can we reflow CSLNM1.TG on a mcpcb which is designed for black flat ? is there any issues with thermal pad being cathode, since white flat has isolated thermal pad ?
I need to report that i’ve placed CSLPM1.TG 2mm in GT mini using L4P 20mm 3030MCPCB.
I had protected 18650 nearby so i throw it in and ran the sucker. After few reflector adjustments beam was ok.
And now cute part, finally found IMR 18650 and replaced the protected cell but now ramping to HI is much much brighter. And then double click for Turbo showed angry blue!
Was a bit surprised cause some modders are running it hard in GT mini and i have to use protected cell 8/
Didn’t meassure amps on the tail cause of lack of time but i was curious did anyone else also got the same results and at which amps?
I’m not surprised, the PM1 has an extremely low Vf, lower than anything else (see the OP of this thread) so it will pull every bit of current a battery can provide. You depend on resistances in the system (internal battery resitance, springs, ledwires, FET) to keep the current restrained.
Thx djozz. I was too lazy to read all the way up but initial look at the first posts revealed what you just said. Will have to use it with protected only which is not bad since they are picking up dust these days.
I dropped a PM1 in my GT Mini, but if I put a 30Q in it, it turns blue on Turbo.
You have to use a lower drain cell, to limit the current at about 8A.
It’s not ideal, a new regulated driver would be way better but hey it’s cheap
Adjusting firmware so it PWMs the FET should also work. Or adding some resistance.
Thx guys!
Well noted
Wow! how did you get the beam so tight?
Dammmnnn!! What kind of optics are you using in that thing? it cant be the stock reflector surely?
I have the same setup and it sure is the stock reflector. But it looks less like a laserbeam in real life.
likevvii’s version actually does look like a laser beam because it’s an aspheric lens
Hes thrown a real spanner in the works because i now cannot decide on using an L2 host or a Jax z1 i was sure the jax was going to be the better choice but now im on the fence again
I have both just do the Z1. Slightly smaller package, less modding and cheaper with already good lens.
The z1 looked like the perfect host for a CULNM1.TG… but i wasnt sure if the L2 had an advantage in heat sinking? (i think im just looking for a reason to need both)
The L2 has a pretty good shelf vs big brass pill of Z1. However, you know the L2 mod requires specific $37 lens from marinebeam and 3D printed parts.
The Z1 you only need I think 22mm driver and new LED and mcpcb.
Yeah, its got to be the way to go, what driver did you go for?
How does a White flat Z1 stand against something like acebeam w30?
White Flat Z1 = ~385kcd
The 4040 one might get you to 400kcd.
I had a driver I pulled from a Nightwatch flashlight that is around 4.85-5.0A linear driver, just a bunch of 7135’s. Something like this (I have no experience with this store or product):
I think my signature has a link to some posts about my Z1 build. In general, while it probably doesn’t have as high candela, it is more impressive than my MF02.
Edit: nope, but my post history will. I’m not on a computer right now or I’d find them myself for ya.
CSLNM1.TG in an Emisar D1S around sunrise with hanging fog.
pic!