The link is there, it’s just at the top of your post.
Nice work suggesting this! :+1:
Great news! I’m glad your new light is working. It’s very heartening when people remain in good spirits despite a frustrating issue.
Good work researching and trying the troubleshooting suggestions first, and posting your attempts and ideas when asking for help! :+1:
There aren’t any standards in place for button top lengths, or lithium cells in general, so we do have to take care what battery we use. I think the maximum battery length is 66mm. Button top cells can be hit or miss.
There is no good reason to use high drain cells (unless your trying to measure the highest output possible). These lights get hot really quick by design. If your buying new cells, it might be better to go with high capacity versions.
I tried to use a Samsung 30Q on one of my FW3’s and it pushed the tail spring so hard it moved the switch assembly out of position. Had to re-set it and use a different battery. The Orbitronics 20 AMP work fine, they are shorter.
How different were they? All button top?
My button top Samsung 30Q worked fine. This is what I mean by there not being standards. Our cells probably had different height button tops added by different companies. Whoever added your button top probably used a slightly taller button then the company that installed my button top. :confounded:
Or maybe it was squished down a bit from screwing it into something
Thank you again to everyone for all of your help.
I just ordered an FW3A in raw aluminum and an FW3T in polished. I am fascinated by shiny objects. Both will have the Cree XPL Hi 3D emitters. I also ordered three Samsung 35E cells.
I like the way the FW3T Ti-CU Hybrid looks.
I will have to Lego the copper and titanium components in various combinations to see how that looks. I am thinking a copper head and switch with a titanium body and bezel might be interesting.
I would also be nice if deep carry clips in titanium or copper were available.
A plethora of Trit slots in future versions would be greatly appreciated too.
I am waiting on my raw aluminum. Was supposed to be in this week but no notifications yet
They were all Panasonic NCR18650A button tops that I already had. I remembered the salvaged flat tops I had after reading the flat top only recommendation.
30Q flat top works fine in mine. Maybe they used different springs during production?
Scosgt was using button top 30Q.
Hi, I am trying to resolve a mystery that I can’t seem to figure out. I ordered a FW3A from Neal and mine came with a blue glow in the dark sheet that is cut out of the optic. This is not a typical plastic “Turboglow” gasket that Neal, Illumn, and others are selling. Instead, it’s just a thin GITD sheet with glow material only on the top part. Is this standard with FW3A’s and do they all come with it. I have not seen any mention of them in reviews or pictures online. Thank you.
No, they don't come with that.
Sounds like you got a freebie! 
Oh that is really strange then! Thank you for being so quick to reply.
Today I read somewhere on Facebook that somebody also got that GITD film for free (included in the package) which functionally the same as GITD gasket that he bought for USD 10.
I tried to search on FB again but no luck.
Hmm...
Maybe I was wrong then. 
Any news on the 18350 /18500 tubes?! 
According to the latest arrival at neal’s, the FW1A, “18350 tube,18500 tube,SS bezel will be available about at September 30th.”
Anyone know why Fritz15 and The Miller disappeared?