WTS/GB: NICHIA 219B NVSL219BT-V1 R9080 EMITTERS! sw45k, sw40, sw35, sw30

UPDATE: Added some new test results from today for a better comparison between various emitters and bins:

I compared my FW3A SST-20 FD2 to my modded FW3A SW40. The Nichia kicks ass with the tint, by far. It obviously has less throw, but I prefer the more floody beam anyway. It’s a triple after all… The SST-20’s will be replaced by SW35’s when they arrive.

Are you sure that is the SST-20 FA3 bin? How were you able to obtain those? Also FA3 shouldn’t be that green. That duv looks like it is FB4 tint.

I was hoping the SW30 would be rosier than the SST-20 3000K. I measured SST-20 3000K at –0.002 with carclo triple optics at high output modes. What kind of current were those DUV measurements taken at?

I traded a fellow member some of my 219b for the FA3. He said they were obtained direct from Luminus. Maybe it was a bad measurement but in person, I don’t see any green. Looks very nice actually.

These tests were done at the 2nd power level for the Lumintop Tool AA. They were measured about 12 inches from the head. Most measurement values are around 700 lux with the exception of the SST-20, which was closer to 1200 lux.

I have a few 3000K SST-20’s from a gb on BLF that are supposed to be HD2 bin, but at low to medium currents they are greener than the 3000K LH351B’s * that I also got from a gb on BLF. At high current, around 1.5A, they go rosy beautiful tint. I think the SW30’s will be a better overall tint performer just by the performance of the SW40 vs SST-20 FD2.

SST-20 tint varies tremendously with current. I have some HD2 bin and even at low levels, they are not as green as many of the other 3000K lights I tried. I don’t have any LH351B 3000K to compare with though. The HD2 is supposed to be rosier than the FD2 tint according to the chromacity chart.

Tool AA on 2nd mode should be very low current. In that case at higher modes, the tint for all of these should get rosier I assume unless it uses PWM.

I’ll re-test the SST-20 tonight at higher modes to see if it helps with the Duv. I agree that the SST-20s are very current dependent when it comes to tint. One thing is for sure, the flux on these are so much better than the 219b. Even if it was slightly green, I can see it being a trade off for more lumens. Like I said earlier, even at the 2nd mode level, my eyes don’t see any green despite what it says on paper. It looks very similar to the sw40. Will check the emitter again tonight.

those duv shots are outstanding!

now I know why I felt my sw40 9080 needed a lee 1/8 minus green

azhu, just curious what did you end up getting to be able to measure this?

I’ve never tried the minus green filters. Are you cheap to order?

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I figured out how to use my i1DisplayPro to measure the CCT and Duv values.

Ah cool, wasn’t sure if it would give you Duv so that’s good to hear. So you only cannot calculate CRI then I suppose.

Yeah I don’t know CRI and the specific R values. I’ll need a spectro for that.
At least I know the exact CCT and Duv values for my emitters and lights now.
The test also shows the lux it was recorded at so that’s pretty cool.

Thanks for sharing your data! And for the beamshots of numerous different emitters in the same host! Those are both highly appreciated information.

I see also the reference line your system draws has a dogleg at 5000K, where the typical reference changes from the black body locus to the daylight standard illuminants.

That’s not a big deal, especially since all these emitters are less than 5000K. However, if the reference used can’t be adjusted, then when showing data for emitters at or above 5000K, it will need to be kept in mind. As can be seen in the charts, the difference is somewhere around 0.0025 DUV.

Sweet! Another BLF member with the ability to take photometric measurements! I find DUV measuring more useful than CRI because usually LED manufacturers are pretty honest about the CRI rating but DUV is harder to guess. CCT and DUV combo is what I mainly look for in the test data.

Btw, the batch of sw40 that Clemence sold in his GB last year was very rosy. I wonder if that was the sw40k or if sw40k even exist.

the BBL is misleading without the other info anyways cause the scale of the plot changes. I would suggest he also put the actual CCT since the average person knows what that means and then you have everything you need to get x,y and plot it yourself with Osram Color Calculator, ex:

Input CCT and Duv to get x,y:

Input x,y (multiple if you wish):

yes
I sending you my notes and links to LEE filters, by PM

Retested the SST-20 tonight. So did I not get the FA3 bin? All the points do look like it would be under the FB4 or FC1 bin…

Probably not. You are testing the worst combo though. Low power, smo reflector and AR lens.

I bet if you remove lens and use a 14500 it will be less bad ( but still not FA3 )

All just a guess though since there’s only limited data for FA3

You may want to consider getting like a $5-15 adjustable buck power supply and cutting up an old DC power supply. This way you can test with a known current and easily drop other optics on top.

I use this: ICStation DC-DC Adjustable Buck Converter 5.3V-32V to 1.2V-32V 12A Voltage Regulator Step Down Module LCD Digital Voltmeter Ammeter with Shell https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYJ4L48/

I actually recently got a DC Power supply. Haven’t tested it out yet.
I also just remembered the lights were all tested with dc fix on. I bet that had something to do with it.

The SST-20 I tested was from a J4 flux bin. I also have J5 flux bin that I will test tomorrow probably.