Flashlight User Interface Cheatsheets

You want to have the main LED on all the time? Battery will run down fast. I’m not understanding your logic.

you misunderstood me, i’m sorry since English is not my native language, so it’s maybe hard for you to understand me

i have stock convoy s2+, it has 8*amc7135 driver, now i want to have an AUX leds under the TIR len( the tir len is install by me), the problem is the stock driver doesn’t support AUX leds, so right now i’m looking for firmware that support AUX leds. Something like Anduril Firmware, but changing mode through tail switch, not e-switch

the driver will be powered all the time, like E-switch driver. MCU will be in low power state so it won’t consume much energy

So useful, thank you.

Rear clicky drivers like the one in the S2 are designed to be controlled by removing power from the driver since there is no other input. The rear switch connects the battery to the driver.

The way the driver knows if the power has been removed for a second or a day is through an OTF or Off Time Capacitor. This keeps the driver MCU powered up very briefly (a few seconds). This allows it to measure the amount of time it was off.

Since the usual point of Aux Leds is to be On when the main Leds are Off, you would need to keep the rear switch in the On position while the main Leds are somehow turned Off.

This fundamental problem is why you never see Aux Leds on rear clicky lights. I certainly have never seen it.

This is why I asked you if you somehow found a way around this basic problem.

The only solution I can think of is a special UI that includes an “Main Led Off” as part of the brightness cycle. So you would blink the rear switch quickly to cycle through the modes such as: low, med, high, off/standby, low, med, etc…

I don’t know if such a UI exists. I would suggest you ask Toykeeper or Tom E if they have ever heard of such a thing. Also, would you even want a UI like this?

Hey, this is a great guide!

I have a Surefire 6P running a Dr. Jones H17F behind an XP-L2 on a Keeppower 16650 that’s one of my frontline lights. I’m also testing my newest concoction, a 17mm FET driver zener-modded running Guppydrv rev2 powering an XHP50 on two 17500’s in a Surefire M3. I’ve already referred to this page a dozen times. Thanks for putting this up.

Anyone know how to reset a d4v2?

I read somewhere that this will delete muggle mode and is what I would like to accomplish, I have some harbor freight flashlights to lend to muggles during camping trips, etc

I don’t have that light, but you can try disconnecting the tailcap (battery power), hold down the button and then retighten the tail cap. If you keep that button held down more than 3 seconds that should do a factory reset.

I wish I knew how to subscribe to a thread here without replying… but, THANKS FOR COLLECTING THIS!!

Time to go back to page one - I didn’t notice an SP36 / Narsil cheatsheet on my first pass.

The subscribe button is at the bottom of post #1.

(note: must be D4v2 with updated Anduril with factory reset with the unscrew tailcap, hold-down button, screw tailcap until it shows a flashing sequence;

I can't seem to do a factory reset with the "13H" method though (13 clicks, but hold down the last press) technique, probably it doesn't apply to the D4v2)

Wow thanks this is exactly what I wanted to find out

Anyone happen to have a cheet-sheet for Narsim 1.0 by any chance?

Been playing around with my ’micro, wanted to see if my old/original Q8 had momentary mode, and nope.

Blinked out the version, and it’s apparently 1.0, written by dinosaurs before The Cataclysm wiped ’em out (and their handwriting sucked anyway), so there seems to be no written record of 1.0 out there at all.

Plenty for 1.2 and even 1.3, but nothing that I found for the humble version 1.0.

Talk about going down the rabbit-hole…

Found this

which might be what I’m looking for. Anyone wants to add it to the list officially, have at it. Don’t wanna step on any toes. :laughing:

Hard not to with your feet! :laughing: :+1:

I never really played with all the little nuances of the UIs all that much, and having the ’micro made it kinda easy to do so… with a cheet-sheet in front of me. (Dunno how it’s “cheating”. but hey…)

Eg, I’m given to understand that there’s a difference between “floor” and “ceiling” as far as ramping, vs “moonlight” and “turbo”, respectively. Ceiling being 50, and turbo 100, at least in theory (can’t really tell on my ’micro; saw only green blobs in front of me with the Q8 after getting a bit too close).

But when setting moonlight to 1, the lowest, at first I wasn’t seeing any difference at all, whether set to 1 or to 7. But there’s a distinct fractional-second jump from lowlowlowlowlow to floor.

Hold the button just a bit too long and you go to floor (and keep holding and it starts ramping up, obviously); not long enough (registers as just a click, not click’n’hold) you go to last-memorised level. There’s a very short time window of holding/releasing the button to get to moonlight.

I was kinda hoping that setting moonlight would also lower floor to that level, but I guess not. Still, having it set to 1 and still turning on super-duper low is a nicety.

It would’ve been awesome to have momentary-mode on my Q8, but I’ll survive.

Dinosaurs? Ok, I am pretty old....

:laughing:

Q8 is only 3 years old! Man, the flashlight world moves fast. Lol

Oh, man... just what I was looking for. Many thanks!

Does that mean Biscotti exhibits the “Next Mode Memory” problem? It doesn’t restore the last mode used when the light was turned off.