FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Me too!

anyone seen that 18350 tube for this light? any word on when?

As much as I agree and believe the FW3X is soo easy to be modded, this may not be the best place to express this wish.

I previously took the same request directly to Neil and suggest those on BLF who want buttons band together and do the same.

Already emailed Neal about it, yet to hear anything about it.

Really wouldn’t be hard to achieve — A stencil and a bead blaster —- I personally want a biohazzard symbol on mine

I want one like this...

I just received my FW3C polished, Cree XPL Hi 3D and it does not work. It sure looks and feels nice though. I ordered it through Neal’s site.

I have read this entire thread.

I only get the flash when the battery initially makes contact. I have tried several different unprotected 18650s that are all at a little over 4 volts. They work fine in other lights.

It has a brass driver retaining ring and a black switch retaining ring.

I tried loosening the driver retaining ring to make sure the driver was centered. I also tried it without the ring installed.

The solder joints on the MCPCB look fine.

I held a battery to the head and completed the circuit with a piece of wire and still only got the initial flash.

Is there anything else I should try?

I sure hope I do not have to send it back to China.

I was going to order a FW3T with the same emitters, if I liked the tint of the XPL Hi 3D. I am now going to hold off until I get this straightened out.

I have not reached out to Neal yet. I will do that shortly.

take off the head and tail. You will see a circular copper contact point on each, wipe those points and the springs with a swab dipped in alcohol. Problem should be solved,

You are getting the initial flash when the battery makes contact. This means the driver is powered and the LED works.

But when you press the button nothing happens. The switch connection via the inner-tube isn’t working. Probably the tailcap isn’t on tight enough.

Try this:

  • Remove the head.
  • Partially unscrew the tailcap, then screw it together as tightly as you can.
  • insert battery
  • screw on head.

Also wipe both ends of the tube.
Remove the clip, sometimes the tail is not screwed all the way down
don’t worry, it will work. They all seem to do this

Thank you for the suggestions.

I had cleaned everything with alcohol and lubed the threads with Nyogel 760G when I first received it. I do this on all of my lights.

When it did not work, I also tried screwing it together really tight.

I just now cleaned everything with alcohol and concentrated on the contact points and springs. No lube. Really tight. Nothing.

I removed the clip and cleaned everything again. Nothing but the initial flash.

Frustrating.

I guess I will have to contact Neal.

So much for instant gratification.

The way it’s tighted matters. Loosen head, tighten tail nice and tight, then tighten head.

Thank you.

I made the tail really tight and then put the head on tight and still nothing.

I get so hopeful every time that this nice looking light will work.

I had a bit of a problem with the retainer ring in the head of my FW3C. I finally removed it and the light works consistently xlnt.
My prob was a bit diff as I had tried to remove it with an inappropriate tool. When I tried it afterwards there was flicker after the initial flicker. I may have scored the retainer and caused a burr?? Anyway, removing it doesn’t seem to affect its operation.

Thanks.

I had tried that previously. I just removed the retaining ring in the head again. Hopeful. Nothing.

Take the black ring off the tail and take out the switch (CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE NUB) and make sure all is aligned, I had a similar issue, the nub was sideways and not clicking the switch.
Check the brass ring in the head, in one of mine it was not installed properly and the board was moving around. I had to take it off and put it back on properly.
Make sure the driver board is centered. The contact ring should not be touching the brass ring and has to be aligned well enough to engage the inner tube.
Make sure to wipe off the unanodized parts of the inner ring, they need to make contact.
When you put the tail back on, do it carefully so everything stays aligned but leave the black ring off. I had to do that on one of mine, every time I tried to get it back on the switch stuff would get out of alignment, you don’t need the ring.

By chance are you using button top cells —-my newest FW3 won’t work with button tops

I meant to bring that up. Orbitronics are shorter and will work, the Samsung Q30 BT is a problem

Thank you very much! It works!

The unprotected cells that I was trying were Panasonic NCR18650A button tops. I tried several different ones and they all work fine in my various Zebralights.

I had salvaged some generic flat top 18650s from a bicycle light pack that had a bad cell. These work perfectly with my FW3C.

I like the tint and the UI.

I guess that I will now have to order some quality 18650 flat tops and an FW3T. And probably an FW3A while I am at it.

Wow, it was the batteries! Glad to hear the light is working fine!

Kudos to chops 728 for his insight.