug:
- this occurs after going the alternating white+red strobe mode of the red light mode; what I think s a “bug” is that both the red and white LED will be lit up at the same time after following the sequence below)
1) from Off, double-click to operate Red light
2) double-click again to operate Strobes mode of Red light (flashing Red only)
3) single-click to advance to next strobe mode (alternate flashing Red + White)
4) now when the light is actually flashing the White LED, do a double-click
(what this does is go back to the regular Red light mode)
=> the bug is that, now in regular Red light mode, use single-click to advance to next higher Red brightness level;
when the Red is on High mode, the white LED will also be lit up (in Low brightness).
Normally, when in regular Red mode, single-click will advance the Red light brightness, but will not turn on the White LED.
But following the above sequence, it appears to trigger the Red + White LED being turned on at the same time
(the White LED becoming On while in Red light doesn’t seem to occur all the time, but it seems to get triggered more often when doing the ‘double-click’ while the flashlight is in Alternating Red+White and the light is actually flashing White at the time of the Double-click).
Anyone tried the above?
Tried it with my light, couldn’t get mine to do what you described.
me neither
Mine neither. sounds like yours has a resistance leak on the white led’s high mode switching 
oh, we will test it again , the sample in my hand white LED not shows when in red light mode.
[quote=MacLee]
It doesn’t always occur, but doing it a few times will trigger the white LED also lighting up with the Red LED (on High).
The trigger is: while the flashlight is in the “alternating Red + White strobe modes”, do a double-click while it is flashing white LED. This will go back to regular Red mode, but cycling the Red to High will also light up the White LED.
Mentioned above is “resistance leak”, just wondering is this easily fixable?
Got my WK30 today. Impressive little light, didn't know red had three levels and that it would throw so far and bright. Any idea what brand of battery is behind the wrapper?
No idea, but it seems pretty decent. My “5000mAH” cells (both) clocked in at 5380mAH or thereabouts on my Opus, which is pretty awesome. The light’s not all that high-strung, so you won’t be needing a 30A cell or anything, so it should do just fine.
Hey, I’m still tickled about ’em. 
Okay, I finally got these. Not bad at all. They’re crapping velcro and elastic all over the place, so they’re really adjustable, even the length of the flap! “Universal” is right. The only drawback is sheer bulk.
Lens-down, the bottom “cup” is a bit too tapered, so the light won’t slide down all the way, but lens-up, it bottoms out nicely. Like I said, even the flap-length is adjustable, just wedge your finger in the hole to separate the velcro, then slide the flap longer/shorter as you’d want it, then squeeze it together again. No belt-loop, but 2 velcro(!!) molle-type straps so you can attach it to a bag or whatnot. There’s also a hangy-loop up-top for maybe a D-ring or carabiner if you want, too.
And the ’30 fits into it (lens-up) with the switch and usb port almost perfectly above the edge of the material, as if made for it. Not bad at all.
I think I’ll still keep my SP32A on my bag, as it’s lower-profile and not nearly as bulky, but damn, if I wanted to, now I can hang my ’30 on it, too or instead.
And it’s got that Wiseau thing going on, too. Gotta love it…
Hey, for <4bux a pop, go for it.