ANDURIL USER MANUAL & LIST OF LIGHTS

I hope in the near future the built in USB C can be connected to computer for an easy config

why does the blink matter?
i would just as soon not have any of the blinks
i don;t care when it switches between 1 or 2 or 3 FETS

wle

Just a question of efficiency and tint. Efficiency goes down right after switching (but the tint might be improved).

Anyone know how to reset a d4v2?

I read somewhere that this will delete muggle mode and is what I would like to accomplish, I have some harbor freight flashlights to lend to muggles during camping trips, etc

Untwist tailcap to lockout mechanically. Press and hold button andwhile holding tighten tailcap. Still hold the button for about 3 seconds while the light blinking something. Then when it is ramping up it is done.

But that will not delete the muggle mode.

Thanks as for the muggle mode its cool for what it is so it can stay I have no choice lol

That’s because I keep sending new files to Lumintop. :wink:

I generally send new files periodically to every manufacturer using Anduril. Some update their drivers, some don’t. I think it mostly depends on how much old stock is waiting to be sold… like, if they still have 3000 drivers with old firmware, they generally won’t update it. But if it’s just a few left, the next batch is usually made with newer firmware.

Hopefully I’m not commenting on this too late and reviving the thread. I just got my first enthusiast light (FW3T) and I’m super impressed with the UI. I do have one question, however. When activating candle mode (click, click, hold) is the default setting for it to go until the user turns it off? If that is correct, then 3 clicks will make it thirty minutes with +30 minutes with each subsequent 3 clicks?

Default of candle is run until you turn it off or go to another mode. 3 clicks while in candle mode and the light will give you an acknowledge blink that adds 30 minutes and it’ll turn off by itself when timer is up. I’m not sure how many you can add, I’ve never tried more than once. ToyKeeper will know that part.

The candle timer can go up to about 255 “pseudo minutes”. The details don’t really matter much, but it uses an internal unit which is a bit longer than a minute… and it can represent something like 4.6 or 4.7 hours before overflowing, so it’ll let the user set a timer up to that long. If the current timer +30m is too long, it’ll refuse to add any more.

Anyway, TL;DR: candle timer can go up to about 4.5 hours.

If the timer isn’t set, it’ll go until the user turns it off or until low-voltage protection sends a warning. In the LVP scenario, it goes to a low steady mode, then proceeds through the usual repeated-step-down and turn-off it would do in a regular ramping mode.

Each time candle mode is started, the timer is reset to “none”. So if you set a timer and then cancel it by turning the light off, it won’t remember or resume next time… it’ll start from zero again.

Excellent. Thank you so much! You really did an amazing job on this UI. I always thought I just needed on/off and maybe high/low, but this has spoiled me!

One last question, I think. Is the low voltage cutoff adjustable? I generally like to keep my 18650’s above 3.3 volts if possible.

ToyKeeper - I love this UI. Thank you for your work.
Looking at the diagram, am I right in saying that if the light is off and you click and hold (1H) the brightness ramps up from floor to ceiling? And if you double click and hold (2H) the light ramps down from ceiling to floor? This is intuitive as a 2C gets you to max ramp from off - however I think for safety the ramping up from off (1H) should be swapped with the ramping down (2H). It would be far more likely that the button is depressed and held down while in a person’s pocket than being pressed twice in a row and held down.

Also in the diagram at the front of this thread in the Blinkies section I don’t understand how many clicks are needed to get from beacon to beacon cfg and tempcheck to thermal cfg. The dotted blue line means “other action” but it needs an indicator of how many times you click.

Also confused about the Ramp Cfg, Thermal Cfg, Beacon Cfg box. To get to Ramp cfg you click 4 times (has an arrow and “4 Clicks” in blue). Then below that it says Thermal Cfg and also has an arrow with “4 Clicks” in blue. Same for Beacon cfg. The “while on” box says 4C goes to ramp cfg but it is not clear why there is a “4 clicks” beside the thermal cfg and beacon cfg. Does that mean that while in Ramp Cfg you click 4 times to get to thermal cfg and then 4 more to get to beacon cfg?

Help! I somehow got it so when I’m in lockout mode, the the lights are flipped. Usually it’s moonlight, then slightly higher with two clicks and a hold. Now it’s opposite!

Edit: Turns out I had done something to the ramp mode. Now I’m trying to figure out how to configure the stepped ramp mode. How do I make it so that I have seven settings, with the bottom being not moonlight mode and the ceiling not turbo. Basically back to factory? I accidentally did one click at the first and second prompt, then no clicks at the third, setting it from moonlight to turbo. I thought I was configuring the smooth ramp…

For some versions of Anduril (maybe all?) this is the factory reset procedure:

Loosen the battery tube to disconnect power.
Press and hold the button.
Tighten the battery tube to connect power.
Keep holding the button.
The light should pulse while getting slowly brighter.
The light then bursts to its brightest mode, and fades quickly to black.
Let go of the button during the fade to black.

give it a try and see if it works for you.

The lockout momentary function uses the current ramp floor on the first press, and the other ramp floor on the second press. Then back to the current ramp floor for all other presses. So if your current ramp’s floor is higher than the other one, the brighter level goes first.

I’ve been considering changing this so it does the lowest one first instead of the current one first. However, this would make it less convenient for people who want the higher level first.

In any case, 3 clicks while on in a regular ramping mode should get it back. The idea is that, by default, the smooth ramp is configured for indoor use and the stepped ramp is configured for outdoor use. The lockout momentary function also changes its brightness to reflect this, so lockout is brighter when the light is in outdoor mode. But I’m not entirely sure that’s better than simply doing lowest first.

As for how to get it back to default settings, the easiest way is the factory reset function… if it’s new enough to have that. It’s pretty recent. If not, it depends on the individual model of light being configured. Different lights have different config settings. At a guess though, 20 clicks at the first prompt and 21 or 31 at the second prompt and then 7 at the third prompt. That should get the stepped ramp set to go from level 20 to 120 (or 130) in 7 steps.

It is adjustable if you build new firmware with a different LVP threshold, but otherwise no. To keep cells above 3.3V with stock firmware, you’d need to use the battery check mode once in a while to measure the voltage, then charge the batteries when they reach the desired level. I usually charge batteries when they get down to 3.3V or 3.4V, but I use battcheck to let me know when that is.

Yes, “hold” ramps up from the bottom, while “press, release, hold” ramps down from the top.

In very recent versions, I added an additional safety check so if the button remains held for too long at the highest level, it ramps back down and stays down.

I think you may have just answered your own questions.

Go to the mode you want to configure, then click 4 times to access the corresponding config menu.

That worked perfectly. Thank you very much!!! I’m to assume it is measured from 1-150 then?

Yes, the ramp internally has 150 brightness levels.

This is awesome! Thank you.

Ahh I understand now, but the diagram is still confusing. The blue dotted lines from tempcheck and beacon need to have a 4C. Everywhere else in the diagram there is a blue dotted line, the number of clicks is indicated, and they are not all the same. Sorry, it’s kind of hard to explain this stuff.